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Woodshop Life Podcast
57 minutes | 4 days ago
Episode 63 - Warped Plywood, Mistakes As You Grow, 10" vs 12" Blades, & MUCH More!
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife Guy 1) Hi guys, huge fan of the podcast. I just have a question regarding sheet goods. I haven’t listened to every episode yet so I apologize if this was already covered. When I make cabinet carcasses I generally use some sort of store bought veneered plywood. I find it difficult finding plywood that is close to flat. It’s not as much of an issue when I break it down into smaller pieces, but when I make a larger cabinet it is very difficult to get square bc the plywood rarely straight. I put a face frame on it which Is square for the cabinets door/drawers, but often the carcass itself still has a bit of a visible curve in the panels. Any advice on his help improve this? -Timber Tables 2) Hey guys, love the show and appreciate how much you cover, unlike those other woodworking Podcasts 🙄. My question is about edge banding. Fastcap has a peel and stick edge banding (Fastedge). It’s obviously easier to apply than the iron-on banding, but is it as durable? Are there any downsides to this vs traditional edge banding?Thanks,ShannonNashville, TN Sean 1) Is there anything you look at differently when you buy slabs to make into boards vs just buying actual boards? I have a saw mill somewhat close that I have actually gotten good prices on slabs. I don't use live edges and cut them off. Thanks, Ryan 2) I thought of a good question that might help some of us beginning woodworkers: I know that everyone makes mistakes (except Guy), but what kinds of mistakes do you see yourself making fewer and fewer of as you became seasoned pros? In other words, are there certain kinds of mistakes that you should find yourself growing out of as you develop as a woodworker? -Adam Huy 1) Hello again! So I am going to be moving my shop to a new garage and I wanted to upgrade the flooring before I move my stuff in. It currently has a basic concrete floor with quite a few cracks. I was considering either using polyurea or epoxy, but wanted to get your insight and see what you guys currently use and also what you would upgrade to if you had the chance? Garage dog Woodworks 2) Hey guys! Thanks for the great podcast. I had a question about table-saw blade sizes. What are the pros and cons of 10 and 12 inch table saws? Is one better than the other? And if you could do it all over again would you choose a 12 inch saw as I know you all have 10 inch saws. -Jeff
65 minutes | 19 days ago
Episode 62 - Bowed Aprons, Cocobolo Blanks, How Did We All Meet?, & MUCH More!
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife Guy 1) Hey, Fellas! So in my last question, you recommended I keep an old but powerful Delta 15" planer. Good advice which I intend to follow. However, I'd like to ditch its steel mobile stand for something that offers more storage. The planer is approximately 400 lbs. so am I crazy for thinking I could build something out of milled 2x4 pine or douglas fir? I'd use all mortise and tenon construction and install heavy duty casters on the bottom for mobility. It would probably resemble Guy's mobile miter station but with a front and back and no flip top. I'd appreciate your advice! Joel 2) Today I need your help! I am planing to build a small corner table. The top has the shape of a quarter circle with about a 16" radius. To spice up the design (and challenge my woodworking skills) I want to put a drawer into the bowed apron. How do I go about cutting a precise and smooth opening for the drawer into this curved piece of wood? On a flat piece I would probably use a router template to clean up the rough cuts but I don't see how I could do this on a curved piece. Any ideas? The apron will be a bent lamination, about 2.5 - 3" high, with the opening something like 1 3/4" by 8" Jarmo from Germany Sean 1) If you explained it any of your previous episodes, I missed it. I'd love to know how the three of you hooked up and what led to the collaboration on the podcast. 2) Is it ok to make and sell a piece of furniture using somebody else’s plans. For example say I buy project plans from wood whisperer guild, am I able to build and sell it? Or should I ask for permission from the designer of the plans first? Garagedog Woodworks Links mentioned in podcast: https://thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/selling-wood-whisperer-designs-for-profit/ https://www.finewoodworking.com/2009/08/29/is-it-ok-to-sell-furniture-based-on-fww-articles Huy 1) Hey I have a question... I seem to be unintentionally creating a SPRING JOINT when I run my work pieces through my table saw. It’s every piece, and it’s nearly every time. It’s exaggerated on longer pieces. This is great for pieces that I’m actually gluing together but for others it’s a big pain to deal with. I’m not sure what it could be. I’m leaning towards it being a fence issue? I have a grizzly table saw with a standard fence. Any thoughts? Timberworks NY 2) I bought some ebony and cocobolo turning blanks for a really low price with the intention of using them for handles on small boxes. I’m assuming the wood has not been dried (still coated in wax). I’ve never really messed with green wood and I know it likes to warp and move as it dries. That said, with the pulls being a few inches long and maybe an ⅝” thick, would I have a cause for concern, or should I wait a couple years for it to completely dry? -Jacob
47 minutes | a month ago
Episode 61 - Favorite Cherry Finish, MFT/3 Hype, Salt With Your Glue?, & MUCH More!
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife Guy 1) I'm a part-time woodworker that does occasional commission work for a local distillery. Two weeks ago—after listening to several of your episodes discussing track saws and Guy's affinity for the MFT style table—I decided to purchase a TSC55 and MFT/3 for the shop; I wish I had done it sooner. The accuracy, setup, and ease of use of the MFT coupled with the dust collection of the TSC is a game changer. I want to get the most out of the MFT as far as work holding options and overall versatility, and I was curious if you have any recommendations on bench dogs? I've read about aluminum dogs (Qwas Dogs), stainless steel dogs (Perf Dogs), dogs with special track attachments, and even Woodpeckers sells a set of fancy red dogs with a wedge clamp system all in a nifty systainer. I typically work with 4/4 and 8/4 material, plywood (1/2" and 3/4"), and oak barrel staves. Is there a specific type of dog I should be looking at to get the most out of the MFT top and track system or am I overthinking this? Kind regards, Sean Fousheé (pronounced foo-shay) 2)Hey Guy, Huy, and Sean, Could you explain the difference (in terms of function and application) between dust collectors, dust extractors, and shop vacuums? Why are dust extractors so much more expensive than shop vacuums? At what point is it worth the investment to get a dust extractor over a shop vacuum, especially if you also have invested in a dust collector for your larger stationary tools? Thanks, and keep up the great work with the show! Rob Sean 1) Hey guys, love the podcast. I've been thinking of growing my skills to include hand planes as I have picked up quite a few from estate sales, most in good condition. Rust is a huge problem in my shop and I was curious how do you protect your hand planes? Any specific coating or routine you follow? Thanks for the great podcast! - Daniel 2) Hi guys...I'm making a Morris chair out of cherry. I'm ready to assemble, but before I do, I'm figuring out how to finish. I was listening to Guy speak about using a coat of garnet shellac and then a top coat of waterlox. Can you go into detail on this procedure, and any other favorite cherry wood finishing tips. Thanks so much. Dale from Muskego Huy 1)Very green to the craft I’ve built up my shop with a good stable of hand power tools, router table, job site saw, track saw etc. my shop is only partially insulated. I live in a humid area. Should I invest in getting it fully insulated and air tight before I invest in cast iron milling machines like bandsaw ,jointer, planer, etc Thanks Nathaniel 2) Do y'all ever apply salt to a glue joint? I've known about this trick for a few years but never used it. I've recently used it on a few shop projects and it worked surprisingly well. I was most pleased with the efficiency of the glue up because I did not encounter any slipping joints during clamping. Before introducing this into my standard glue up process, I want to know if the salt negatively effects the integrity of the glue and/or joint. Thanks for the great podcast! I've been a listener since episode 1 and I've enjoyed them all (even the ones that Guy is drinking heavily and cursing Laguna bandsaws.)
