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Jewelry Journey Podcast
41 minutes | 6 days ago
Episode 97: How the Millicent Rogers Museum Is Preserving Southwest Jewelry with Goldsmith, David Anderson
As a Taos native and skilled goldsmith, David Anderson has a deep connection to Southwestern jewelry. That connection led him to a position on the board at the Millicent Rogers Museum, and a role repairing the famous socialite’s extensive jewelry collection. He joined the Jewelry Journey Podcast to talk about how Millicent became the foremost Southwestern jewelry collector of her time, his process for repairing her historically significant jewelry, and his own work as a goldsmith and mokume-gane expert. Read the episode transcript here. What you’ll learn in this episode: Who Millicent Rogers was, and how she developed an important collection of Southwestern and Native American jewelry Why Millicent began designing her own jewelry, and why her signature large pieces are an important part of jewelry history How red gold differs from yellow gold, and why much of Millicent’s jewelry was made with this material How David earned a role repairing Millicent’s jewelry, and how he approaches working with significant, one-of-a-kind work Insight into David’s own work as a goldsmith and jeweler, and how he became an expert in mokume-gane About David Anderson David Anderson is widely considered the foremost Taos repair expert, especially heirloom and vintage jewelry. He loves turning antique gems and settings into completely new works of art for his clients, and teaches jewelry making classes in his studio by appointment. David is a native of Taos, New Mexico. His first experiences that led to a lifetime of goldsmithing were at a very early age while tinkering in his father’s workshop on the family ranch. In high school David’s first jewelry experience was with his Navajo friend who instructed him in the process of fixing a turquoise and silver watchband. This interest in intricacy led David to immerse himself in historic and spiritual jewelry styles. His time studying in New Mexico, New York, India, Italy, Egypt and Bali shows itself in dazzling and detailed metalwork. David utilizes an assortment of fabrication techniques in his designs, which include hydraulic die forming, chasing and repoussé, engraving and lapidary techniques. He makes his own mokume gane mixed metal for his carved “Guri Bori” rings. David’s style continues to evolve, but the underlying theme in his work is mastery of technique. Additional resources: Website Instagram Facebook Pintrest Transcript David Anderson. Photo credit: "Taos News photographer" Morgan Timms. Millicent Rogers "Sunset Straws" Necklace, Designed by Millicent Rogers, Repaired by David Anderson. Photo Credit Carmella Quinto "3 Nugget Gold Ring" designed by Millicent Rogers reproduced by David Anderson for the Museum Store. Photo Credit David Anderson "H" Bracelet in sterling silver, Designed by Millicent Rogers, reproduced for the Millicent Rogers Store by David Anderson. Photo Credit David Anderson Grouping of Millicent Rogers jewelry designs "Ulu, Spirit, Double Barr, Group" reproduced for the Millicent Rogers Store by David Anderson. Photo Credit David Anderson Front of Millicent Rogers Museum, Photo credit Courtesy of Millicent Rogers Museum.
46 minutes | 13 days ago
Episode 96: Why Collectors Love to Collect: Understanding Your Behavior, with Author Dr. Shirley Mueller
What you’ll learn in this episode: Why collectors hate missing the chance to buy a piece they love What makes collecting pleasurable, and why fakes, loss and damage can cause so much pain for collectors The difference between collecting and hoarding Why some people want to collect and others don’t, and how that can impact relationships between collectors and non-collectors How Shirley wrote her book, Inside the Head of a Collector: Neuropsychological Forces at Play About Shirley Mueller Shirley M. Mueller, MD is an internationally known collector and scholar of Chinese export porcelain, as well as a physician board-certified in neurology and psychiatry. This latter expertise led her to explore her own intentions while collecting art, which, she discovered, are applicable to all art collectors. This understanding is the motivation for her book, Inside the Head of a Collector: Neuropsychological Forces at Play. In addition to writing books and academic papers, she is frequently invited to present guest lectures and curate exhibitions based on her extensive porcelain collection and the neuropsychology of the art collector. Collectors might know they’re drawn to a certain type of art or jewelry, but they often don’t know why. Shirley Mueller, a physician board certified in neurology and psychiatry and a longtime collector of Chinese export porcelain, wanted to know what made her (and all collectors) tick. Her book, Inside the Head of a Collector: Neuropsychological Forces at Play delves into the neuropsychology that makes collectors want to collect. She joined the Jewelry Journey Podcast to talk about the impulses that keep collectors going, the knowledge that can help collectors make better decisions, and her own journey as an internationally known collector of Chinese export porcelain. Read the episode transcript here. Additional resources: Website Book: Inside a Collector’s Head: Neuropsychological Forces at Play Amazon Store LinkedIn Twitter Transcript
29 minutes | 20 days ago
