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The Nugget Climbing Podcast
102 minutes | Sep 13, 2021
EP 86: Dylan Barks — Spray Wall Sessions, RMNP Rampaging, and Recovering from an Eating Disorder
Dylan Barks is an elite-level boulder and sport climber, and a dark horse in the climbing scene. He sent ‘Creature from the Black Lagoon’, his first V16, just two weeks after this interview. We talked about how Dylan uses a spray wall for 95% of his training, how he prepares for both bouldering and sport climbing trips, and about recovering from an eating disorder to climb his hardest ever.Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dylan-barksNuggets:4:00 – Vanlife pipedreams, Dylan’s work and school, and finding his groove climbing outside 7:05 – Being in both the competition and outdoor worlds8:30 – Bad haircut timing, and the alpine as a harsh and special place11:32 – How Dylan prepared for his trip to RMNP, and spray wall training for both bouldering and sport climbing14:11 – Dylan’s training philosophy, and why he uses the spray wall16:24 – The value of benchmarks, and mixing limit bouldering with perfect repeats17:58 – ‘A Day in Boone’, how Dylan has trained his capacity, and session format21:40 – The line between capacity training vs. junk mileage23:45 – Deep dive: spray wall session format26:32 – 60 move circuits, running, and pushing through vs. resting31:23 – Watching Dylan on ‘Wild Cat’, and his story about competing against Daniel Woods37:00 – Internalizing the feeling of a move, and bringing intention to all of your climbing39:17 – Sending ‘White Noise’, and finding another gear on this trip40:20 – Taking the lower grade, and being his own harshest critic41:32 – Where Dylan sees a lot of climbers going wrong in their training and improvement43:44 – Coaching Jon, and coaching the team in MI45:43 – Starting climbing at summer camp46:33 – ‘Southern Smoke Direct’, taking a hiatus due to an eating disorder, and the light at the end of a dark tunnel48:52 – Sharing about an eating disorder, and how Dylan’s struggle started 51:51 – Dysmorphia, and “Your body’s got it.”56:00 – A couple of paragraphs from ‘Weighing In’ 1:01:13 – Trusting the process, seeing things working, and the tricks our mind can play on us1:04:57 – Looking at old pictures1:06:04 – What 18-year-old Dylan needed to hear1:08:28 – Going to the hospital, rebuilding relationships, and turning things around1:10:48 – Mike, and “feed the beast”1:12:14 – Untapped potential for strength, and thoughts vs. actions1:15:08 – Navigating negative thoughts1:17:00 – Using your climbing and training as the main driver for body composition1:20:19 – Climbing ‘Arrested Development’ second try1:24:15 – Mindful climbing, and being in the present moment1:25:52 – Practicing mindfulness1:26:52 – If you could only do one more hard rock climb…1:28:35 – That “click”1:30:14 – Southern sandstone1:31:21 – Go-to climbing shoes1:33:02 – Warming up your technique1:34:35 – Trying ‘Creature from the Black Lagoon’1:36:04 – School, and getting out his “ya yas”1:37:25 – Aspirations to be a pro-climber?1:39:01 – Vulnerability and the gift of sharing 1:40:10 – Gratitude, and meaningful connections
42 minutes | Sep 9, 2021
(Teaser) Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Summer Training Plan, Listener Q&A, and Steve’s Go-To Training Exercises
This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Steve Maisch. We talked about the aerobic system and oxygen testing with Tyler Nelson, how to maintain climbing fitness during mountain biking season, my summer training program and my plan for the fall and winter, how Steve is preparing for his own trip to Hueco this winter, and we did a listener Q&A from our last episode.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 2:45:31.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
123 minutes | Sep 6, 2021
EP 85: Emil Abrahamsson — Trying Hard Projects, Hangboarding Two Times Per Day, and a Career on YouTube