60 minutes | 2 months ago
Episode 60 - Your Own Designs, Link Drive Belt Hype!, Bed Construction, & MUCH More!
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife Guy 1) My question is: I am making a bed and I am contemplating the best way to attach the bed rails. I like the bed rail hangers/brackets because mortising and screwing them in should be simple. However, I want the bed to be tight and not squeak when the Mrs and I get busy. My other thought is to use bed bolts because I am thinking the bed will be much tighter, but lining up the bed bolt into the rail seems difficult because my bed rails will be 5/4 thick. Do any of you have experience making beds and what method of attaching the rails did you use. Mike 2) My 2nd ( serious) question relates to resawing, I can't resaw very straight even using a fence, I have watched plenty of YT videos and have seen different jigs from different manufacturers including the Magswitch fence that lets you pivot the workpiece. So...... to resaw should you be able to set up a fence and run the piece through getting a straight cut (as we would do with a TS) ? or is constant adjustment required ? Geoff Richards Sean 1) Hey guys love the podcast,this is exactly what everyday woodworkers wanna listen to in a podcast. Question is I just started woodworking 6 months ago I turned my 2 car garage into a full fledge wood shop. Acquired all the big milling machines and just about everything you can think of. As of now I only follow detailed plans from others designs. I can follow plans to a T but actually making my own designs/plans seems somewhat daunting. I have sketchup and have been trying to learn. For whatever reason it’s not coming easy. Do you think because I can’t design my own pieces I should find another hobby. Or do these things take time to eventually learn. I’ve only been woodworking for 6 months I’ve mainly done case work a few cabinets and a built in for my wife’s closet. - Nathan 2) Hey guys!!! Listening to episode 58 right now and had a question: for a small shop, what finishes would you keep on hand, ready to go? Stain? Shellac? Poly? Also, what other finish supplies do you keep on hand as well?? Thanks! -Justin Huy 1) Hey Guys, it’s Justin, with Liberty Craftsman. I really appreciate y’all answering my previous questions and now I’ve got some more for you. 1) when doing commission work, I tend to struggle with accurately picking a finish date, as the project inevitably gets delayed (generally on my end due to my full time job), so I have to talk with the customer and let them know what’s going on. I recently had a client ask for a refund, due to me delaying delivery by about 3 weeks. We had some personal family stuff happen that caused a significant delay in the project. So, long story short, do you think I should not give a date, but a range 8-10 weeks and wait until a certain point in the project to communicate a more accurate completion date? 2) Do y'all have any experience or thoughts on replacing a machine's V-belt with an adjustable link drive belt? I've recently purchased a used 17" drill press that has more vibration than I'd prefer. The pulleys appear to be aligned, so the next thing I would try is replacing the V-belts. Are link belts worth it, or are they just a gimmick?
61 minutes | 2 months ago
Episode 59 - Which Cordless Tools?, Drum Sander Preference, Outdoor Dust Collection, & MUCH More!
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife Guy 1) Hello, got a question for the show! Will wiping mineral spirits on wood before finishing, to get the dust completely off, mess with the finish being applied correctly? I have read some places that mineral spirits will not change anything, but on Rubio‘s website for example, they say mineral spirits can mess with the finish. Just not sure if they’re saying this so that you buy their wood cleaner instead. Thanks! Buffalo Custom Woodworking 2) So I'm interested in getting a drum sander. Most of its use will be for panel doors etc. One of the things that I really like is a quality piece of equipment that I'm really not going to have too many problems with. I've looked at the Laguna supermax, the jet, and the powermatic. What can you tell me as far as quality in these different models and what should I be considering or looking for? Is there another company I should consider? Thanks again for a great podcast. Marlan Sean 1) Hey guys, thanks for answering my last question about the MFT. I was wondering if you all could talk about the cordless tools you use in your shops. I wouldn't say I'm in the market for new stuff (been using Ridgid 18v for close to a decade), but I'm always curious to hear what other people prefer/use and why. Thanks for the great show! Cardinal Custom Woodworking 2) Do you think machine cutting joinery instead of doing it by hand (dovetails for example) makes the finished product less desirable to a client or the general public? I've been practicing my hand cutting of joinery for about a month now and I think I would enjoy other aspects of building much more but I don't want to lose potential customers by not having that aspect in my builds. I look forward to your feedback and keep up the great work. Thanks. Miller Huy 1) I just recently started listening to your podcast and I've already learned a lot. I've followed you on Instagram and have been really inspired by your work. I started a woodworking business this year and I'm constantly trying to set up my shop to be the most beneficial for my daily tasks. One of the things I'm trying to improve right now is my dust collection. I currently have the harbor freight dust collector that I have run to my larger tools like my table saw, bandsaw, jointer, and planer. I'm trying to cut down on the amount of dust that is in the air in my shop as much as I can. My question for you is this: Is there anything wrong with setting the dust collector completely outside of the shop in order to take one more step to keep dust out of the shop? And part of the reason I ask that question is because I actually live in the middle of woods with no neighbors around me to have dust blown into their yards or complain about the sound of the dust collector. I also wonder if this would eliminate the need for a filter. And I would also obviously cover the dust collector in some way to keep it from the elements. Thanks for all the help you guys provide on the podcast and keep up that good work! Heath 2) I recently got a spray system and am beginning to incorporate spray finishing to as many projects as possible. I am starting a new build of walnut record cabinet, and I am contemplating pre finishing. The finished piece will be about 60"x30", so it will be much easier to pre finish the panels before assembled. I am thinking of using conversion varnish for durability. My question is, should I prefinish the inside and outside of all of the panels? Or just the inside, and finish the outside once the whole cabinet is assembled? If I only finish one side, do I have to worry about warping within the few days until I glue it up and finish the other side? On the contrary, it seems it would take quite a bit longer to prefinish both sides at once, having to wait for a side to dry before you can flip it over for a coat on the other side? Id love to hear how you guys have tackled prefinishing a cabinet in the past! - Sean Moore
60 minutes | 2 months ago
Episode 58 - Choose Your Grain Wisely, Dowels?, Storing Sheet Goods, & MUCH More!