Episode 95: The Susan Beech Mid-Career Artist Grant: Making Your Application Stand Out with Bonnie Levine, AJF Board Member
What you’ll learn in this episode: What that Susan Beech Mid-Career Artist Grant is and the criteria for applying What the application includes, and Bonnie’s tips for ensuring it is submitted properly What types of proposals catch the judges’ eye Why past winners’ applications were successful, and what they have done with the funds This year’s judges and deadlines Now entering its third round, Art Jewelry Forum’s Susan Beech Mid-Career Artist Grant is an incredible opportunity for mid-career makers, authors, educators, historians, and other art jewelry experts and aficionados. AFJ board member Bonnie Levine has seen every application that has been submitted since 2016, and she’s learned exactly what makes a winning application. She joined the Jewelry Journey Podcast to explain how to apply for the grant, who the award is open to, and her tips for creating a compelling proposal. Transcript About Bonnie Levine: Bonnie Levine is the former co-owner of Hedone Gallery, an online gallery focusing on contemporary art jewelry that is one-of-a-kind or of limited production. She loved and bought contemporary studio jewelry for many years, determined to become a gallerist when she left the corporate world. She is also on the board of Art Jewelry Forum, where she is responsible for administering the organization’s grants for artists.
24 minutes | a month ago
Episode 94: How the Susan Beech Mid-Career Artist Grant Is Helping Push the Boundaries of Art Jewelry with Enthusiastic Art Jewelry Collector, Susan Beech
What you’ll learn in this episode: How Art Jewelry Forum went from a small meetup of art jewelry enthusiasts to an international organization Why Susan wanted to focus her support on mid-career artists, and how she defines what a mid-career artist is What Susan hopes grant recipients and applicants will gain from the award How past winners have used the funds to advance their work About Susan Beech Susan Beech is an avid jewelry collector and longtime member of Art Jewelry Forum. Her extensive collection of art jewelry has been featured in several museum shows, and she was awarded the 2008 McColl Award for her work in expanding the permanent collection of the Mint Museum. She created the Susan Beech Mid-Career Artist Grant in 2016 to provide mid-career artists with the resources to push the boundaries of their work and expand the field of art jewelry. After seeing her children reach middle age and struggle to balance their dreams with work and family life, jewelry collector Susan Beech realized that many jewelry artists face the same challenge. Although there are numerous grants for young, emerging artists, the is a gap in resources for mid-career artists who want to continue their work. This was the inspiration behind Art Jewelry Forum’s Susan Beech Mid-Career Artist Grant, a $20,000 award given to one mid-career artist every other year. Susan joined the Jewelry Journey Podcast to talk about her hopes for grant recipients, why the award isn’t just limited to makers, and how the two past winners have already made an impact. Additional resources AJF Website AJF Facebook AJF Instagram Transcript Photos: Judges, Susan Beech, Daniel Kruger, and Emily Stoehrer First winner of the Susan Beech Mid-Career Grant: Christina Filipe (middle) with Susan Beech (left) and Rebekah Frank (right) Second annual winner of the Susan Beech Mid-Career Grant: Tiff Massey
25 minutes | a month ago
Episode 93: Combining Creativity and Business Savvy: Making Smart Decisions in the Art Jewelry Industry with Multi-Award Winning Artist, Raïssa Bump
What you’ll learn in this episode: Why jewelry is a fascinating part of our daily rituals How Raïssa developed her earring subscription program, and why it’s a viable way for jewelry artists to make steady income What Art Jewelry Forum is, and how it has helped Raïssa and other jewelry professionals and enthusiasts learn and connect How a developing a studio practice is similar to cooking About Raïssa Bump Born in 1980, Raïssa Bump earned a BFA in metals from Rhode Island School of Design in 2003 and studied jewelry with Giampaolo Babetto at Alchimia in Florence, Italy. She has been actively involved in the contemporary jewelry field and is well versed at making both intricate one-of-a-kind pieces and beautiful edition collections. Raïssa’s work is collected widely and has been included in various Lark Book publications and in the pages of Metalsmith magazine. She exhibits with galleries such as Sienna Patti Contemporary, teaches workshops at Penland School of Crafts , Haystack Mountain School of Crafts, Arrowmont School of Arts and Crafts, and is on the board of Art Jewelry Forum. Raïssa grew up in the Hudson River Valley and currently lives and works in a storefront in San Francisco, CA, with her husband Jonathan Anzalone. Additional resources Website Facebook Instagram Transcript Photos: Triangle Drop CONSTELLATION Necklace sterling silver, glass beads Catcher Mica Necklace- Sterling Silver, Mica Mica used is a composite mica which is a combination of two natural substances: the mineral mica and shellac (a resin secreted by the female lac bug). Resulting mica is unique in color, I use a greyish smoke and a golden color. Please understand that part of the beauty in working with any kind of mica is its one-of-a-kind nature. Each disc is slightly different than the next.
