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WARDROBE CRISIS with Clare Press
49 minutes | Oct 16, 2021
What's the Story with Recycled Polyester? Cyndi Rhoades from Worn Again Explains All
More than half of all the textiles use today are polyester. You will definitely have poly in your wardrobe, even if you prefer natural fibres. Synthetics are lurking everywhere, whether as polyester, nylon, or blends mixed with cotton. Poly is cheap, ubiquitous and it's not going away any time soon. It's also made from fossil fuels, doesn't biodegrade and most of it ends up as waste.Cyndi Rhoades believes recycled is the answer. A UK-based, US-raised activist turned entrepreneur, she founded Worn Again Technologies (originally called Worn Again) in 2005 - determined to make a difference and create a business out of solving the challenge of textiles ending up in landfill or incineration. Initially, she looked to upcycling. “It was really hard it make it work at scale, but also ultimately we weren’t solving the problem of textile waste," she says. "Once these second-life products were used, they would end up in landfill anyway. So we were only postponing textiles going to landfill. It made us realise that recycling at a molecular level was the solution.” From her formative days in London's early 2000s sustainable fashion scene, to living on a barge off-the-grid today, Cyndi has a long view on how this space has evolved and what's coming next. Ever wondered how virgin polyester is actually made? Did you know the recycled kind is almost always made from recycled plastic bottles, not textiles? How sustainable is it? How do we decide? It is greenwashing? Can we really make fashion circular? What would that look like? Why is it taking so damn long? This Episode is like a masterclass in material-to-material recycling. See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
64 minutes | Sep 29, 2021
Waste Colonialism and Dead White Man's Clothes with Liz Ricketts
Are you unwittingly contributing to waste colonialism via your wardrobe choices? What happens to our unwanted clothes when we donate them? Overproducing and underusing clothes has far-reaching consequences, as this week's guest Liz Ricketts of The Or Foundation explains.Each week, around 15 million pieces of secondhand clothing arrive in the Kantamanto second-hand clothing market in Accra, Ghana - and 40% goes to waste.This is the story of how your old shirt or dress or pants might end up clogging drains in Accra. Or form part of a heavy rope of textiles in the ocean, or lurking under the sand like some dystopian synthetic sea monster. Or smouldering on a waste mountain in an informal dump that’s been on fire months.It doesn’t have to be this way - maybe your old clothes will get fixed up and sold on to live another life. It’s complicated, as are the solutions.What do you think? Let us know! We're on Instagram @mrspress and @thewardrobecrisis, and on Twitter @mrspresswww.thewardrobecrisis.com See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
42 minutes | Sep 3, 2021
Status, Self-Obsession, Mental Health & What's Really Controlling How We Act - Will Storr
Are you a special person? How self-obsessed are we, as a society? How and why do we compare ourselves to others? What makes us group-ish? Violent? Or community minded? How about narcissistic? And is that getting worse?This week's guest is the British author Will Storr, who's latest book is Status Game: on social position and how we use it. After reading one of his previous books - Selfie, How We Became So Self-Obsessed and What It's Doing to Us - Clare persuaded him to come on Wardrobe Crisis and share his ideas and research about what lies beneath our social media culture, power games, virtue signalling and obsession with getting ahead.Will is also the author of a book, TED talk and creative writing class called The Science of Storytelling.In this lively discussion, Will and Clare talk about everything from Ancient Greece to TIME magazine covers; the origins of the self-esteem movement to Instagram; narcissism, perfectionism, mental health and the origins of western individualism.What do you think? Let us know! We're on Instagram @mrspress and @thewardrobecrisis, and on Twitter @mrspresswww.thewardrobecrisis.com See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
39 minutes | Aug 19, 2021
Inclusive, Purpose-Driven - the Future of Fashion According to Kenyan Designer Anyango Mpinga
Everyone's talking about climate action and social change - but Fashion is still carrying on like it's 1999. The velvet rope! Exclusivity! Snobbery and barriers to entry that lock many young designers with new ideas, out. Fashion weeks alone are massive carbon emitters, before we've even considered production. Pre-pandemic, the carbon footprint of all the media, buyers, models and designers going to the big four fashion weeks (NY, London, Milan & Paris) over a 12-month period, was enough to light up Times Square in New York for 58 years!And you're no doubt familiar with fashion's unfairness, murky supply chains and lack of diversity. Change is due.But the industry seems determined to get back to business as usual. This week's guest, London-based Kenyan fashion designer Anyango Mpinga has other ideas. Digital presentations could change the game, she says. But that's just one piece of the puzzle. Fashion must find its heart again.In this inspiring conversation, Anyango and host Clare Press talk purpose, service and giving back - and how, in Anyango's case, coming from a family of strong African women has shaped her. The designer shares her advice for independents trying to be as sustainable as possible, and the broader industry that needs to do better on diversity and inclusion. Big Fashion - take notes!Go to www.thewardrobecrisis.com for all the links. See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
52 minutes | Aug 12, 2021
How Eco-Friendly is Fashion Rental, Really?