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife Guy 1) Hey guys! I know you all have CNC's in your shop. I am about to buy one and I have about $2500 to purchase one. I have thought about the shapeoko XXL or the shaper origin. I know you have experience with gantry style CNC machines, but what do you think of the shaper origin? Would any of you trade your gantry style CNC machines in for the shaper origin if you had the chance? Isaac 2)Hi fellas -- I'm a novice woodworker with a question about the use of dowel versus domino joinery: I'm trying to understand all the hate and derision that is thrown towards dowel joinery versus all the love and infatuation with domino joinery. It seems to me they are both loose tenon joinery and the only real difference is the shape of the loose tenon. So what makes the dowel such a "poor man's" joint and the domino an heirloom quality joint? If I use dowels with the same approximate surface area as a domino, won't I get the same strength and holding power? Is there something special about the rectangular shape of the domino versus the round shape of the dowel? Thank you! I love the podcast! David PS: my daughter wants to be a rocket propulsion engineer, so Huy, you rock! (Guy and Sean are pretty good, too) Sean 1) Hello Master Woodworkers, I appreciate all you do on the podcast and can't wait to listen to the next episode. I am getting ready make a bunch of small to medium size boxes as gifts for family out of walnut and maple. I don't have a spray setup and don't really have time to learn it this year. I am looking for a fast and reliable finish for the boxes, in a matte to semi-gloss. These will be 3x5 on the small side and 8 x 10 on the large. Thanks for all you do, and keep the podcast coming! - John 2) How to understand the grain and what to look for would be a great topic of conversation for the podcast for beginners like myself. Geoff Huy 1) Outside of my shop I would like to build a small shed for storing sheet goods. I live in northern Iowa where it can get pretty cold in the winter. is there any potential problems with storing sheet goods outside covered, dry and then bringing them in prior to using them letting the temperature come up to my shop temperature. Would the low humidity cause any harm to structure of the sheets. Marlan Mincks 2) Great podcast, guys! I appreciate all the advice you give. I am a fairly new woodworker and I’ve been building some furniture to start to sell. Nothing massive, trying to stick to smaller pieces because of experience and size of shop. I planned to find people in my area around Nashville TN who appreciate local handmade pieces, but my wife brought the question of what I do if a customer wanted me to ship them the finished product. So my question to you guys is how do I go about figuring that process out? And is it even worth it? I assume I would pass that shipping cost on to the customer. Would be getting into the custom crate building business then too? Thanks for your time! Matthew
58 minutes | 3 months ago
Episode 57 - Router Sleds, Air Cleaners, Which Domino, & MUCH More!
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife Guy 1) I am looking at getting a Festool domino machine. I was wondering which one you all use the most? They are a lot of money and I want to get both, but only one is in the budget currently. I am currently building a big green egg cart similar to Mark Spagnolo and he used both in his build. I mostly will be building small tables and small cabinets and am thinking of getting the 500 but was wondering what you all think. Thank you. David 2) Hey, Fellas! I wanted to get your advice on something. I inherited a Delta DC380 15" planer that has a newer brushless motor on it and straight knives for a cutter head. It's a beast, but it's a big piece of equipment for my shop which is just the size of a one-car-garage. I'm thinking about selling it and "downgrading" to a DeWalt DW735 with a helical head. Am I crazy? What might I end up sacrificing if I go with the DeWalt after working with the Delta for a few years now? My biggest concerns with keeping the Delta is potential upcoming maintenance (it's an older machine), overall size, and lack of storage in the industrial rolling base. -Joel Sean 1) Hi fellas. You answered my question a while back on dining chair design re: lower stretchers. That was very helpful. Thanks. I've prototyped a chair (I can email through a picture if that would help), and am now on to batching out the set in white oak. While I was doing the prototype, I pattern routed the back legs and found that I was getting a fair amount of tear out due to grain direction. So, I invested in a compression flush trim bit thinking that this would solve my problems. I'm finding that it isn't the magic solution that I thought it'd be. I'm still facing issues with the bit chewing into grain that would ordinarily be in the wrong direction. A little background information: I don't have a router table. I'm doing this handheld, taking light passes, and I've got the speed slowed way down on the router. I'm using a 2.25 hp router, which should be able to handle this kind of thing. Am I missing something? Do I need a router table for this to work? Should I reject technology altogether and live in the forest? 2) I listen to 2 podcasts. Yours is by far the better. Professional and informative while being personable. I inherited a 12/4 100” x 18” Norwegian pine slab from my 93 year old mentor Bert. Having been stored under his saw these past 30 years he wanted to see it used. Grow locally here in SE Minnesota, I estimated it was a sapling in about 1870 making it 2nd growth. It quickly became apparent neither 40 grit on a 4” hand drum sander nor No. 5 jack plane would work well, so I built an 8 foot x 2-1/2 foot router sled. Using my Bosch 1617 and a Whiteside 6220 planing bit I eliminated the twist and the bandsaw marks then ROS to 80/150/220, amber shellac and wiping varnish made using Minwax. Final thickness was 3”. You can find pics at @wilsoncellulosics. While acceptable for a fireplace lintel the resulting quality was good but not furniture grade. Have either you all or your colleagues done slab planing? I am open to tackling another slab sometime when the opportunity arises. Are third party slab planers worth the considerable cost (meaning furniture-grade results)? If so recommendations to consider? Bob Peterson Huy 1) Hello gentlemen. This question is for all three of you. I have a 2hp Shop Fox table saw and wanted to add on to it by upgrading the fence and possibly building things into the wings. Have some trouble deciding on what fence when I realized this is a trend for me making these types of improvements everywhere. So.....What are the best third party upgrades you’ve made to tools in your shop (excluding the obvious things like the Super Incra Miter Sled 9000). Maybe a two answer format - best made shop improvement vs. best purchased improvement. What the thing you added that made life so much better. Thank you boys, keep up the great work. Joey - Winter Wolf Woodworking 2) Hi guys, love the podcast! I’ve got a question about a ceiling mounted air filters. I have a small (200ish sqft) shop in the basement. I was looking at something like the RIKON 62-400 since it’s a small area. However if I step up to the 62-100, which is 2.5x the price, I can get carbon filters for it, it’s not an option on the smaller unit. My question is: With my shop being in the house is it worth being able to get carbon filters to help get rid of some of the fumes from finishes, or is the bigger unit just overkill in such a small shop? Im not spraying conversion varnish or anything like that, usually it’s wipe on finish on small boxes and things, if that makes a difference. Also the HVAC is in the corner of the shop, and the basement outside my shop door is a finished living area, which is why I want to put in air filtration. Thanks! Matt WoodWhisperer flattening workbench: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtkBZHLJyD0
64 minutes | 3 months ago
Episode 56 - Ripping Narrow Stock, Vacuum Hoses, Standard Board Width, & MUCH More!
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife Guy 1) I've been woodworking nearly 4 years and do it as a part time business. This year, business has really taken off and I'm getting several large commissions. Because of this, I finally pulled the trigger on a Fuji Q5 Platinum HVLP. I figured if I was gonna spray... go all the way. My question for you gentlemen: I am convinced that Conversion Varnish is a very high quality finish I would like to use; do you all have any that you have used any loved? Any that you hate? Since many are water-based, should I spray shellac first to pop the grain? Thank you! Nathan 2) Hey Guys. Table saw technique question for you: when ripping narrow stock from a wider board do you prefer the narrow rip against the fence (let’s say it’s a 2” rip for discussion purposes) when ripping down a wide board or do you prefer to keep the wide board between the fence and the blade and use a stop block or a thin rip block and constantly move the fence? Assuming the thin rip against the fence is more accurate but are either techniques safer? Ben Sean 1) Hey I love your guys show. You guys are lucky to have Guy on your staff. Every act needs a straight man. He's a good one. LOL so my question is this. In making tabletops is there a standard width of board you prefer. That is, if you have to cut down something wider you typically go for a 8in wide board, 6 in, 12 in. board? - Marlan 2) I’m probably going to get one of the Rigid oscillating belt and spindle sanders that everyone seems to like a lot. But I’ve also had my eye on a 12 inch disc sander. Mainly now I will be using them to sand to lines on curves cut with a bandsaw. Wondering what I would be able to to do in addition to that if I had the disc sander, or whether it’s overkill to have both. Thanks, and don’t let Guy answer my question first :) Just kidding — you’re great, Guy! - Adam Huy 1) Can you share any info or help for vacuum hoses? How many sizes are there? I have 7 different types of shop vacs ( some for the shop, some for job sites and one for water) and it seems like every one has a different size hose. I have reducers and tons of other fittings, but it seems like half the time I am taping them to the tool I am using. Is this a common problem? I also have 2 portable dust Collectors. I thought about painting each size a different color and then just match them up - Tomakazi 2) I picked up a Festool TS55 last fall, and have been slowly getting more familiar with it. I'm working towards getting an MFT style top for an outfeed table, and came across an older (2013?) video on Guy's YT channel showing a setup using an Incra fence with stops on an MFT outfeed table. I'm curious if you still use that sort of setup, and if you'd go with the same method for attaching the fence today vs. something like the FenceDogs from BenchDogs.uk or PrecisionDogs.us (not released yet). Any discussion on using a track saw on an MFT type table for cross cuts, with stops, etc. would be welcome. -Monte
54 minutes | 4 months ago
Episode 55 - Gloss before Satin?, Trusting Miter Saws, Table Saw Fence Decisions, & MUCH More!