Emil Abrahamsson is an elite boulderer, route setter, and YouTuber from Sweden. We talked about goal setting and projecting his first V15 as a V9 climber, the importance of psych and inspiration, experimenting with hangboarding two times per day, how to do one-arm pullups, sharing the experience of outdoor climbing through films, and making a living through his YouTube channel.Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/emil-abrahamssonNuggets:3:11 – Building a van and planning a bouldering trip around Europe6:01 – My bouldering goals, Emil’s progression, and setting goals9:27 – Trying a V15 as a V9 climber, and how a lot of climbers stay “comfortable” at a specific level12:53 – ‘The Big Island’ 17:17 – Emil’s first day of climbing, struggling early on, and getting hooked19:38 – Alternating difficulty and volume goals21:32 – ‘The Queen Mother’ (Emil’s first 8B/V13 project in Stockholm), and the limiting power of expectations29:21 – Reflecting on ‘The Queen Mother’, and prioritizing psych and motivation32:00 – Felix37:13 – “Swiss Recruitment”, or the Swiss style of projecting41:00 – How Emil got into YouTubing, capturing the experience of outdoor climbing, and my impression as a viewer44:27 – Forgetting to charge the batteries, and the stress vs. fun of filming47:42 – Work-life balance when you love your work, and turning YouTubing into a career49:34 – How to balance capturing footage with training or performing, and capturing the good and the bad51:15 – Emil’s “No Hangs” hangboard video, and his caveat for training advice56:00 – Quick overview of the “No Hang” hangboard protocol, and Emil’s theory of why his fingers got stronger1:00:16 – We get most of our strength through climbing1:01:41 – 4x4s and other climbing games 1:04:10 – Training your strengths, and practicing weaknesses through climbing1:06:59 – How Emil structures his training, and embracing the stretching “pain game”1:11:49 – Turning challenges into positives, and the benefits Emil has noticed from stretching1:14:46 – Patron question from Florian about avoiding crimping early on in his climbing, and how Emil worked to improve his crimp strength later1:18:34 – How Emil rewired his brain to think, “Full crimps are comfortable. I can enjoy these.”1:19:32 – Emil’s crimp progression and current level1:21:53 – One-arm pull-ups, 4mm crimps, front levers, and getting weaker on purpose to get better at technique1:28:55 – Emil’s recommendations for progressing to a one-arm pullup1:33:41 – How Emil pronounces his name, and a Patron question from Flynn about training for indoors vs. outdoors and competing in World Cups1:41:12 – Flash training 1:43:44 – World Cup goals, and the flame of competition1:47:34 – What is one of the weirdest/worst training experiments that you’ve tried?1:50:24 – Favorite films, the critical eye, and the need for consistent content1:54:48 – Recommendations for new viewers1:56:35 – Emil’s dream collaboration1:58:17 – Gratitude2:01:03 – Finishing the van, and plans for Switzerland and Italy
152 minutes | Aug 30, 2021
EP 84: Boone Speed — Training in the Hell Cave, the Grasshopper Board, and the Future of Artificial Climbing
Boone Speed is a photographer, innovator, and was the first American to climb 5.14b with his route ‘Super Tweak’ in Logan Canyon, UT. We talked about Boone’s upbringing, discovering climbing in American Fork, most memorable routes and trips, bolting and training in the Hell Cave, creating the Grasshopper Board, and his vision for the future of artificial climbing.Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/boone-speedNuggets:2:17 – The Paleo Diet, and Boone’s lunchables4:51 – Twitching on airplanes, and cutting out sugar6:09 – Being a picky eater as a kid6:47 – Growing up in Lindon UT, and the development of Silicon Slope8:11 – Working at the bronze foundry as a teenager, and Boone’s dad 12:48 – The expectations Boone’s parents had for him, and being proud of how he’s lived his life14:42 – Thriving in the chaos, and Boone’s beautiful and art-filled house15:35 – Boone’s sister, ‘Frequent Flyers’, and advice from his mom about raising his son21:07 – Ignoring bad behavior and praising good behavior22:20 – His son being surrounded by art, and getting into product design24:34 – How Boone got “bitten” by climbing, Smith Rock, and early “sport climbing” in 198627:17 – Ice climbing and telemark skiing29:32 – Climbing his first 5.13 in 1987, getting the power drill, and developing sport routes at Red Rocks33:33 – Studying photography and design at BYU33:59 – Hanging out in American Fork as a kid, and discovering climbing there37:04 – The Hell Cave44:37 – Milestones in The Hell Cave for Boone47:33 – The steepest crag in the world49:35 – Establishing the rest of