Have you heard the one about throwing your clothes away being better for the planet than renting them?In this Episode, we get the real story on the study out of Finland that spawned so many clickbait headlines, then ask a British retail legend about what's driving the fashion rental boom. We hear from a purpose-driven millennial founder about what her company is doing to ensure rental really is a greener fashion option than buying new clothes; and learn the secrets of eco-friendly dry cleaning (which... is actually wet - who knew?).Featuring interviews with: Professor Jarkko Levänen of Lahti University of Technology; Jane Shepherdson, chair of My Wardrobe HQ; Victoria Prew, co-founder of HURR, and Dr Kyle Grant, founder of Oxwash.Thank you for listening to Wardrobe Crisis. Don't forget to hit subscribe!Find us at wwww.thewardrobecrisis.com & on Instagram See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
49 minutes | Aug 5, 2021
You Need to Know These New Sustainable Fashion Designers
Who's Shaping Sustainable Fashion's Design Future? Each Wardrobe Crisis series we present a new generation talent episode, spotlighting emerging fashion designers who are pushing sustainability forward.This time we’re talking with: a positive knitwear designer from Canada who’s ongoing collaboration with Post Carbon lab sees her creating living garments that photosynthesise as you wear them. A British fashion multi-tasker who works as a sustainable womenswear designer focused on deadstock materials, a freelance writer, model and stylist. And a community-driven womenswear designer from Brazil who is wowing with his artful, high-craft textile treatments - and challenging fashion’s obsession with youth while he’s at it.Meet Olivia Rubens, Joshua James Small and Joao Maraschin.This Episode is guest-host - Nina Van Volkinburg, fashion academic and co-founder of the Reture designer upcycling marketplace. See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
42 minutes | Jul 30, 2021
How To Be Old with Accidental Icon's Lyn Slater
How do you feel about getting older? Maybe you’re so young it feels a world away? Or maybe you’re feeling it, and wondering where the time went?This week’s guest fashion influencer Lyn Slater has no such worries - she reinvented her career in her 60s, going from college professor to Instagram star and being described as “one of fashion's finest-dressed people”. Since then she’s been written about a thousand times as a sort poster woman for growing older stylishly. But now, she’s examining further what it means to be old, and what we think about that word, from old people to old houses to old things.In a recent post on her blog, Accidental Icon, she wrote: “I’m going to keep saying I’m old over and over until it drains all the pejorative connotations from the word and the exuberant proclamations like, ‘60 is the new 40’ which still seems to imply younger is better.”Does old still have a stigma? How does it relate to slow, slowing down, slow fashion, appreciating things that have been around a bit. Are we on the brink of a new-old revolution? It's time to have a conversation about how to be old!Thank you for listening to Wardrobe Crisis. Find our website here.Don't forget to subscribe! And if you listen in Apple Podcasts, please consider rating & reviewing. Love the show? Get in touch in IG @mrspress & @thewardrobecrisis See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
50 minutes | Jul 14, 2021
The Day the World Stops Shopping - J.B. MacKinnon
“The 21st century has brought a critical dilemma into sharp relief: we must stop shopping, and yet we can’t stop shopping.” - J.B MacKinnon Have you noticed that stopping shopping is trending? It used to be a very unusual challenge to take on, but fashion detoxes are going mainstream as people begin to question hyper-consumerism and look for ways to resist it. But what would happen if we all turned off the fashion tap tomorrow? And not just fashion - consumer goods in general. What if everybody stopped shopping all at once? The wheels of the economy-as-we-know-it would grind to a halt. There’d be mass unemployment, and potentially chaos, the most marginalised people would be worst affected. And what about all those small business, including the ethical and sustainable ones? What about your job? Could we find a balance between curbing our consumerist excesses while keeping afloat? In this must-listen episode, Clare quizzes author J.B. MacKinnon about his riveting thought experiment. When he started thinking about his central dilemma - that the planet seems to need us to stop consuming so much, while the economy seems to require us to keep doing it - no one could have imagined what was around the corner. Covid made the thought experiment real...Thank you for listening to Wardrobe Crisis. Find our website here.Don't forget to subscribe! And if you listen in Apple Podcasts, please consider rating & reviewing. Love the show? Get in touch in IG @mrspress & @thewardrobecrisis See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
46 minutes | Jun 30, 2021
It's Amazing What She Can Do With an Old Tablecloth - Meet Menswear Maverick Emily Adams Bode