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife Guy 1) I've been building small furniture projects (Shaker tables, end tables, walnut table, lounge chairs) in my hobby shop using a skill saw or a hand saw when a bandsaw has been called for. My furniture projects are getting more complicated (a dresser, more lounge chairs) and I'm thinking it is time to get a bandsaw. But which one? I don't see me doing much resawing, although I don't want to completely foreclose that possibility. I've thought about the following options: Jet 14 inch deluxe pro (1.25 hp, $1000), Grizzly GO555LX 14 inch (1 hp, $750), and Rikon table top deluxe 10 inch (0.5 hp, $440). I note that Lowe's also has a Porter Cable 13 inch and a Delta 13 inch, but at their price point I think I'd be better off with the Grizzly. What are your thoughts? Many thanks. ...Tom 2) Hey fellas, big fan of the show. Really enjoy the “specificity” you bring to the craft. Question: you guys talk about not trusting your mitre saws for accurate cross cuts (kapex excluded). So I assume your trusted method is with a table saw. How do you manage getting accurate cuts on large pieces. I know trying to shave a 1/8” off of the end of a 8ft x 6 x 4/4 piece of lumber is not easily done with a mitre jig or a sled on a table saw. How do you get that perfect 90 on something other than a mitre saw on large and long stock? P.S. I don’t trust my mitre saw either. -Zach Sean 1) I really enjoy the podcast and I always learn a lot listening to your show. My question is about finishing. I have been noticing that several woodworkers that I follow apply a glossy clear coat for the first few layers and then they will finish with a semi-gloss clear coat. What is the purpose of starting with a "shinier" coat and then finish with a "less" shiny coat? Thanks in advance...Josh 2) Love the show, I have heard throughout several episodes of each of you stocking up on hundreds of board feet of lumber for potential future projects. Is there a specific dimension, specifically thickness and length that you typically look for? I’m assuming that in order to achieve a specific width, you can always glue boards together, but for posts or say table legs, is this what you do as well? Or for those specific projects do you just custom order a thicker stock in order to get the desired thickness. Hope my question makes any sense, apologize if it is basic. Keep the episodes coming!! Christopher Huy 1) I am a retired rocket scientist who now obsesses over furniture rather than missiles which means I take precision to meaningless extremes. I am replacing my 1977 Craftsman with a Powermatic 64B bought sight unseen. I have a Vega 50” fence which I like quite a bit. The Craftsman will be donated to Habitat. Which of the two fences should I send along to Habitat or are they just a horse apiece? My skill level is intermediate. If at all helpful the items I make are cabinets and tables used either at home or donated for charity auctions. The blade is a WW2, Bench Dog router table for the left wing. bob 2) if I got one of those EXPENSIVE Forest Woodworker II combination blades (the modified one with a flat bottom cut), would I fall out of love with blade changes? Are they really that much better that I wouldn't feel the need to change that I do now? I much prefer the cuts I'm getting now with the specific grinds compared to combination blades I've used in the past (the better quality "home center" brands). Is there a time, even with those expensive combination blades, that you all go back to a specifically rip or crosscut blade? Thanks for any input! Peter
51 minutes | 4 months ago
Episode 54 - Belt Sanders?,Outfitting A Shop, Storing Lumber In A Shed, & MUCH More!
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife Guy 1) I’m writing about a project where we are making a table and using white oak for the first time. While most boards looked great throughout the milling process, we found that a few board exposed a lot of very small short cracks or voids along the “rays”. I’ve seen this a lot working with heart pine which i have epoxied. How common is this and how do you deal with. Thanks, Mike @ Sibley Manor Woodworks 2) Greetings, love the show. How do each of you feel about hand held belt sanders? (3"X 21" for example). Some fine woodworkers swear by them for projects such as table tops, while others won't even touch them for the hatred of the uneven marks they can leave behind, and relegate them to rough construction only. From my experience I'm in the latter category, although I admit I may not be using the machine properly/correct technique. Are there any special tips or 'insider' knowledge on how to avoid the dips/valleys they leave behind? Or should I go ahead and list my belt sander on Craigslist and be done with it? MLBETT Wood Works Sean 1)Hey Guy(s), Your podcast is great. Thanks for all the help. I am in the process of building a detached garage. Part of it is going to be a shop area. It’s not going to be a big shop area by any means (15’x25’). I’m planning on making some cabinets and furniture for our future house (kitchen cabinets, vanities, tables, bar area). Currently, I borrow other friends and family members equipment when doing project due to my limited space in town. My question is, what equipment do you recommend for my shop? I realize you need more information so I’ll explain what I have and a budget. I’m looking to spend around $2000-$2,500. I don’t have many tools but here is what I have - 10” compound sliding miter saw from Harbor Freight that cuts a little off, cordless drills, circular saw with clamp edge guide, jig saw, and a 1/4” trim router. These tools got me by for small projects but I think it’s time to upgrade. Thanks for the help! Casey 2) Hey guys I love the podcast and what you’re doing to help the woodworking community. About two years ago I finished my walnut dinning room table. It was my first major project in years since my high school shop days. I learned a lot doing it. But as always made mistakes. I made my table using breadboard ends and I used third coast craftsman’s video as inspiration for the construction of my breadboard ends. After I assembled my table I noticed small gaps between my top and breadboard ends. I was wondering if you could think of any ideas to fix those gaps. I appreciate the time. Thanks guys. - Trent Huy 1) Hey guys - I am in the process of building a shed (my new workshop). It's going to be 12x16. I will have full 8ft walls and a 7x5 steel rollup door (like the ones you see at storage units) and it will be insulated however most likely not climate controlled 24/7. My main question is about lumber storage. since it won't be climate controlled 24/7 should I be storing lumber in the shop or think about storing it elsewhere. Typically I will only have on hand what I need for the current project or 2. Any suggestions on maximizing storage in this small space? John 2) I recently bought some CA glue and activator, as I was reading the label it said that it needed to be kept in a cool place and even suggested storing it in the fridge. Then I remembered that I heard that PVA glue can go bad if left in a place that is to hot. Where do you guys store your adhesives? -Rick
49 minutes | 5 months ago
Episode 53 - Three-Phase, Kapex Ergonomics, Ash Hard Enough For Workbench?, and MUCH More!