Hell50:44 – The first snowbird comp, and getting validation from the guys in the magazines52:49 – Getting recognition, developing the VRG, and texting Ondra after he did ‘Necessary Evil’56:23 – Boone’s first climbing gym in a storage unit in 1987, and training by climbing every single day58:55 – Working at IME, Boone’s mom, and the structure of a photograph 1:03:12 – Climbing as a healthy addiction, and blending climbing with art1:06:31 – The photography Boone has in his house1:08:28 – The throughline of innovation, and creating stuff for themselves1:10:37 – The first crash pads, and climbing ‘Midnight Lightning’ with The Spot1:14:12 – The “need” that lead to starting Grasshopper1:19:14 – How I could train for ‘Just Do It’ on the Grasshopper board1:21:03 – My experience with training on a home woody, repetition as a path to mastery, and running laps in the Hell Cave1:23:18 – A day in the Hell Cave 1:25:17 – ‘Ice Cream’ in Hell1:27:57 – The two moments in climbing that have blown Boone away1:29:09 – The responsibility of pushing climbing forward, and passing the torch to Chris Sharma1:34:47 – Memories from a trip to China with Sharma and MC, and other favorite memories1:36:31 – Watching old climbing films with his wife Bailey1:37:23 – Working on Grasshopper with MC and Bailey1:43:45 – Addressing the climbing need, and installing a Grasshopper at a brand new HOA1:47:38 – Training on ergonomic vs. sharp and tweaky holds1:52:24 – What products Grasshopper is currently offering 1:56:21 – Creating products as an excuse “to make good photos again”, and finding product-market fit with the Grasshopper board2:02:06 – The route function2:10:12 – ‘Necessary Evil’, yoga, and strengthening2:12:57 – Tequila, surfing, wanting to perform, and using the board to stay within striking distance2:19:03 – What is standing between Boone and ‘Necessary Evil’, and Boone’s pandemic routine2:21:37 – How to be a fit 56-year-old2:24:20 – Yoga2:25:56 – Gratitude2:26:29 – Good things take time2:28:42 – How Boone and I met
19 minutes | Aug 28, 2021
(Teaser) Follow-Up: Nathan Hadley — Two Routes on The Diamond
This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Nathan Hadley. We talked about his recent 10-day trip to RMNP, in which he sent ‘The Honeymoon is Over’ and flashed the ‘Gambler’s Fallacy’ on The Diamond. We talked about how Nathan prepared for the trip, how he and his partner Mike Kerzhner sussed ‘The Honeymoon’, and the day of the send.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:03:36.
106 minutes | Aug 23, 2021
EP 83: Neely Quinn — Lessons from the TrainingBeta Podcast, Nutrition Advice for Climbers, and Kids vs. Houses
Neely Quinn is the founder of TrainingBeta, and the long-time host of The TrainingBeta Podcast. We talked about Neely’s health journey and discovering paleo, not wanting a boss, why she decided to create TrainingBeta, lessons learned from hosting 160+ interviews, injuries and surgery, project piano pieces, kids vs. houses, and her new puppy named Willa.Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neely-quinnNuggets:2:30 – The other side of the mic4:11 – Singing and piano, and hating performing 7:21 – Connections between podcasting, climbing, and music10:00 – Not wanting a boss, creating TrainingBeta, and Neely’s background in the paleo world11:40 – Neely’s initial plan for TrainingBeta, and the podcast as an afterthought12:35 – Scratching her own itch, getting fired, and brainstorming16:48 – Downloads and reads, the weight loss topic, and my eating disorder story20:58 – How to talk about fat loss, and how to do that in a healthy manner24:09 – Writing a book about the paleo diet, Neely’s health journey, and the impact of food on health29:15 – Neely’s diet before paleo30:19 – Why Neely rarely recommends the paleo diet, and the individuality of nutrition coaching32:42 – Neely’s most common nutrition recommendations (carb sources, protein, and artificials)37:06 – Neely’s diet39:06 – Chocolate40:14 – Common symptoms that are often connected to food44:14 – How to think about doing an elimination diet (if you are having symptoms)47:44 – Patron question from PogoStickJoe: Efficacy from Collagen?50:34 – Probiotics53:48 – Neely’s nutrition coaching and program55:22 – Neely’s surprise at the success of the TrainingBeta podcast and blog56:56 – The early days, growing TrainingBeta, and