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Steven Dimmitt AKA ‘The Nugget Climbing Podcast’ is the founder and owner of one of the hottest (and most interesting) interview shows in the climbing industry right now. It has only been going just over 2yrs but has already had a huge impact on the climbing community and features tonnes of well-chosen and crafted interviews with pros, coaches and climbing personalities.   His show has featured some of the great climbers of all time and clients we’ve also tested or trained ourselves - including people like Ben Moon, Hazel Findlay and Steve McClure. Steven was also a client of ours at Lattice, some years ago, but connected with us again recently with Tom Randall as a guest on his own show.  This got us thinking, if we’ve got someone who’s spent the last 2 years interviewing some of the world’s best climbers and most interesting members of the community, then surely he’s observed some patterns and commonalities between all these individuals?  In this episode, Tom chats to Steven about some of the guests on the show, how he pulls information from his sources and has utilised it in his own climbing or with his own clients and finally what he’s learnt from his experiences of living and working on the road whilst trying to perform.  Find out more about Steven’s podcast here and his Patreon here. You can also find him on Instagram here!  The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Today Tom Randall talks with Anoushé Husain, who just set the Guinness World Record for the greatest vertical distance climbed on a climbing wall, one-handed, using the same hand in an hour.Anoushé had joined Tom for a podcast in early 2021 on the topic of overcoming setbacks, as life keeps sending her curveballs. However, this athlete has just become more resilient and stronger than ever.  So today's podcast will go into the mindset and training leading to this new world record, from goal setting to the strategies she uses to overcome though times and find her own opportunities.So get ready to get pumped with this podcast! Details of what the Guinness Record involves.  The initial formulation of the plan and how the process looked. The key to staying on track, despite setbacks. Does Anoushé set herself up for success and prepare for setbacks? What did she get out of this project? Advice on how to find opportunities when you get setbacks in your own journey. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

After our recent interview with training legend Eric Horst, we've got another major contributor to training, performance and climbing rehab on the Lattice Podcast - this week we are chatting to Tyler Nelson, AKA Camp 4 Human Performance. Tyler's content on Instagram really gets people thinking, as he explores new approaches to rehab and climbing performance.  His curiosity for evidence-based practice makes him an unstoppable energy for trying things others could never think of!Since a lot of Tyler's work aligns with what we do here at Lattice, Tom Randall sat down with Tyler to get his thoughts on the following topics: Which sports away from climbing does Tyler draw knowledge from, and what are the nuances of this? What are climbers currently doing that concerns him injury-wise, and how can they prevent / improve this? What is the future for the use of training and assessment, and the tools/gadgets/apps related to it? The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Pull up a chair and grab yourself a line of developer code, you're about to listen to a bit of the story all about the origins of Crimpd!  Tom Randall sat down with one of the founders of Crimpd, Peter Klimek, to take a step back in time to where things all started between Lattice and Crimpd. They discuss how the partnership came about, all the way through to where we're looking to go in the future and where training and technology could potentially go.  This one's very much of a 'behind the scenes' chat of all things Lattice & Crimpd, so if you're not aware of what the Crimpd App actually is, go and download it right now so you know what they're talking about!   Topics covered: 1. Peter’s background in IT and tech and how he got into app development from cyber security. 2. The origin story behind Crimpd, the collaboration with Lattice and how it all happened. 3. What are the key features to getting an app experience right and how does this relate to training. 4. What is Crimpd next developing.  5. What he would advise to anyone interested in working in the tech sector. 6. What is the future of apps and tech in climbing, and its influence on training. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this podcast Maddy talks to James Spragg, a cycling coach and physiologist, about energy systems. James talks through the different energy systems, the relationship between intensity and energy system contribution, takes a deep dive into the aerobic energy system and how to train it effectively, and talks about profiling our energy systems in order to inform training. Topics covered: 1:30 - A bit about James and his journey in cycling, academia and coaching 3:35 - James’ PhD 7:30 - Overview of energy systems  13:06 - Energy systems are synergistic 14:01 - The hyperbolic force-time relationship 18:03 - The relationship between intensity and energy system contribution 21: 40 - Cause of muscle fatigue 27:45 - The aerobic system and sustainable exercise 29:52 - The importance of capillarisation and training the aerobic system 37:30 - Lactate. The myth demystified.  42:09 - Pump, RPE and the feeling associated with training the aerobic system in long duration and interval sessions 46:00 - Why power endurance doesn’t maximise aerobic system development 50:00 - The glycolytic system; discussion of adaptation pathways 55:44 - Recovery from aerobic base sessions and frequency 58:00 - Getting the aerobic base training in. Spinning plates in training. 1:00:32 - What impacts rate of adaptation in aerobic training 1:03:00 - Previous training history and getting back to a certain level faster 1:06:00 - Different ways to get to the same goal. Exploring different approaches effectiveness through testing, intervention, retesting 1:13:05 - Different training scenarios and approach people can take to address training for a sport project 1:24:36 - Balancing strength and enduranceThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this podcast, Maddy talked to Emily Elgar, who is a pelvic health physiotherapist based at Katie Bell Physio in Sheffield. They talk about topics relating to pregnancy and postpartum, such as pelvic health, delivery and recovery, and pelvic organ prolapse. Emily talks about her approach to pelvic health during pregnancy and postpartum, from her perspective as a life coach as well as for exercise. Emily also shared a number of great resources that support this conversation that can be found in the show notes.  Some of the topics covered are; The changing landscape of pelvic physio in relation to pregnancy and postpartum Back and pelvic girdle pain and how we can manage it The pelvic floor; finding it, training it and timeframes Delivery and initial recovery postpartum C-section recovery Pelvic organ prolapse.  This is a massive area, with so much to delve into. If you are interested in strength training then check out our podcast with Joy Black, or our podcast with UMI-Health about the pelvic floor. Resources from Emily: Reframing return-to-sport postpartum: the 6 Rs framework https://bjsm.bmj.com/content/54/6/360 https://www.acog.org/clinical/clinical-guidance/committee-opinion/articles/2020/04/physical-activity-and-exercise-during-pregnancy-and-the-postpartum-period Home Page - Burrell Education Home Page - Squeezy (squeezyapp.com) www.hlp-therapy.co.uk  (c-section)  Its You Babe V2 Supporter | StressNoMore   (Prolapse support) Kegel Exerciser with App | Perifit - Perifit (United Kingdom)  Elvie Trainer | Smart Pelvic Floor Exerciser and App | Elvie | Elvie The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

This episode is a BIG one! We’ve got on the show today, Eric Horst, one of the original founding fathers of modern training theory for climbing and a total legend of the climbing world in general…. This episode is going to be hardcore training and more training!  In many ways, what we’ve tried to achieve at Lattice has been built upon the foundation of work, theory and practice of climbers like Eric who have made a significant contribution to the industry’s knowledge via books, podcasts, videos and many articles.  As there’s an almost unlimited amount of items we’d like to cover in this interview, we’ve tried to distil down Eric’s knowledge, opinion and experience into a number of ‘big ticket’ items that relate to many of us, when it comes to climbing training and performance. Sit back, grab yourself a cup of tea and enjoy…  Key topics in this episode: Endurance Strength Performance Profiling  Fingerboarding System boards For anything related to PhysiVantage please check out Eric’s in depth website over at: https://physivantage.com/ The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

You DM'd us, and we have answered, so today we have the guy who gained everyone's attention in early 2021 with his infamous 30-day fingerboard routine. We cover a broad range of topics, which should answer all of the questions you sent to us via Instagram, and other social media! Emil is an incredibly experienced climber, representing Sweden in competitions, climbing outdoors, and of course sharing his journey through his Youtube channel. Recording his training, and sharing his big goals of sending "The Big Island", Emil really shows his versatility as a climber. So, don't expect this interview to be all about fingerboarding! Lastly, he has recently made the choice to move full time into a 'van-life' way of living, committing to full-time climbing and filmmaking. Other than his fingerboard experiment, we will also discuss how he balances indoors vs outdoor climbing and what he’s experienced during his transition to van living.  