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife Guy 1) Next question: how much time do you spend working on workflow and process in the shop? I’m a night and weekend woodworker who is taking commission orders now and want to ensure I maximize my time in the shop to be the most effective. What are some tips tricks or source material you might suggest? Maybe Guy can lend an answer to this, as he is working in a full time production shop. Also, just down the road from you Guy, in Noblesville. Thanks in advance! -Thelibertycraftsman 2) Hi Guy, love the podcast. I have a question about the Festool Kapex. I’m about to purchase a new miter saw and am between the Kapex or the Bosch glider. The only concern I have are some of the comments about the handle shape on the Kapex. Since you use it I’d like your opinion. It is expensive and want to be sure it’s worth it. I would really like a precision miter saw. Thanks you all and love the show. Anthony Sean 1) I have the opportunity to get my hands on some ash trees that will be felled due to the emerald ash borer. I will have these trees slabbed and kiln dried by a local sawmill. I am fairly new to woodworking and I am primarily a hand tool user. My question for you guys is what are your thoughts on using ash to build either a Roubo style workbench. Is ash dense/heavy enough to be used as workbench. Any feedback is greatly appreciated. Carlos @alberto_woodworks 2) Have you ever heard of anyone hiring someone for a weekend to come to your house and help make adjustments on multiple machines? My tablesaw, bandsaw, jointer and planer all work but could benefit from someone with experience double checking things and making minor adjustments. I know that every machine has its own quirks so finding someone that knows my exact models would be difficult but I feel as though someone with more experience could make a big impact in a short period of time. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. - Evan Huy 1) Hey guys my name is Anthony S. I am a novice woodworker with a focus on medieval furniture for the house and camp as my wife and I are part of a living history group. We are looking for our first house. I would like to have one area of the house for a workshop. I use quite a few power tools in my work now and will hope to get a tablesaw and drill press after the house. I know I should be concerned with ventilation and dust collection, which will be determined by where in the house the workshop is, but I am hoping for it to be in the garage. I was wondering what else should we be looking for in a workshop space when house hunting. 2) I have a chance to buy a second hand Felder AF22 dust extractor. It is a 2.2kw 3HP machine but it has a three phase motor in it (I’m in the UK). Putting in three phase power is prohibitively expensive. Do you have any experience of running a three phase machine with a VFD (preferably an inexpensive Chinese one) and can I use a remote control switch to activate it from my table saw. Many thanks, Mark Information mentioned in the podcast from Huy: Acogedor AC 220V 2.2KW VFD Motor Inverter Speed Controller,Variable Frequency Drive with Wireless Remote Control
52 minutes | 5 months ago
Episode 52 – Holding Small Parts, Planer Sled Designs,Staining Plywood vs Solid Wood, & MUCH More!
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife Guys 1) I had a question for you about staining frame and panel doors. A few months back I made a few cabinets that I wanted to match reasonably well with existing kitchen cabinets (made from birch). Everything was going well but when I came to staining the wood I ran into issues. I had tested a few stains on a piece of the birch I was using for the face-frames/rails-stiles and found Varithane premium fast dry interior wood stain (color: kona) had a close enough color to the existing cabinets that the difference should't be noticed as the cabinets were going in different rooms. After the wipe on, let sit for a few minutes, and wipe off process I discovered that the panels of the doors were significantly darker than the rails and stiles. I tried a second application of stain to just the frame to try to darken them to even out the coloring but that didn't do much. The wood for the rails and styles was solid birch that I ran through a thickness plainer, assembled, ran through a drum sander, and then sanded with a random orbit sander to 220. The panels were 6mm baltic birch that I sanded with a random orbit sander to 220. I should also mention that I got the wood from a local reputable hardwood dealer, not from a home center. I also used an air compressor to blow of any trapped dust from the doors before staining. What did I do wrong? I would've been happy if the whole door was either the lighter color, or the darker color, but with the light frame and the dark panel, it just doesn't look right. The only thing that makes sense to me is that the surface structure of the top veneer on the birch plywood was more porous and thus able to absorb more stain. But what do pros do in order to get the same color on solid wood and also veneered wood? Thanks again for the great podcast. Cheers, Gavin 2) I’ve been woodworking for about 2 years now and in that time I’ve been primarily using white oak (with occasional use of Ash, Hard Maple & Walnut), but I’m at a loss when it comes to adding finish; I’m simply unsure where to start, so I don’t use any. So could you help me, please? I do understand that after listening to your podcast from the beginning, that this subject is a bit of a mine field and you’ve covered it numerous times for other listeners, but for someone starting out who would like to use low VOC finishes (to protect my asthmatic Wife), what would you recommend starting with, please? Thanks in advance and keep up the great work. Sean 1) I’m building a planer sled for my Dewalt 735 to do face jointing. Do I attach the ‘stop’/‘fence’ part to the leading or trailing edge? I’ve seen it done both ways on YouTube. What in the world is the correct way? Thanks in advance and I’m a big fan of the podcast and all of your work! Thanks again, Jason Ruffino SkinnyDogShop 2) Recently built a router table/cabinet because my wife doesn’t know enough about woodworking to stop me from adding to my shop, for now at least. The carcass came together nicely, all 3/4” birch ply with pocket screws (shop furniture so it’s not blasphemy). It was all square and seemed right until the drawers came into play. In total there are 5 drawers - 2 over/under on the bottom left, 1 bigger bottom right, and one on each side of where the router/lift goes. The drawers themselves seem to measure square, unless my public school math is failing me! However some of the drawers seem to be harder to pull in and out. I’m using the full extension drawer slides from Home Depot. Also, when the drawer fronts are attached, they seem to be a little wonky when spaced correctly and some won’t close flush. -Joey Huy 1) Hi woodshop guys. I have a question about case construction. Ive started building my shop with mobile carts, one for my saw/mitre saw/ router etc. I recently started using pocket holes screws since they are bang around shop carts and i wanted to make them as quickly as possible. My question is what is the best construction bottom and top sandwiched between side panels? Or bottom and tops sitting on top of side panels leaving edge exposed. I add a strong back on each case. Ive seen cases made both ways, so I wonder what you guys think. - Bigsquidy 2) Got a question for your awesome podcast: how do you hold small parts when using a plough plane to make the groove for a drawer bottom? Aaron
52 minutes | 6 months ago
Episode 51 - Dust Collectors, When To Pull The Trigger, Breaking Bandsaw Blades, & MUCH More!