different measures of success1:01:31 – Balancing a business with climbing1:02:27 – Commitment, and the entrepreneurial spirit1:04:46 – Top lessons that Neely has learned from hosting 160+ episodes of the TrainingBeta podcast1:07:54 – Mindset, self-improvement, and the early days of training content1:10:31 – Some of the training exercises that helped Neely get to be her strongest ever, and wrist curls1:14:02 – Injuries, handstands, and wrist surgery1:16:26 – The ebbs and flows of motivation, and learning to be kinder to ourselves 1:18:23 – Imposter syndrome, and being a conduit for information1:20:06 – ‘Tomb Raider’, and being enough1:20:53 – Depression, comparison, and putting things in perspective1:23:59 – Piano, music, and balancing passions1:27:24 – Reality TV, and the Bachelorette 1:28:36 – Children vs. house1:29:26 – Kids1:32:36 – Willa and projecting1:34:18 – Patron question from Howard: Favorite local gym and favorite front range crag?1:35:32 – Rifle and the Red River Gorge1:36:29 – Getting recognized at the crag1:37:45 – New stuff with TrainingBeta, and adult climbing teams1:39:56 – Gratitude1:40:51 – Upcoming climbing trips, and closing thoughts
143 minutes | Aug 16, 2021
EP 82: Christine Deyo — Learning Creativity, Fontainebleau Circuits, and the Role of Diversity in Route Setting
Christine Deyo is a professional route setter, and the former head route setter at the Austin Bouldering Project. We talked about Christine’s path to route setting, learning to be creative, setting challenges and games, the Fontainebleau circuit system, the responsibility of route setters, competitions, the role of diversity in setting, and the future of the climbing industry.Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingClimbWell Retreat:climbwell.co/retreat-rifleUse code "NUGGET10" for 10% discount!Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/christine-deyoNuggets:2:30 – Christine’s dad, and falling in love with bouldering4:44 – Why Oregon?6:02 – Studying biochemistry, unemployment, and discovering route setting9:38 – The Nightly Business Report on PBS11:58 – Christine’s early route setting education14:26 – How route setting qualifications have evolved, and what Christine looks for when hiring a route setter18:57 – Three notable chapters in Christine’s evolution as a route setter28:36 – What makes a good setter?34:33 – The circuit system at the Bouldering Projects36:33 – How circuits work in Fontainebleau41:22 – How grades work within circuits44:23 – Combining the circuit system with the training boards, and improving at climbing aside from strength47:10 – How Christine uses the circuit system for training purposes50:45 – Patron question from Tyler: What are your thoughts on parkour-style setting and balancing that with movement found on real rock?58:16 – Patron question from Joe: Are there ways to get setters around the world to collaborate more?1:03:17 – Patron question from Tim: Where do you draw inspiration from when setting routes? (Christine’s collection of note cards.)1:07:30 – Creativity can be learned, creating constraints, and route setting challenges/games1:13:01 – Tonde’s email, the responsibility of setters, and the role of diversity in route setting1:20:31 – Questions from Tonde: What value do female setters bring to a setting team? Why bother with diversity?1:26:28 – More questions from Tonde: Is setting art? Where is setting going? The future of setting for competitions?1:30:45 – The role route setters play in competitions1:44:52 – What is the value of route setters in the climbing industry?1:47:50 – Safety in route setting1:53:06 – Setter salaries, ages, and turnover1:56:54 – How we move setting forward as a profession2:02:03 – Christine’s tips for taking care of yourself as a route set2:09:04 – Christine’s career, and what’s next2:14:19 – Learning to set dynos2:19:55 – Gratitude
26 minutes | Aug 12, 2021
(Teaser) Follow-Up: Dru Mack — Play Hard. Rest Hard.
This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Dru Mack. We talked about how his approach has changed since our first conversation, the process of sending ‘Life of Villains’ 14d, and how he used a hangboard to improve his power endurance for the route, intentional breathing, rest day adventures, recent books, new music, and the goal of 5.15.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 48:46.