14 minutes | a month ago
Episode 92: Art Jewelry in Sweden: Stockholm’s Platina Gallery with Sofia Björkman Artist and Gallery Owner
What you’ll learn in this episode: Why metalsmithing techniques can be useful even when using other materials. Why the global art jewelry community is more tight-knit than other artistic fields. How jewelry’s interactive nature separates it from other fine arts. Sofia’s future plans for her gallery, Platina. About Sofia Björkman Sofia Bjorkman didn’t intend to create a globally known art jewelry gallery when she opened Platina in Stockholm 20 years ago; she just wanted to have a space where she and her friends could showcase their work. However, Platina quickly became known for its collaborative exhibitions with jewelry artists from around the world. Sofia joined the Jewelry Journey Podcast to talk about the history and future of Platina, her own work as a jewelry designer, and why she thinks the global art jewelry community is so tight-knit. Transcript Additional resources Website Facebook Instagram Photos: Annette Dam Necklace "Taking the liberty" #4 2019 Silver, pearls, ribbon Annika Pettersson Necklace "Royal Resolution" 2019 Reconstructed stone, silver Christer Jonsson Necklace "Frida" 2018 Silver, titanium, enamel, pate du verre, glass Christer Jonsson Necklace "Garden of Death Silver" 1996 Titanium Heejoo Kim Brooch 2019 copper, enamel Helena Johansson Lindell Necklace Collar 2020 Plastic/cotton cord/leather/rivets Julia Walters Necklace 2017 / 2020 "Hotlips" stainless steel, chromed Karin Roy Andersson Necklace 2018 "New flesh" silver, steel, thread Lena Bergestad Bracelet Titanium Silver Linnea Eriksson Necklace "Tribute" 2014 Steel, silver, paint Sofia Björkman Necklace "Garden" 2020 PLA, steel, paint Sofia Björkman Brooch 2019 Silver, steel (seam rippers) Sofia Björkman Necklace "Garden" 2020 PLA, steel, paint
32 minutes | a month ago
Episode 91: Genre-Defying Jewelry: Overcoming Limiting Beliefs with John Moore Multi-Award Winning Artist
What you’ll learn in this episode: How John created Lacewing, his award-winning large-scale neckpiece The unexpected effects that winning an award can have on a jewelry artist’s career Why film can be a better medium than still photography to capture jewelry Why the key to artistic success is unlearning the limiting beliefs we learn in adulthood How the current climate may create opportunity for new growth About John Moore: With unbridled self-expression at its core, the work of multi-award-winning artist John Moore inhabits a nameless realm of possibility without frontiers. Currently represented by Elisabetta Cipriani Gallery in London and Charon Kransen in New York, he is a unique and evolving presence in the world of art jewellery. His distinctive creations have appeared at high profile fairs and exhibitions in the UK, Europe and the USA, including Masterpiece London, Design Miami, SOFA Chicago, MIART Milan, PAD Monaco and PAD London. Moore’s work has been recognized with a number of awards, most notably The Goldsmiths Company Award both in 2016 and 2019. Affectionately known as The Jewellery Oscar, it is ‘only given when, in the [Goldsmiths Craft and Design] Council’s judgement, an entry achieves the highest standard of creative design and originality.’ Commissioned by international collector Tuan Lee, renowned for her taste in statement pieces, his 2019 winning entry, Lacewing, is the latest in the Verto series. Made from sterling silver discs embellished with 48 diamonds set with 18ct gold, Lacewing takes precious jewellery into a new realm, commanding attention and challenging the notion of jewellery as an accessory. Additional resources: Website Instagram Video: A World Away Video: Lacewing Episode Transcript
30 minutes | a month ago
Episode 90: Design For Yourself First: Following Your Passion To Create Expressive Jewelry wtih Sylvie Corbelin Paris-based Fine Jewelry Designer