How Emil's fingerboarding idea started Emil's reaction to the feedback from the fingerboarding video Will he repeat or change the fingerboarding procedure from the initial video? How this fingerboarding procedure affected his strength How he balances indoors with outdoors How Emil's height or weight affects this performance Where the focus for "The Big Island" came from Footwork Van life Internal and external expectations with YouTube So far what have been the pros and cons of this change Where Emil sees himself in the near future   The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Welcome to part 2 of this interview with the climbing legend Dave MacLeod. This week Lattice coach Maddy delved even deeper into Dave's climbing and training approach, by diving straight into chatting about his famous nutrition experiments and approaches to balancing a keto diet with his own training and climbing.   We also hear more about Dave's personal standpoints on nutrition and the mental aspects related to dieting, particularly in the climbing world.  As providers of nutrition services and information to the climbing community, we know all too well about the risks and the strong feelings that can be attached to dieting*, especially alongside high intensity training, so this is also covered in this interview.  Don't forget to catch up on Part 1, where Dave and Maddy discussed; 📌Dave's approach to training and climbing📌How he applies his understanding of science to his practice📌How the mental side of climbing evolved for him📌His process on hard climbs and headpoints 📌The consideration of specificity in training for climbing goals 📌Stepping things up to 9a+ 🔥*Please note that nutrition is highly individual and if you are struggling with disordered eating you should seek the help of a qualified professional. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project. 

In the Lattice Training podcast today we have another guest from the arm lifting world whose long term track record of training, competing and record breaking accomplishments is rarely rivalled across the grip strength sports. It’s rare that we get to interview someone who’s really been focusing on something so specific to climbing performance - AKA grip strength - for over 20 yrs.  Eric Roussin, is from Canada and has a long history of competitive arm wrestling, having started as a teenager in 1996 and has been competing in Grip Sports for just over 10 yrs. He won the Canadian overall National Title 5yrs in a row and also a gold medal in the World Arm Lifting Championships on the Rolling Thunder and has the world record on Napalms Nightmare and 2 arm thick bar lift.   Interestingly, Eric is a blend of competitor and historian so he’s got an incredible knowledge of what’s developed over time and an understanding of training and performance methodology, which at Lattice, we’re always interested to learn more about!  Check out in the show notes at the bottom, some really useful links provided by Eric, who kindly provided us all with some signposting to learn more on this front.  In today’s episode we covered: What got Eric into arm wrestling originally and his formative years of training. What he thinks about grip or hand strength in arm lifting and the repercussions for training methodology or approach.  His thoughts on the differences between arm lifting and arm wrestling. How he trains for grip lifting, rather than grip pulling or hanging. Whether he does any cross-training. How important he thinks strength in the entire kinetic chain is. Are there any common “weak” links he sees? What does the grip sports community think of fingerboarding. What are the King Kong Grip Challenges.  David Horne - site: http://www.davidhorne-gripmaster.com/index.html David Horne Basic training routine video: https://youtu.be/FGuVJAj96SE  Grip Board (the world’s most popular grip strength related forum): www.gripboard.com (event King Kong details can be found in the Grip Contests section) Popular facebook page for all things grip: https://www.facebook.com/groups/330749460395996 Eric’s websites: www.canadagripsport.com & www.thearmwrestlingarchives.com The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Settle down and get comfy because Dave MacLeod is in the house and you are going to want to hear this one! We were recently lucky enough to have Dave MacLeod come down to the Lattice Training HQ and dive into all things climbing and training! In this podcast Dave and Lattice coach Maddy Cope sat down and had a good old chat!  Tune in to find out more about; 📌Dave's approach to training and climbing 📌How he applies his understanding of science to his practice 📌How the mental side of climbing evolved for him 📌His process on hard climbs and headpoints  📌The consideration of specificity in training for climbing goals  📌Stepping things up to 9a+  This interview covers many things in between these topics, so be sure to tune in for so much more - plus we've also split into two parts, so keep an eye out next week for part 2. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Today we have a true legend of finger strength - the one and only Yves Gravelle. He has some of the strongest fingers in the world, pound for pound and has demonstrated this in both the climbing and arm lifting world, whilst also holding down a full time job and the added role of parenting on top of that.  In terms of his climbing, Yves is an International comp athlete, having represented Canada for a number of years, he’s bouldered V15 and repeated and established multiple problems in the double digit range. For Arm Lifting, he is 3 x APL World Champ, the lightest person the lift the Thomas inch dumbbell and has a PB of 105kg on the Rolling Thunder. If you’re someone who’s interested in the opinion, practices and methods of an athlete at the top 0.0001% of their game, when it comes to building strong fingers, then listen in hard!In this episode we cover the following topics: Yves's classic feats of strength. His early climbing years. The tools in the last 20 yrs that he's felt were most effective. How often he trains grip strength.  How he balances that with normal climbing. What has been the role of arm lifting and when he got into it. Are arm lifters doing anything different to climbers? Hang vs lift tools for finger strength training. How he 'transfers' his training strength across into climbing. His balance of low intensity and high volume training. How he trains with limited time and resources.  His tips for climbers getting into their first season of arm lift training. Yves' Sponsors: Bloc shop, Kailas, Tembo, Digit Climbing, Xcult USA, Coyote rock gym His YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/yvesgravelle/videosHis Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/yvesgravelle/?hl=en I’m from Ottawa, Canada Been climbing for 22 years.  Ex Canadian National Bouldering team member. 7-8 time??? 3 x arm lifting World Champion (APL federation) 8C boulder Multiple World records and class world records order  in the sport of Armlifting.  Feats Highlight  - lightest person the lift the Thomas inch dumbbell - 6mm one arm pull-up and deadhang - lattice test edge + 32kg - 105kg on the rolling thunder - 1-5-9 with construction gloves  The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Tom Randall is back with another solo podcast session, following on from the recent "Common Mistake in Endurance Training" that was very popular. Like the previous format, he explores the big issues that climbers will typically have when training or preparing their power endurance.In part 1, he breaks down the critical factor of 'specificity' and why you need to address it on the three fronts of technical, psychological and physical preparation. Ignoring, or wrongly addressing almost any of these elements will significantly impact both the effect of your training and the performance outcomes. Get them right though, as you're talking about huge steps towards success! Technical:1. Rock types and associated movement patterns.2. Specific move types and efficiency within them.3. Learning how to climb fast AND slow at your project/goal gradePsychological:1. Accessing your 'try hard' zone with correct focus and frequency2. Learning to relax to the demands of the goal and not 'wasting' energy. 3. Training to rest appropriate for your project. 4. Chalking up ratios5. Terrain recognition and environmental stress/familiarity6. Fears of heights, exposure and fallingPhysical:1. Pacing for contraction and relaxation ratios.2. Hold size and types relative to muscle activation and soft tissue demands.3. Specificity of project demands on ancillary muscle groups such as core, back and legs.4. Skin and pain conditioning5. Respecting the specificity of volume, intensity and 'section' interval frequency when trainingThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Today’s guest is one of the best climbers in the world right now. He’s redpointed 3 9b+’s and 7 9b’s, and won multiple IFSC world cups. Yes, it is the one and only Stefano Ghisolfi! The journey that this athlete has taken in the sport is a remarkable one, not simply because his incredible grades, but because he has so many relatable actions that many of us can also deploy in our own climbing pathway. Sure, we may not all reach 9b+ or Olympic selections in our life, but at our own personal level there are strategies that pay off ... big time. Those key strategies discussed come down to:1. Playing to your strengths and understanding how you can work on your long term (changeable) weaknesses.2. Building a solid grade pyramid of performance, experience and skill. 3. Appropriate methods for making a change in performance metrics. What strategies actually work for the thing you're trying to alter. 4. Working on your fear and mindset in a performance setting. Around these topics, we discussed - amongst other things: His first competition at 14 and how only 3 years later he’d got a podium and also competed in the Senior world champs and placed 10th in combined.  What his early journey in climbing looked like. How quickly did he go through the grades? His first 9b Lapsus.  His views on repeating some of the world’s hardest routes like Change, Bibliographie, Perfecto Mundo. How important is this process/goal? His repeat of Bibliography and proposed 9b+ grade vs 9c.   How much bouldering does he do compared to sport climbing? Does it change at different times of the year? How does he fit in fingerboard work and other forms of more 'basic' S&C? His fear of heights, falling and exposure.  How does he identify what he wants to work on each season? The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