Lock up your linens! Emily Adams Bode has designs on your grandma's tablecloths. And her quilts. America's favourite emerging menswear talent made her fashion name upcycling characterful old domestic textiles and dusty deadstock - winning a CFDA award and a Woolmark Prize while she was at it. The result is menswear with meaning, designed to be passed down the generations.This is a lovely quirky conversation about what inspires her as a maker and collector, the joys of upcycling and the layers of meaning in hand-worked and customised clothes. Thank you for listening to Wardrobe Crisis. Find our website here. Don't forget to subscribe! And if you listen in Apple Podcasts, please consider rating & reviewing. Love the show? Get in touch in IG @mrspress & @thewardrobecrisisSee omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information. See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
68 minutes | Jun 23, 2021
Red Shoes! Aminata Conteh-Biger, This is What a Refugee Looks Like
Welcome back! Series 6 is here!The title of this episode asks you to leave your pre-conceptions at the door. There is no one way for a refugee to look, seem, dress and show up in the world. On World Refugee Day, the UN Refugee Agency (UNHCR) asks us to honour refugees around the globe. To celebrate the strength and courage of people who have been forced to flee their home countries to escape conflict or persecution. And so we are excited to bring you this extraordinary interview with Aminata Conteh-Biger. Aminata is an UNHCR ambassador in Australia. She's also an author, speaker and the founder of Aminata Maternal Foundation. We met when I hosted an event for her wonderful book, Rising Heart, at an organisation in Sydney that we both support called The Social Outfit.Like everyone who has listened to her tell story, I was deeply affected by it, but also by Aminata's spirit. She has endured some terrible things, but if I had to think of words to describe her they'd be about love, joy, generosity, fun, glamour, the sisterhood and activism. Aminata is a fabulous fashion fan, mum, women's rights and maternal health advocate, and, yes, refugee.She is the sum of her many parts - proof that we are not one story, even when that story is as big as hers.In 1999, during the civil war in Sierra Leone, the then 18-year-old Aminata was a kidnapped by rebel soldiers. She was held captive for several months, and finally freed as part of a negotiated prisoner exchange. When she fled to Australia, with UNHCR's assistance, she had no idea what it would be like. She arrived here with nothing and to had to start again.Trigger warning - this conversation includes reference to rape and details of violence. But ultimately this is an uplifting story about fleeing one home and finding another - and joy along the way. Thanks to Spell, this episode is proudly brought to you by The Climate Council.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information. See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
34 minutes | Apr 29, 2021
How To Make A Handbag the Old-Fashioned Way With Slow Fashion Craftswoman Simone Agius
While you were distracted by the latest luxury It-whatever (and the shiny, ridiculously expensive global marketing behind it) slow local fashion makers were carefully, quietly crafting their wares regardless - on a fraction of the budgets of the big fashion names.It's time to take more notice of them! Because if we don't support the independents, how will they thrive? Can small local makers compete with the big guys today, and should they try? Or is it time to build new networks that create a totally different playing field?Meet one woman going her own way - and sharing what she's learned along it.Simone Agius is the Melbourne maker behind Simetrie - a disruptive, hand-crafted accessories brand that's challenging norms.Thank you for listening to our "pass the podcast mic" series. We've loved making it for you. If you can help us spread the word, please do (we're indie too). A nice rate & review in Apple goes down a treat.Links and all sorts on thewardrobecrisis.comFollow us on Instagram here and here.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information. See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
46 minutes | Apr 21, 2021
Fashion Revolution Special - A Conversation About Trees with Canopy Founder Nicole Rycroft
CALLING ALL TREE-HUGGERS! Nicole Rycroft founded Canopy Planet at her kitchen table in Vancouver with a small budget and a big idea - to protect the world's precious forests.20 years later, Canopy is one of the leading organisations fighting globally for last frontier forests and engaging business - including the fashion industry - to find alternatives to unsustainably sourced wood in their supply chains.Do we really use ancient trees to make trivial things? Try pizza boxes and party frocks. It's an outrage (and you'll hear Clare getting mad about it in this chat) but it's also an opportunity for change, and Canopy is doing something about it.This bonus Episode was produced in partnership with Fashion Revolution. The theme this year is Rights, Relationships and Revolution. Forests have rights too!Thank you for supporting our work. If you like this Episode, please share it - we appreciate your help in spreading the word.Find the shownotes & all things Wardrobe Crisis here.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information. See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
31 minutes | Apr 14, 2021