92 minutes | Aug 9, 2021
EP 81: Hazel Findlay — The Ego, Fear of Falling, and Mental Training for ‘Magic Line’
Hazel Findlay is a professional climber and mental training coach from the UK, known for her boldness on dangerous and difficult trad routes. We talked about common themes in mental coaching, how the ego manifests in our climbing, supporting your partners, fear of falling, and Hazel’s mental approach while projecting the legendary ‘Magic Line’, her first 5.14c.Support the PodcastBecome a PatronClimbWell Retreat:climbwell.co/retreat-rifleUse code "NUGGET10" for 10% discount!Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/hazel-findlayNuggets:5:00 – Talking across time zones, and Hazel’s home in Wales7:00 – Masters studies, Brexit + covid, and Hazel’s lifestyle these days9:33 – Being trapped on the ferry curing covid11:25 – Weather in Wales16:11 – Priorities, balancing climbing, coaching, and school, and doing stuff that involves others20:52 – Coaching is asking questions, and helping people figure out what they want and how they can get there25:27 – The ego27:42 – How the ego manifests in our climbing, and loosening our attachment to outcomes30:52 – Patron Question from Tyler: What type of people are most likely to seek coaching?33:42 – Patron Question from Tyler: Differences between men and women (in general) when it comes to fear of falling37:05 – Patron Question from Tyler: Advice when supporting someone who is working on their mental game?40:37 – More resources on fear of falling41:32 – Patron Question from Kellen: Differences between advanced and new climbers when it comes to mental training needs.43:17 – Patron Question from Will: How to balance between confidence vs. cockiness, and cultural differences in confidence48:46 – Magic Line description54:51 – Hazel’s mental practice while climbing Magic Line58:18 – Jasna’s email, and what inspired Hazel about Magic Line1:04:19 – Question from Jasna: How did Hazel prepare for the possibility of failure?1:07:37 – Keeping your head and climbing better1:08:40 – Daily mental practices 1:11:20 – Hazel’s thoughts on the lack of publicity of Magic Line1:15:17 – Patron Question from Jen: Any advice from Hazel’s shoulder surgery and recovery?1:24:03 – Patron Question from AnnaMarie: Most memorable climb? 1:25:03 – Next El Cap route?1:25:56 – Escaping to Greece during covid, and her upcoming trip to the states1:29:14 – How to connect with Hazel1:30:18 – Gratitude
96 minutes | Aug 2, 2021
EP 80: Robb Wolf — Prioritizing Protein, the Importance of Sleep, and a Case for a Meat Inclusive Diet
Robb Wolf is a former research biochemist and 2x New York Times best-selling author of The Paleo Solution and Wired To Eat. We talked about his breakfast, how he tackles nutrition with his two kids, his path to the paleo diet, why low-carb is not necessarily ideal for hard-charging athletes, the importance of protein and sleep, and about his latest book Sacred Cow.Support the PodcastBecome a PatronJoin the Facebook GroupShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/robb-wolfNuggets:3:17 – Overview of the conversation5:22 – Robb’s breakfast breakdown9:22 – Savory breakfast, protein, and how Robb navigates nutrition with his kids13:49 – Robb’s background in biochemistry, studying cancer, ulcerative colitis, and his path to ancestral diets and paleo in 199817:34 – Establishing the 1st and 4th Crossfit Affiliate gyms, working with athletes on their nutrition, and helping normal people with complex health issues22:13 – Why I (Steven) appreciate Robb’s mindset around learning and coaching, and some of the issues Robb witnessed with hard-charging Crossfit athletes, and when low-carb and fasting might be inappropriate30:04 – Common symptoms other than leanness that can be tied to our diets36:00 – Biggest bang-for-your-buck recommendations from Robb related to diet and lifestyle (protein and sleep) 39:51 – The importance of sleep, and the effects of sleep deprivation42:34 – Robb’s parallel sleep universe44:14 – Practical recommendations for a climber at a burger joint, and Robb’s breakfast club46:46 – Protein powders and supplements vs. whole foods51:05 – Sacred Cow, a case for better meat, and breaking down the carbon and methane life cycle of beef production1:02:33 – Water use for beef and almonds1:06:00 – Putting on your high school debate hat, and reversing desertification with ruminant animals1:09:17 – Forbes article, and how big food and big pharma benefit from a meatless planet (and why that should concern us)1:11:21 – Is the solution still to eat “less” meat? 1:21:09 – Patron Question from Max: Are hotdogs Paleo?1:21:59 – Patreon Question from Yoni: How does Robb challenge his own beliefs and biases? 1:28:05 – LMNT electrolytes and The Healthy Rebellion1:31:33 – Gratitude
33 minutes | Jul 29, 2021
(Teaser) Follow-Up: Ron Kauk — Listener Q&A, Who Punched John Bachar, and a Plane Full of Weed
This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ron Kauk. We tackled listener questions about bouldering without crash pads, favorite routes, the legendary “fight” in camp 4, the influence of native culture, how to stay present when projecting, and the plane that crashed in Lower Merced Pass Lake in 1977.Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:47:11.