This episode's guest is professional climber and competition athlete Staša Gejo, who's track record is rarely matched. She has stood in every single position - gold, silver and bronze - across a variety of competitions from World Games, World Champs, European Champs and World Cups, climbed V13 and puts out consistent content on her social channels and YouTube channel which shares her thoughts and journey in climbing.  Her top level track record extends way back from 2015 where as a junior competitor she won the World Junior Champs in bouldering and combined, so there is a big depth of experience and expertise here. What’s so cool about Staša is that not only is she operating at the top end, she's also really good at communicating her thoughts about her journey in the sport. The ups and downs and also what works well when it comes to performance - especially around some recent dialogue on the topic of weight.We talked about: Her experiences with weight control and early journey as a comp athlete. The repercussions of a calorie controlled diet at 1200/day.  How does her healthy weight management look these days. What does her indoor vs outdoor training and performance habit look like. Her thoughts on mixing forms and disciplines for performance and training.  What does her specific finger strength work look like. How much strength work she finds optimal per week.  The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

On today's show we have Kejt Najman, who sits in the 'sweet spot' of training knowledge as she's both a coach and internationally acclaimed athlete. She was World Weighted Pull Up Champion in 2019 & 2022, Polish Champion four years running, has bouldered 7C and sport climbed 7c (before concentrating on her competitions in recent years) and also works as a strength and conditioning coach for climbers. At Lattice we greatly value those who have a blend of sports science and practical knowledge - it's the area where 'science' meets 'art' and 'subjectivity' in training. In another knowledge packed episode Tom explores Kejt's methods and experiences in upper body strength training, how she works on herself as an athlete and also her approach to her own clients. 1. Kejt's original journey as an athlete - couldn't do a single pull up initially! 2. How much she trained in the earlier years and what methods she used.3. Her approach to 'push' vs 'pull' gym work.4. Low specificity vs high specificity training. 5. Kejt's experiences as an elite plant-based athlete. 6. Her next steps and thoughts on training as a 40 year old athlete. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Part 2 of '10 Things That Matter More Than You Think'Climbing performance is fairly complex because there's so many moving parts to the equation and many of the skills take years, if not decades, to perfect. Fortunately, Tom Randall is on the podcast in this episode to give you another 'solo' session on what things really make a difference in climbing your best. In this second part, he dives into a variety of factors that probably don't get enough discussion, but make a massive difference to your climbing. Get over half of these items ticked off and perfected, and you'll probably see 1-2 grades of climbing improvement at your projecting level in a single season.  Hip position Ladders and dogging tactics One Last Go Power training Supportive partners HIPS: How close, how far left or right and how much you throw them. Get strong in the entire ROM TACTICS: Ladders, ab ropes and spotter shoulders for feeling holds, starting higher up, dogging with clip stick, clipping in tight, get a power pulls and many more... ONE LAST GO: Sticking around, trying even when you’ve given up, learning your mind-body connection when you’re at your limit, trying to be the last person to have a go every session.  POWER TRAINING: Execution of strength/force with speed, efficient movement that’s sport specific, power training in 'peak' cycles, trying projects that you can’t do statically SUPPORTIVE PARTNERS: The 'fun' factor, verbal and video feedback, accountability, absorbing your partner's practices.  