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife Guy 1)When is the right time to pull the trigger? I'm currently using an old Grizzly 6" jointer that works fine but limits me in terms of both width and length of stock. What measurements or guidelines do you all use to determine when it's time to upgrade your shop equipment? Joel 2) Right now I've really been trying to take time to learn and be comfortable with the foundational skills; practicing cuts and joinery. Do you have any tips on how to make more accurate angled cuts? For example, I started just making and octagon shaped frame this weekend. Getting all angles and lengths to perfectly match took way too many attempts 🤦♂️. Is this something you prefer a miter saw or table saw for? Any tools or accessories you suggest using that can be used to double check your saw blades are at the proper angle? Etc. Right now I have a cheap miter saw and a dewalt jobsite table saw. I know the tools aren't the best, but I'm sure there are some things I could start doing and making into habits to get better as I start into this new hobby! Thanks Brandon Sean 1) Hey guys, could you recommend a mobile (2 stage) dust collection system for a hobbyist woodworker? I’m not looking to wall mount as I’m both, in a small space, and not in my “forever” shop. Perhaps DIY (where to start?) or from any brands is suitable. I don’t really know where to begin. Currently run a jobsite table saw, and looking to add a jointer and planer soon. 4” intake is preferred. Thanks! RJ 2) Questions for the podcast: is the Festool Domino worth it? Context: building a bar and stools out of 8/4 ash and need something to quickly join the legs of the stools together, as well as the bar and legs. I originally thought dowels or router out for loose mortise and tenon, but time is money, literally, as this is a project for a client. Should I spend the $1000+ for the domino, and save time, which allows me to get other client projects done (could use the domino on some of those projects too) or, save the $1000k, do it with dowels or a router and then spend the $1000+ on a delta tablesaw and a dewalt 735x planer? Planer would need to be on sale for the numbers to line up (bad at math!). I currently have a 1/2 hp craftsman table saw with upgraded fence. Thoughts? Thanks! Love the podcast! Thelibertycraftsman Huy 1)Thanks for the time you invest in the podcast. I have been woodworking a long time but I am still learning. I do not make furniture but I still pick up lots of tips from you three. I am new to the bandsaw. I have a Laguna 14 Twelve. I mainly resaw logs for bowl blanks, since I do a lot of turning. I have been using a Laguna Proforce 3/4" 3 tpi. The blade broke though it is only a couple months old and I have only milled about 3 dozen blanks. What are the causes for such a blade to break? I would appreciate any insight, so as to avoid breaking the new blade. Thanks. -Mark 2)The talk about bringing all sorts of lumber into your shop, like from a pile outdoors under a tin cover, has me wondering about contamination. Basically, were talking about a biodegradable material here, which starts growing microbial life on, in, and off it as soon as the tree dies. So is there ever any danger of bringing wood into your storage which infects your entire stock? Relatedly, should we never machine any rotting material because that would make the fungus etc airborne and infect the whole shop? -Warren
59 minutes | 6 months ago
Episode 50 - Resaw Advice, Pricing Your Work, Waterfall Miter Reinforcement, & MUCH More!
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife Sean 1) What method do you guys use for waterfall joints (besides domino) and are biscuits and glue strong enough? Nick 2) I picked up 4 slabs of white oak that measure about 10 ft by 15” wide and 2 1/4” thick. I set up a router sled leveled everything on saw horses and as it turns out a couple of the slabs have a twist of about an 1”. Or a bow of about an 1” at either end. I wanted to keep the slabs as thick as possible and I don’t think a 1” top would look right. I ripped one down to about 12” to try to reduce the twist and route off a small amount but it still has a fair amount of twist and would require a lot of material to be removed. How would you handle these slabs? Flatten one side with the router sled and leave the bottom slightly out to keep the thickness. Rip them down to smaller widths that I could handle on my 6” jointer, in hopes to keep the thickness at 1.5”. BTW this will be a PITA but could be done with roller stands/roller conveyers. Screw it and leave the twist/bow smooth out what I can with a power planer and go with it. I don’t have access to a large shop with a belt sander. Thanks Jesse Guy 1) Hi guys! Been listening since the beginning and love the show, but I’m still a beginner and recently got a bandsaw (Rikon 10-326, brand new 3/4” Timberwolf resaw blade) which I’m trying to use for resawing. A friend gave me a bunch of purpleheart to resaw for him, and ... it didn’t go well. So my questions: Do you prefer to resaw using a “point fence” or just the bandsaw’s normal fence? The normal fence gave me an awful lot of drift with the purpleheart. Is it better to keep the piece you’re resawing off (the piece with the thickness you want) next to the fence or on the side of the blade without the fence? The former seems preferable for repeatable cuts, but it seems like you quickly lose a reference surface on the third cut? Is it possible that I had so much trouble because I was resawing a hard wood like purpleheart and dulled my blade really quickly? Or is resawing a lot more fussy than you all make it look on YouTube? :) Thank you, and for what it’s worth, I’ve followed the Snodgrass advice on setting up the guides and I’m pretty sure I got that right. - Adam 2) Guy, as I've improved as a woodworker, I'm getting more requests for building custom furniture, or recreating a design someone has seen online. This means I need to get serious about cost. You guys have discussed cost of various projects in a previous episode, which was helpful, but still vague enough to leave me scratching my head at times. I recognize that you don't want to tell the podcast how much you might make on a project—I get it. So, I'm going to list a project here (not one I'm currently making), hoping to hear you think through materials, time, etc. As a professional, what would you charge for this piece? What should an amateur charge for this piece?: - Project: Round breakfast table - Wood: solid cherry - Size: 42" diameter, 1" thickness - Base: something like what Andy Rawls made here, just not as beefy: https://www.instagram.com/p/Bg9tf4_jyRr/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link - Joinery for the base would utilize the Festool Domino - I live in SE Texas, and rough cherry is around $5 bd. Ft. Josh Huy 1) Hey guys...I am making a Morris chair out of cherry. Being a novice woodworker, this is my first substantial project. I'm having problems with snipe with my delta 22-555 13" planer. I keep adjusting the infeed and outfeed tables , but still getting the darn snipe. Any suggestions? Also, how much thicker should pieces of wood be, to obtain a desired thickness? https://woodgears.ca/jointer/planer_snipe.html Also, the arms of the chair are a gentle bent lamination. I built a bending form and wondering if you can go through the process, from resawing (what thickness), to assembly, clamping, what glue you use, etc. Final thickness of the arm is inch and an eighth thick. Keep up the good work. Dale from Muskego, Wi.
52 minutes | 7 months ago
Episode 49 - Shopsmith?, Our Most Useless Purchases, Left vs. Right Tilt, & MUCH More!
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife Guy 1) I've recently upgraded/downgraded from a Delta 3 phase 5hp unisaw right tilt (mucho power, not much safety) to a Sawstop 3hp left tilt (less power- more safety ). Is there any difference in approaching cuts for the left vs. right tilt? My crosscut sled has to be remade, I have to rework the mitre bar on my Delta (Buick sized) tenoning jig, etc. In the past, I've used the mitre bar on the left side for crosscutting -so the blade tilts away from the support fence. Do I start using it on the right side of the blade so it tilts away from the support fence? Eric 2) Since I'm planning to soon purchase some of these tools I would like your thoughts/recommendations for purchasing all Incra, all Woodpecker or a mix of both. I would also like to know which five or six measuring devices you would recommend if it were for your own shop as I'm not exactly sure what I need. I realize this may not be a fair ask given that Incra and/or Woodpecker are sponsors for some or all of you. Jack Sean 1) I am gluing up 3 boards, each board being 1” thick x 8’long x 6” wide. I do not have a flat surface that big to do a glue up on. Do you have any recommendations on how to ensure a flat glue up? Nick 2) What’s the most useless thing you’ve bought for your shop? I’m not even going to try to explain this one. You know you bought something that you haven’t touched since you bought it. Guy.... you’re old... you know you have things you’ve bought for that one job and didn’t even use it then. What is it? Brent Jarvis Huy 1) For everyone: It seems that all three of you work in your garage. What are your best storage saving tips? Josh 2) Hi guys. I really appreciate everything you guys have put out. I’m a beginner to wood working. Been doing this about 4 years. I have a to. Of questions that I’d love to get your perspective on. I have a shop space that is 24 x 30. When I first started woods working I was out of a garage 1/4 of the size on was very intrigued by the Shopsmith. What are your thoughts on a 5 or 7 in one machine? I really enjoy the option for a lathe. And a quick flip to a drill press. - Kyle
54 minutes | 7 months ago
Episode 48 - Paint The Drawers?, 1.5hp or 3hp, Resawing help, & MUCH More!