122 minutes | Jul 26, 2021
EP 79: Tyler Nelson — A Deep Dive Into Blood Flow Restriction (BFR), Finger Training, and Doughnut Eating
Dr. Tyler Nelson is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance and specializes in tendon loading, strengthening, and rehabilitation. We talked about blood flow restriction training (BFR), and how it can be used for injury rehab, active recovery, or getting stronger. We also talked about finger training, and why most hangboard protocols are more similar than different.Support the PodcastBecome a PatronJoin Facebook GroupShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-nelsonNuggets:2:18 – Doughnuts and wiffle ball6:08 – Overview of the conversation, and Tyler’s dad11:53 – Chiropractic medicine and watching his dad help people as a kid14:48 – Tyler’s education16:38 – Starting to climb in college18:43 – Wanting to work with athletes, and studying tendinopathy21:06 – Tyler’s path to C4HP (Camp 4 Human Performance) and the work he does now25:48 – Root cause28:29 – Tyler’s most common recommendation: more variation32:33 – How BFR (blood flow restriction) was created37:31 – What BFR looks like, what’s happening, and why it works45:41 – How you would use BFR for a shoulder injury, and literal vs. physiological intensity51:36 – How you would use BRF to rehab a pulley injury54:18 – Why Tyler underpressurized the cuffs the first time he does BFR with an athlete56:33 – Should you try BRF at home?58:43 – A BRF protocol Tyler tried for finger strength training1:02:40 – How you might use BRF for training (big picture)1:05:20 – How often should you use BFR?1:07:03 – Repeaters vs. max hangs, and how to think about long-term finger training1:12:15 – Why is BRF useful as a short-term recovery tool?1:15:02 – Using BRF prior to your sessions, and for warming up for hard climbing 1:18:31 – Finger training doesn’t need to be complicated1:20:09 – Density hangs1:22:58 – Emil Abrahamsson, Keith Bar, and the “No Hangs” hangboard protocol1:31:20 – The optimal loading range for tendon pathologies, and why most strength protocols are more similar than they are different1:34:45 – Tendon stiffness, and how unloading can stiffen the system1:38:58 – Speculating about physiological explanations for why Emil’s program worked so well1:40:58 – Don’t get sweaty and tired on the hangboard, and separating hangboard training from our climbing workouts 1:44:58 – Finger anatomy, condiles, bone lengths, customized finger training1:52:33 – Doughnut eating1:53:46 – New tattoo1:55:03 – Guitar riffs1:57:20 – Tyler’s wife
105 minutes | Jul 19, 2021
EP 78: Jason Kehl — Karate Screams, Chronology of Hairstyles, and Bouldering with Cargo Nets
Jason Kehl is a professional rock climber known for his highball bouldering ascents, and unique artistic expression. We talked about karate and how screaming helps his climbing, roof climbing in his parents' basement, a chronology of his haircuts, vans he’s lived in, having kids, bouldering with cargo nets in Hueco Tanks, and notable highball ascents like ‘Evilution’ and ‘The Fly’.Support the PodcastBecome a PatronJoin Facebook GroupShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jason-kehlNuggets:2:05 – Karate6:48 – Power screaming and made-up words9:20 – ‘Count to Six and Die’ 10:47 – Growing up in a small town in Maryland, climbing trees, the basement home wall, and Jason’s go-to move15:53 – Parental support16:34 – Jason’s journey to bouldering, and climbing ‘Evilution’20:25 – Getting noticed for highballing, and bouldering ‘The Fly’ 25:15 – Joe’s Valley27:29 – Jason in High School, pocket protectors, and the weird kid’s lunch table30:51 – Developing his image, sponsorship, and performing for an audience32:45 – The competition disguise33:50 – Jason’s theme song35:25 – A chronicle of Jason’s hairstyles42:30 – The Dreaded Wudan Mullet43:30 – A chronicle of Jason’s vans47:35 – Falling in love with Hueco, and climbing in the summer52:30 – Are there any FAs left in Hueco?55:37 – Having kids, and focusing your time1:06:38 – Cargo nets1:17:35 – Social Media, and being a professional climber1:25:44 – Patron Question from Logan: What was the most difficult part of dropping everything to be a pro climber?1:28:01 – Odd jobs1:29:39 – Patron Question from Will: How did the NE influence his climbing? 1:33:16 – Patron Question from Nick: Do you ever go back and repeat dangerous climbs you’ve done before?1:35:53 – Gratitude1:37:40 – Don’t give away the beta1:41:22 – Reminders and stuff I’m excited about
123 minutes | Jul 12, 2021
EP 77: Allison Vest — A Competitor’s Mindset, Fun Challenges, and the Secret to One-Arm Hangs