Meet Ýr Jóhannsdóttir - Iceland's Most Exciting Knitwear Provocateur
How big is sustainable fashion in Iceland? You might be surprised to find out.We also nearly called this Episode: The Secret Lives Of Sweaters. Listen and you will see why!In this fascinating, surprising conversation about funny jumpers and changing the world, you will meet Ýr Jóhannsdóttir - a textile designer, artist/activist upcycler from Reykjavik.With her label Ýrúrarí (and her huge Instagram following) she is making a name for herself using creativity and humour to challenge fashion's unsustainable ways. People want to have fun with fashion, she says, and if we can use that to get a serious message across, that's a powerful thing. Also up for discussion: Iceland's craft and wool tradition, appreciating the local, resourcefulness, tool libraries and the future of fashion as sharing. This is part of our "pass the podcast" mic series - the (extended) finale! Where we're telling listener stories. Love it? Please help us spread the word. If you can rate & review in Apple, we'd be grateful.Find us at thewardrobecrisis.comFollow us on Instagram here and here.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information. See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
65 minutes | Mar 4, 2021
Vintage, Thrifted & Secondhand Fashion - Series 5 Finale, Listener Stories Part 1.
Vintage and second-hand fashion is in the news more than ever before. It's set to eclipse fast fashion within ten years. The designer re-commerce sector is booming. But as shopping pre-loved becomes more aspirational, are those who rely on thrifted clothes being locked out?What's not up for debate, however, is that the piles of discarded fashion and textiles keep growing. The excess is real. Where it ends up, who pays the price, what that price should be, what's selling, what's not, what should be ... in this week's episode we address all this and more as our listeners take a seat in the interviewee's chair. Welcome to Part 1 of our #sharethepodcastmic finale, featuring vintage rental store-owner Ali Dibley on clothes with personalities; dedicated thrifter Julia Browne on the evolution of opshopping and street style photographer Liisa Jokinen on preloved's digital revolution.Find the shownotes here. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information. See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
44 minutes | Feb 17, 2021
The Magic of Plants, Organic Gardening and Why Weeds Are Wonderful
Who else talks to their plants? This week's joyful episode is a love letter to what we grow - in gardens, allotments, veggie patches and pots on our windowsills the world over. But also what grows wild - in the woods, hedgerows, fields and scrub, the verges by the freeways, even the cracks in city pavements.Your guest host, musician and gardener Nidala Barker, talks with her friend and fellow green thumb, Kobi Bloom about connecting to Earth, respecting our Mother and the marvellous magic of plants.Up for discussion: How can learning more about plants and their wonder help us heal the planet? What exactly is a regenerative farmer or gardener (and how can you be be one)? What happens if we donʼt pull out the weeds? What can we do about food waste? And why is compost so often the answer to life's big questions?But first, here's Nidala singing good morning to her veggie patch... you could not make this up - but she does! Every day it's a new song. Ah, told you this one was a joy.Find Nidala on Instagram here.Find Kobi here.Don't miss our shownotes, for all the links and extra info, www.thewardrobecrisis.com/podcastSee omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information. See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
46 minutes | Feb 5, 2021
Sustainable Fashion is a Lie Without Garment Workers at the Table - Nazma Akter
Welcome to another episode of series 5 - #sharethepodcastmicDon't forget to hit subscribe and if you value these conversations, please share them with your communities.Your guest host this week is Ayesha Barenblat, founder of ReMake, and she is in conversation with Nazma Akter, founder and Executive Director of the Awaj Foundation. Nazma has been fighting to improve workers' rights in Bangladesh's garment sector for 30 years - and she started out as a garment worker herself, aged just 11. Hers is a powerful, persuasive, brilliant voice from the workers' side. So why have't you heard it before?The answer is because fashion - yes, even sustainable fashion - operates with a power imbalance that too often shuts workers out. We rarely hear from the people who make our clothes, especially those in low-wage countries. Instead, we hear from brands talking about garment workers, or well meaning white people talking on their behalf. Mostly, we hear from those who make the decisions, rather than those who must live with them. But if we are to build a truly sustainable and ethical fashion industry, we must make space for the people who make our clothes.Find all the links and shownotes on www.thewardrobecrisis.comFollow ReMake here.Love the show? Get in touch in IG @mrspress & @thewardrobecrisis See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information. See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
51 minutes | Jan 28, 2021
Jason Hickel - Can Degrowth Save Fashion?