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife Guy 1) Hey guys. Question on horsepower for table saws. I’m slowly moving toward upgrading my table saw (I won’t mention the brand so Guy won’t have a reason to make fun of me but let’s just say I’m looking forward to not dying). I currently have a 1.5 hp older delta contractor saw. My question to you is what hp are your saws and if there is a major difference between 1.5 and 3 hp? I don’t work with a ton of 8/4 or bigger stock so I wouldn’t be putting thick stuff through. Thanks for any insight! Ben 2) First off just wanted to say I love the show! You are all talented and experienced woodworkers but all offer different viewpoints on how you like to get things done. My question is about table saw upgrades. I’ve had a Ridgid R4512 table saw for about 2 years now. I enjoy it but I’m wondering about upgrades. I’m specifically thinking about dust collection and the fence. I know I want to get a zero clearance fence but also wondering about over arm dust collection? Would it be worth it for this saw? Any aftermarket over arm set ups you guys would recommend or have experience with? The other upgrade I’ve considered is a fence. I’ve found that at times I feel the fence on this saw might be a little inaccurate and it doesn’t have a lot of adjustments. Do you feel any of the aftermarket fence systems would be good for this saw? Any recommendations? Or would you recommend possibly saving money to just get a better saw in the future if you felt like the upgrades weren’t worth making to this saw. Thanks for the time. Again, love the show. Brian Bingham Sean 1) I've seen a few people online build jointer sleds to edge joint and flatten boards. Can I actually get decent results out of a jointer sled in most cases? I assume using a jointer sled for processing a large amount of lumber would be a hassle compared to using a floor standing jointer, but what are the other limitations to using a jointer sled that I am not considering? Brock 2) Still loving the show. I wrote in once before and you sold me on shellac finish for small boxes, and you made me a believer. I do have a new question, I'm building a dresser for my daughter and I'm not sure how to finish the job. The main carcass and drawers are mostly plywood with oak edge banding. I made the base out of oak and the drawer fronts will also be oak which I plan to stain to let the grain show through. Do you guys normally finish the inside of the drawers in a dresser? If so, what do you use? Also, I was going to paint the carcass(it's plywood, don't freak out), so I'm wondering if you have any tips on how to get that perfect painted finish on the carcass? I don't have a sprayer, and the budget is tight, so I won't be buying a fuji anytime soon, but any other tips are much appreciated! Thanks, Scott Huy 1) Love the podcast. Thanks for everything that you put into it. I recently resawed some 5/4 walnut, about 32" long, for some drawer faces (shop furniture). My plan was to resaw this and then glue up a panel to have continuous grain down the three drawers. The walnut had been in my shop for a few months and I got it from a reliable source, so I was pretty comfortable with the moisture, although I don't have a moisture meter. I had milled a face and an edge square, but as I was resawing it, the two pieces bowed significantly, to the point that they would require another round of milling, and getting 3/8" to 1/2" final thickness was not possible. Did I do something wrong, or is that to be expected when resawing something to that thickness? Chad 2) I am using a 3/8" diameter upcut spiral bit with a 1/2" diameter shank from Whiteside to make 1 1/8" deep mortises in some cherry. Whiteside says the bit is good for 1 1/4" deep. I am using the bit in the Porter Cable 690LR fixed base router. My questions: How deep a cut is recommended per pass? Is there any criteria out there for depth of cut? Dave
62 minutes | 7 months ago
Episode 47 -Injury Prone?, MFT Uses, Buying The Right Tool For The Job, & MUCH More!
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife Guy 1) Hey guys, I have been wanting to switch over to water based spray finishes for awhile, since for the foreseeable future my shop will remain connected to the house. I either use a conversion varnish or danish oil then wax. Doing oil and wax is a great look but too time consuming for any real deadline. That leads to conversion varnish but that requires a nice day outside or for the wife and kids to leave the house for a little while (museum, zoo, park, etc) Neither is practical and plus I want to go to the zoo too. The argument against water based varnishes is the clear/milky look instead of a rich deep glow. But couldn't you just spray an amber shellac coat first, sealing and giving the beautiful color that solvents give? Then finish with a quality water based coat, thinking Target Coatings EMTECH line. Side note, I have used rubio and while I don't mind it on occasion (I know guy is not a fan), I hate having to mix and the lack of options for sheen. Thanks team! - Patrick 2) I have heard you all talk about how much you love and use for MFT tables and top and I love mine for those sweet, square, 27" crosscuts. What I haven't figured out yet is how to utilize it for much of anything else. I think one of you mentioned it as an assembly table, but it would be awesome to hear more ideas on how you utilize it your shops. Thanks! Jeremy Sean 1) Help me settle a bet with my wife. She thinks I'm quote unquote "injury prone" in the woodshop. I always have Band-Aids on my hands and arms. She jokes that I am 30% bandaid at all times. I wouldn't consider myself injury prone, other than that one chisel incident last summer (chisel into index knuckle, 10 stitches, yada yada yada). My question is, on a normal day, how many minor injuries do you receive? Cuts, scrapes, splinters, scratches, anything that requires a bandaid. What do you consider the normal course of a day on this kind of thing? I need to explain to her that this kind of thing is just the cost of doing business. Thanks again! - Eric 2) Hey Guys, Isaac from Teton Woodshop. I have a question about drum sanders. I recently bought a drum sander because I don't like sanding (shocker) and I thought it would cut down on sanding time for panels. However I found it left deep scratches in the wood that took quite awhile to sand out with the random orbital sander. I am finding much easier to just make sure my boards are flat, line up the glue joints with dominos and sand with a random orbital sander without using the drum sander. This process seems much faster for me. Am I missing something in my use of the drum sander? I hear it is a luxury to have in the shop but I find it being more of a nuisance than a luxury at this point. I'd love to hear about how you guys use it to see why you consider it a luxury and I consider it a large space taker in the shop. Huy 1) Hey Gents, wanted to say you have an awesome show going. Wanted to know if you've ever held off on making something because you don't have a specific tool or upgraded tool? For instance I currently have a Dewalt jobsite table saw so not the most reliable or accurate saw and am saving up for a cabinet saw and think I'll be more comfortable making things then. Thanks again. - Paul 2) I bought a cordless Dewalt track saw. I picked it because of the two way track and you don’t have to spin the tracks around as much when breaking down plywood. It was my first track saw. Now, I’m realizing that I can’t use the after market accessories available to Festool tracksaw owners like the parallel guides and the 90 degree guide. Do you think these accessories are worth selling my Dewalt and getting the Festool? I would like to move to final cuts with the track saw as mentioned by Guy in the last episode. - Brian
62 minutes | 8 months ago
Episode 46 - CNC vs Scroll Saw, Best Blade for Melamine, Math is Hard & MUCH More!