Allison Vest is a 3x Canadian National Champion in bouldering. We talked about her mindset after a recent competition, moving to SLC and training with her roommate Kyra Condie, goals and confidence, the downward spiral of failure, her training schedule, the secrets to one-arm hangs and campusing, having fun, Instagram challenges, and learning how to topout boulders.Support the PodcastBecome a PatronJoin Facebook GroupShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/allison-vestNuggets:3:24 – The climbing closet4:55 – World cup debrief, and the post-comp headspace11:23 – A mix of emotions12:49 – The motivation of a competition climber17:30 – Goals, confidence, and failure23:48 – How Allison and Kyra debrief competitions, and opposite personalities 24:40 – The benefit of not being teammates28:09 – Growing up in Canada and meeting Kyra Condie32:30 – Salt Lake City as the epicenter of training35:58 – Playfulness and “Fail Friday”41:47 – Instagram Challenges (backpack and shorts dynos45:06 – The standing splits challenge47:33 – Combining training with play52:43 – Priorities vs. powering through, and how Allison got the nickname “Big Al” 59:26 – Allison’s training volume, and comparing different high-level climbers1:03:11 – Campusing 1:05:42 – One-arm hangs1:16:25 – Shoulder strength1:17:41 – Christian Core’s hangboard philosophy1:20:07 – Grip positions1:21:52 – Allison’s hangboard schedule, and many different approaches that work1:25:38 – Starting to climb outside more1:27:36 – Topouts1:38:09 – How outdoor climbing compliments competition training1:45:20 – Patron Question from Jimmy: Most memorable competition moment?1:47:01 – Patron Question (anonymous): What does she miss the most about Vancouver/Squamish? And the least? 1:50:47 – Patron Question from Jordan: Can you introduce me to KJ Apa?1:52:31 – Jonas Brothers, Jumanji, and Robin Williams1:54:09 – Best decisions1:55:10 – Competition self-talk1:57:07 – Advice for young competitors1:58:06 – “More doesn’t always mean better.”1:58:45 – What is standing between Allison and the 2024 Olympics?2:00:01 – Grateful for community
12 minutes | Jul 8, 2021
(Teaser) Follow-Up: Shanjean Lee — Free Climbing El Cap
This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Shanjean Lee. We talked about her recent free ascent of ‘Freerider’ on El Cap in Yosemite, and had some good laughs along the way. SJ also shared some of the biggest mental challenges she faced during the ascent, and a very “memorable” (and hilarious) moment from the side of the big cheese. You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 50:27.
33 minutes | Jul 7, 2021
A Call from Ethan
Ethan missed the Q&A and had a question he wanted to ask me.
72 minutes | Jul 5, 2021
EP 76: Q&A 2 — Party Tricks vs. Useful Exercises, Training for Long-Term Goals, and Octopus Wrestling
In Q&A 2, I tackle patron questions about party tricks vs. useful exercises, training for long-term goals and what I am doing to train for Just Do It, how to prepare our bodies for tweaky moves, podcast behind-the-scenes secrets, my experience with feeling light vs. feeling strong, how I manage my weight after an eating disorder, favorite workouts for sport climbing, octopus wrestling, and much more.Become a Patron: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Facebook Group:facebook.com/groups/thenuggetclimbingPrivate Q&As:thenuggetclimbing.com/coachingShow Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-2Nuggets:00:00 – Introduction, Patreon, New Facebook Group, and Private Q&As05:18 – Scott’s Question: Party tricks vs. useful exercises?11:05 – Brandon’s Question: How are you training for ‘Just Do It’? 20:49 – Nolan’s Question: Regarding JDI, which skills/strengths fall short for you, and which ones do you think are adequate? 23:56 – Nolan’s Question: Can you build your sport climbing pyramid and bouldering pyramid at the same time?29:02 – Conner’s Question: Is your current lifestyle (van, travel, podcast, etc.) financially sustainable? 31:11 – Jimmy’s Question: Favorite workouts for transitioning from boulder to sport mode?34:40 – Liam’s Question: How do we balance climbing or training in safe positions, with preparing our bodies for tweaky moves?37:20 – Alec’s Question: What does the edit process look like for you?38:20 – Alec’s Question: What do you talk about in your pre-show call?39:30 – Alec’s Question: Do you have any insights into learning to climb fast?41:40 – Alec’s Question: Do you have any proud ascents from Hueco?43:03 – Alec’s Question: How do you do weight training on the road?43:54 – Alec’s Question: Area’s you’ll plan on climbing in for the rest of the year?44:50 – Jeff’s Question: How does the sensation of feeling light compare to feeling strong?49:30 – David’s Question: How do you manage your weight, and how do you manage your thoughts linked to your eating disorder?53:54 – Emma’s Question: How can I get better at climbing technique? Is it as simple as climbing more?58:00 – Emma’s Question: What exercises beyond the hangboard are most useful for bouldering strength?1:00:12 – Casey’s Question: Any supplements you take? 1:02:02 – Casey’s Question: Tips for focusing before hard efforts on an onsight?1:03:38 – Casey’s Question: Any thoughts on where you’d like to settle eventually?1:04:33 – Casey’s Question: Any trashy TV you’ve been addicted to, or are you somehow immune?1:05:52 – Casey’s Question: How much do you love watching good dancers on the internet?1:06:34 – Casey’s Question: MAA match between 800 lb octopus and an 800 lb raccoon, who wins?1:07:27 – Casey’s Question: What are you grateful for?