Everybody's talking about degrowth. Does this mean we've finally woken up to the reality of climate breakdown and ecological collapse? Are we ready to challenge capitalism's obsession with GDP and perpetual expansion? If so, what's the alternative? And how can we apply this to fashion, beyond simply "buy less"? How might we reimagine the whole system, and rethink how we measure success?This week's guest host Nina Gbor interviews Jason Hickel about his new book Less is More - How Degrowth Will Save the World.Jason is a rockstar economist (no grey suits here) focused on global inequality, political economy, post-development, and ecological economics. He teaches at Goldsmiths, University of London and serves on the Statistical Advisory Panel for the UN Human Development Report 2020, the advisory board of the Green New Deal for Europe and on the Harvard-Lancet Commission on Reparations and Redistributive Justice.Follow him on Twitter here.Love the show? Get in touch in IG @mrspress & @thewardrobecrisisFind all the links and shownotes on www.thewardrobecrisis.comSee omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information. See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
42 minutes | Jan 20, 2021
Belinda Duarte - Culture is Life, racism & reconciliation in Australia
Meet Belinda Duarte, former athlete and educator, current inspirational leader, formidable female exec, proud First Nations Australian and the inspiration for Series 5 - #sharethepodcastmicJust in time for January 26th - a significant day in this country. It's time to #changethedateThere's so much up for discussion in this one - from Belinda's family story, to sustainability and Indigenous wisdom, raising strong young people, ethical leadership and how we can use sport and culture to move towards reconciliation.Find Culture is Life here.You can find extensive notes & links on what you hear at www.thewardrobecrisis/podcastEnjoyed the episode? Please share it! Tag us on Instagram @thewardrobecrisis @mrspress See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information. See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
42 minutes | Jan 13, 2021
Culture, Connection & Mentoring Indigenous Fashion Talent - Model Charlee Fraser
In March 2020, Grace Lillian Lee and Teagan Cowlishaw announced Australia's first ever Indigenous fashion council - First Nations Fashion & Design. In December, they held their first fashion show - Walking in Two Worlds. But don't expect just any old runway. This is a beautiful story about reframing the fashion discourse, connecting to country, and mentoring emerging Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander fashion talent.Grace is this week's #sharethepodcastmic guest host and she's in conversation with First Nations Fashion + Design ambassador - model Charlee Fraser. Charlee is a proud Awabakal woman and a beautiful spirt. She's also a Paris fashion week favourite with multiple magazine covers under her belt. Follow her on Instagram here.Find First Nations Fashion + Design here.You can find extensive notes & links on what you hear at www.thewardrobecrisis/podcastThank you to our sponsors Bendigo Art Gallery. Enjoyed the episode? Please share it! Tag us on Instagram @thewardrobecrisis @mrspressSee omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information. See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
42 minutes | Jan 6, 2021
First Nations Fabulous - Australian Indigenous Fashion
Welcome back to Series 5, #sharethepodcastmicWhy are all eyes are on Indigenous Australian fashion right now? Try 60,000 years of sustainability... "We're the original fashion industry in this country," says this week's guest host Yatu Widders-Hunt of the vibrant, continuously evolving First Nations fashion and design sector.In this Episode, we hear from curator Shonae Hobson about her Piinpi exhibition - the first major survey of contemporary Indigenous Australian fashion to be undertaken in this country. And from designers Julie Shaw of Maara Collective and Teagan Cowlishaw of Aarli.You can find extensive notes & links at www.thewardrobecrisis/podcastEnjoyed the episode? Please share it! Tag us on Instagram @thewardrobecrisis @mrspressSee omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information. See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
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