The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In the words of one of Grip Sport's legends, Eric Roussin, the relative newcomer of Tanner Merkle has seriously ruffled some feathers in the Arm Lifting World. Three years running International King Kong Champion and outright holder of the Captains of Crush Silver Bullet Record, his incredible grip strength showed immediately. Unusually for an elite arm lifter, he was previously a top level US competition climber (2nd at US Boulder Nationals). Tanner transitioned away from high climbing to really explore his gift and passion for grip strength, which clearly set him apart in both climbing and grip sports. Tom sits down with Tanner to explore his early days in climbing, how he transitioned his training through the two sports and where he feels there's transfer and knowledge to be applied across both of the disciplines. This episode is the first a number of interviews we're doing with world famous grip strength athletes, diving into the methods, knowledge and strategies they've evolved over their own journeys to the top. We talk (amongst other things) about: What exactly are Grip Sports and Arm Lifting. What is different about the tools used in this sport compared to climbing? How Tanner transitioned from climbing to Grip Sports.  How to train for Arm Lifting vs pulling or hanging in climbing. His CoC Silver Bullet record.  How he trained for specific records. His thoughts on Cross Training How he tackles training "the entire kinetic chain" in Arm Lifting Issues around weight, mass and how it relates to Grip Sports vs Climbing.  The beat is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Climbing performance is fairly complex because there's so many moving parts to the equation and many of the skills take years, if not decades, to perfect. Fortunately, Tom Randall is on the podcast in this episode to give you another 'solo' session on what things really make a difference in climbing your best. In this 2 parter, he dives into a variety of factors that probably don't get enough discussion, but make a massive difference to your climbing. Get over half of these items ticked off and perfected, and you'll probably see 1-2 grades of climbing improvement at your projecting level in a single season. Obviously, if you're already at a Dave Graham level of obsession and strategy, then this can act as a list to give yourself a big pat on the back as you'll find that he and all the rest of the pros are seriously paying attention to these factors. They are not to be taken lightly!  Shoe choice Skin quality Humidity and wind speed FULL warm up Visualisation SHOES: Heels, toes, downturn, rubber, tightness, stiffness SKIN: How dry, how thick, cuticle pain, smoothness HUMIDITY & WIND: Friction and grip effect, humidity limits, glassy skin, cold vs wind.  FULL WARM UP: Fingers, core (esp posterior chain), flexibility, power, knowing the demands on your goal VISUALISATION: Timescales and frequency of visualisation, how long can you sustain a visualised sequence, internal vs external, hyper-detail  The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this episode we take a dive into the history of climbing training and performance with Peter Beal. With over five decades of climbing and training experience under his belt, we thought there was no better person to talk about what has occurred in the training side of the sport since the 70s and how this has impacted performance at the top end. Peter has been climbing hard since 1977, with a specific focus on bouldering which is unusual given the decade in which he started - it was hardly recognised as its own 'thing' at the time! With ascents up to V12, he is also a contributor across publications like Rock & Ice, UKC, The Alpinist and  also the author of the book - Bouldering: Movement, Tactics and Problem Solving. Peter is a training and performance focused guy, having trained methodically for going on 40 yrs and also operates as a climbing coach for local climbers in Colorado operating right up to the elite end of the scale for just over 20yrs. For all the above mentioned history and background, I thought this would be the perfect person to have on the show to talk about how climbing and performance has changed over the last 5 decades. Peter Beal InstagramPeter Beal's local (amazing!) gym: 1970s Jim Holloway - front levers and gymnastic strength training feats. Ascents of V12-13!  Pete Livesey and training at Leeds wall, raising the standard in leading from E2-E6 Tony Yaniro - FA of Grand Illusion 8a/+ in 1979 1980s Enter John Bachar! 2 arm pull ups at +63kg and 1 arm pull up +5.5kg Moffatt, Bachar etc, all possibly started with the first bit of fingerboard training 1984 C’était Demain V11 – Fontainebleau, by Godoffe  1988 - The campus board & Wolfgang Güllich  1990s 1990 Hubble - 8c+ but maybe the world’s first 9a? Action Directe 9a 1991 The Sheffield Schoolroom -  built in 1993 by Gavin Ellis, Ben Tye and Andy Coish Replicas, system board climbing, systematic endurance training, campus boards, and early fingerboarding all find their ground. 1996 - Open Air by Huber as the first 9a+ (upgraded later from 9a) 2000s 2000-2002 for long and shorter V15s (Hollow Mountain Cave and Monkey Wedding) 2008 - 9b Jumbo Love Indoor Walls really start to have an international impact en masse.  2010s 2012-2013 3 x 9b+ all by Adam Ondra!!  Early 2010-2015 massive explosion in indoor bouldering 2016 - Burden of Dreams V17 – by Nalle Hukkataival  2017 - Silence 9c by Ondra The Moonboard, Kilterboard and Tension Board go big.