117 minutes | Jun 28, 2021
EP 75: John Long — Yosemite Tales, the Love of Writing, and Opening Up About Alcoholism
John Long is an American rock climber and author, and one of the original “Stonemasters”. We talked about his early climbing at Tahquitz and Suicide Rock, life in Yosemite in the early 70s, climbing The Nose in a day with Bridwell and Westbay, most humbling moments, John’s new book Icarus Syndrome, and his recent article about alcoholism and drug abuse in climbing.Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/john-longNuggets:3:33 – Nose picking, John’s nickname “Largo”, growing up in Indio CA, and being a part of two worlds6:56 – The state of climbing in 1953, John’s early sports, white water rafting, and hearing stories about climbing10:37 – Getting hooked on climbing12:07 – Climbing at Tahquitz Rock in 1971, and jumping on board with new-age climbing17:47 – Paisano Overhang30:23 – Hangover38:43 – Life in Yosemite in the 70s, and the rise of free climbing47:04 – Camp 4 as a Babylon of rogues and boys club49:28 – Jim Bridwell54:23 – The Nose in a day59:58 – Question from Ron: The bivy at the base of the Gold Wall.1:04:08 – The cafeteria 1:06:54 – The Bob Lock Memorial Route1:13:11 – Transitioning away from being “Joe Climber”1:15:18 – Patron Question from Logan: Most humbling climbing moment?1:19:12 – The present vs. the past, and gravity as the great leveler1:21:56 – Question from Lena: What is more valuable in climbing, being a jack of all trades or a master of one?1:24:05 – Writing, Hollywood, and Rogue’s Babylon1:30:19 – John’s writing practice1:32:01 – Alcoholism and substance abuse 1:45:01 – Icarus Syndrome1:53:03 – Gifts and wrinkles1:54:01 – Gratitude
32 minutes | Jun 24, 2021
(Teaser) Follow-Up: William Woodward — Sailing Stories, Vanlife Tips, and How to Wash Dishes
This is a teaser of a follow-up call with William Woodward. We talked about William’s sailing trip to Hawaii, living at sea for a month, being present, navigating digital minimalism as a business owner, top vanlife tips, how William and I each do our dishes, beta for showering, wiping your butt with wet wipes, my favorite things in my van, and what’s next.You can support the podcast and get access to follow-up conversations for $5 per month on Patreon at patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing. The full version of this follow-up call is 1:34:55.
78 minutes | Jun 21, 2021
EP 74: Tom Randall on Patience, Finger Training, and the Late Night Climbing Show
Tom Randall is one of the Wide Boyz, and the cofounder of Lattice Training. We talked about Tom’s cellar, meeting Ollie Torr and starting a coaching company, how he and Ollie trained each other's weaknesses, having patience, key shoulder exercises, hangboard principles, stories from the Late Night Climbing Show, and Tom shared his insights into my own finger strength journey.Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-randallNuggets:3:35 – The cellar 6:47 – Patron Question from Felix: Why did Tom start Lattice Training, and how important is data? 11:25 – Meeting Ollie Torr and testing his finger strength14:15 – How Tom helped Ollie improve his endurance and efficiency, and a message about patience18:19 – What Tom did to get strong23:14 – Key TRX and rings exercises for the shoulders28:30 – My finger strength journey, and Tom’s insight into my training habits37:59 – Finger training methodology, and off-season vs in-season training45:50 – Is increasing training capacity (work capacity) a good goal?49:20 – Hangboard protocol principles54:47 – Patron Question from Sarah: Should new climbers “just climb” rather than train?59:29 – Question from Steve McClure: Common deficiencies in route climbers who want to improve their standard?1:02:39 – Question from Vijay: Relationship between finger strength and grade?1:04:12 – Question from Lena: Favorite non-crack climb?1:05:03 – Question from Lena: Most horrible crack climb you’ve ever done?1:05:55: Bonus question from Lena: If you could put Jacob Schubert on any crack climb, which would you choose?1:06:35 – Question from Nick: Balancing fun and hard work1:08:41 – The Late Night Climbing Show1:14:42 – The Lattice YouTube channel1:16:02 – Gratitude
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