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife Guy's questions 1) Easy question for you today! What’s the number one math you hate to do in the shop? For me it’s calculating measurements on the router. For instance let’s say I’m making a template to use a guide bushing on. For some reason getting that perfect measurement from center to the edge makes me cringe. Another in this aspect is measuring from the base of the router to the center of the bit, or even the blade of the bit for a groove or dado. Just always seems to make me want to call it quits and grab a beer. Guy, you’re almost as cool as your Lamello. Huy, your work is almost as intense as your social media posts. Sean, your just about as fancy as your finished pieces! As always, Thank you for your time and please keep up the absolutely wonderful work y’all are doing on the podcast and your shops! Thanks, Brent Jarvis Clean Cut Woodworking 2) Sawstop has a sliding table option. As you can tell, I love sliding tables! However, is it worth the big $$$ for this option if I could just get the Incra sliding miter 5000? It takes less room, but what do I lose by going this way? -Tony Sean's questions 1) I’m starting to make more and more cabinet type projects. Do you have any cabinet building books you recommend? I want to make sure I am doing things correctly. -Hunter 2) Gents, thank you for the awesome format of this podcast. Love it. I started thinking to get a scroll saw and then realized a CNC can do what I'm looking for as well provided I'm willing to chop the rounded corners left by the cnc bit square. It seems the CNC is more versatile so if I'm going to invest in a new skill, it might be the way to go. In your opinions, if price is not a factor can a CNC fill the void a scroll saw fills or do I need to learn to use both? Thanks!-Matt Huy's questions 1) My question is regarding miter stations: Do I really need one? The last couple of years I’ve been using a cordless jigsaw to break down rough stock and precision crosscuts I’ve used my incra 5000. When building tabletops, I square up with my tracksaw so no need there...Do you guys find them integral to your processes? I should add I intend to begin focusing on building rocking chairs. Not having built a rocker before, I’d like to know if the miter saw becomes more or less important in that specific application? Thanks, Ray 2) Howdy Guys - Love the podcast, best on the web!I've taken on a garage cabinetry project for a friend. They're wanting the melamine floor to ceiling type and would like your opinions on melamine table saw blades.I see there are two types, the "Triple Chip" and the "Steep Bevel" teeth. Is one better than the other? And is one more useful for other tasks also, like veneered panels/ply. Will probably go with either Infinity or Forest unless you have other suggestions.I'll be using two-sided melamine, don't have a tracksaw, so will be breaking then down with a circular saw and then to final dimensions on cabinet saw (Powermatic 66).Thanks for all the insights you all share and for keeping it entertaining!-Eric
49 minutes | 8 months ago
Episode 45 - Gel Varnish, Router Table In Table Saw Wing, Cope & Stick Bits, & MUCH More!
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife Guy: 1) Always enjoy listening to your podcast while working in my shop. I recently saw Huy using a router set to cut cope and stick joints for some cabinet doors. I have a similar set by Freud that I have used to cut many similar joints over the past several years. My set has not been cutting very well the last few times I used it so I took it to have it professionally sharpened. It's no better now than before, maybe worse. Should I try having them sharpened again, or is this just the nature of the beast? Keep up the good work on the podcast. -John 2) Sharpening vs replacing. I’m still running straight knives on my planer and jointer and always wondered what makes more sense between the two. The local Rockler and Woodcraft stores offer send away sharpening for these and all other blades and bits. It’s about $20-25 for a set of blades to get sharpened, but they’re about the same to just replace them. I could be just getting the “cheaper” blades as they’re not carbide tipped or anything special. What are your thoughts? I know table saw/miter saw blades are different and seem to last longer. What were your methods before going to helical everything? Joey Sean: 1) New to woodworking, love the podcast, learned a ton from you guys so far! My question is about determining moisture in wood when purchasing. I’ve heard you guys talk a lot about needing to sticker wood and let dry before beginning a project, but how does a person know when choosing pieces from their local dealer, what the moisture level is? Does everyone just take a moisture meter with them when selecting boards? Or is there some other way to know which pieces will allow me to start on a project sooner than later? If I want to build a table for example, I don’t want to have to wait two years for my lumber to dry before starting the project. Again, I’m new to woodworking, so apologies if this seems elementary. -Tony 2) Just watched an episode of Woodsmith Shop on my local PBS channel. They were making a white oak gentleman's dresser, and used a "gel varnish" for the finish. I have never heard of this before, and I was wondering if any of you guys have used it before? They did not identify the make or model of the product, but Old Masters is one of their sponsors, so I suspect it may have come from them. Huy: 1) Enjoy your program very much. How did three intelligent talented young men (yes Guy your are younger then I) living so far apart geographly ever become close friends? My question is I would like to add a good jointer to my modest woodworking shop (https://www.instagram.com/papajimshobbywoodworking/) but due to space constraints a floor model would not fit at this time and a 6 inch model may not always be wide enough. Have been looking online at the Model 40180HC-CT (with carbide tips) jointer from www.cutechtool.com Any thoughts on this or suggestions on a different jointer. I am retired from a carrier in massage therapy now living on Uncle Sams monthly donations and enjoying my hobby. Thank you and have the best day ever. James 2) First, I own a large 27”x43” Incra router table. It takes up a lot of space. Is it worth getting rid of the table and getting the built in router table option on a Sawstop? I realize I probably will lose the Incra fence, but I could get back significant room. Tony from Atlanta
50 minutes | 9 months ago
Episode 44 - Workbench Tips, Are Parallel Clamps Really Worth It?, Carbide Head Upgrade, & MUCH More!
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife Guy 1) I have a couple of Bessey F-Style clamps and some wooden ones made by Klemsia here in Germany (https://www.klemmsia.de). What to get next? Are parallel clamps like Bessey's REVO really worth the extra price? Lots of people in the US seem to use pipe clamps - what's so good about them? Are there any specialty clamps that should go into my basic kit like wooden handscrews or one handed clamps? Jarmo 2) I have seen lots of articles on making and using shooting boards but I don’t understand very well the theory behind shooting miters. How does the process work? I mean, if I make a mitered frame, and the miters aren’t perfect, what is the order or operations or the process for shooting the perfectly while maintaining the perfect length of opposing sides? As I think about it, it seems like trueing a miter also shortens the piece with will introduce a new problem and I’ll end up chasing perfection forever. Can you help me understand this? Thank you so much! I love your show and I seriously appreciate all the effort that goes into it. All of you make my hobby even more enjoyable! - Mart Sean 1) Hello guys, I am in the process of building my first real workbench and was wondering how you like the benches you have. I've seen your benches on YouTube-my questions are, how did you decide on your design/type of bench and vise styles? Is there any things you would do next time? The stuff I'm interested in is usually furniture, using mostly power tools but want to use hand tools more often. Any other discussion on the topic would be appreciated. Thanks and keep up the good work on the podcast- don't ever change your format- it's what makes this podcast stick out from the crowd! - Travis 2) I have a couple of questions about my DeWalt DW735 planer. Lately I’ve been having trouble with the planer not pulling the wood through. I’ve tried waxing the wings and bed and cleaning the rollers with mineral spirits. These help for a bit, but eventually it stops pulling the wood through again. Any ideas on what might be causing this? Brian Huy 1) Question: I’m a diy’re and have accumulated my tools over the years. I have a Ridgid Planer and a Ridgid 6” jointer and a Delta Bandsaw 14”. They all run fine. My question is - would it be worth the money To upgrade the Ridgid machines with the helix cutters and the Bandsaw with a Carter bandsaw guides. If I did them all it would be around $1000.00. - Dave 2) How do you know when a piece of sandpaper is worn out or no longer the grit it says it is? I use high quality klingspor sanding discs that last a long time but not sure how to tell when they are no longer effective. Is there a board footage or rule of thumb you guys can talk about? - Stockbilt
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