What you’ll learn in this episode: The two ways to go about creating a piece of jewelry, and which process Sylvie uses. Why earrings aren’t just for the person wearing them. How Sylvie works with unusual materials, like bamboo and uncommon stones. Sylvie’s advice for emerging jewelers. About Sylvie Corbelin: Antiques dealer turned gemologist Sylvie Corbelin is renowned for intricate, exquisitely detailed designs that celebrate jewels in many forms. Antique and rare stones feature prominently in Sylvie Corbelin jewelry, delivering many designs that are truly one of a kind. Ethereal, graceful subjects such as butterflies are a prominent theme, expertly realized on striking mobile earrings or lifelike brooches. Visually stimulating and dripping with luxury elements, Sylvie Corbelin jewelry delivers statements that will be talked about for generations. She launched her eponymous fine jewelry brand in 2007 and today works out of her studio in the Le Marais district of Paris. Additional resources Website Facebook Instagram Pintrest Transcript Photos of Sylvie's work:
18 minutes | 2 months ago
Episode 89: Shaping Inspiration in Clay: How One Jewelry Artist Honed Her Process with Loretta Lam
What you’ll learn in this episode: Why polymer clay is the perfect medium for anyone interested in color. How polymer clay became popular in the 70s and 80s. Why it’s important for art students and craftspeople to understand the principles of design. How Loretta finds her inspiration and how she encourages others to do the same. Loretta’s advice for people entering creative careers. About Loretta Lam As a child, Loretta Lam would play with her mother's vintage button box, making extravagant necklaces for dress-up games. As she grew up, Lam 's love of jewelry design never left her, and it all came together years later when she found polymer clay. With its limitless possibilities for bead shape and color, it allowed Lam to realize her artistic dreams. Lam works directly from a strong color inspiration which informs the millefiori patterns that become the surface design. She forms sculptural base shapes one at a time, then veneers them with thin sheets of the patterned clay. She takes great care in the design and craftsmanship of each element and finished piece of jewelry. Lam is a graduate of SUNY New Paltz's renowned BFA metalsmithing program, where she focused on enamels and painting. In 1999, Lam started experimenting with polymer clay and found the direct access to color she'd always dreamed of. It has turned into a love affair which is always fresh and new. Transcript Additional Resources: Website Instagram Facebook Pintrest Flickr Photos: More info about her book here! Under Cover: is a brooch that is evocative of a nest. It draws you in by mixing a domed and convex form. It's about safety and secrets and comfort. 2.75" in diameter and .6" deep. Polymers with a nickel silver pinback. The Red Pod: I love working in asymmetry. Finding unusual ways to create movement and balance is my kind of artistic challenge. This necklace uses color, repetition, and isolation to create the dynamic tensions. 22" of polymer beads with coconut shell, ceramic and wooden spacer beads and a covered barrel clasp. Sculpted Leaf Choker: This piece is hand sculpted in very light polymer and covered with patterned veneers. It's part fantasy and part reality but shows all my love for the natural world. 4.5" sculpted form strung on steel cable with a friction clasp. Copper and Verdigris is a beautiful interpretation of Autumn in New York. The colors and textures of my native woodlands and that cozy feeling of the changing seasons. 8" of unique hollow-formed beads on sterling, embellished with millefiori patterning.
34 minutes | 2 months ago
Episode 88: A Century of Mexican Silver Jewelry Design: How Taxco Continues to Innovate with Dr. Penny Morrill
What you’ll learn in this episode: Why Taxco became a hotbed for silver design and innovation. How the Mexican Silver Renaissance began, and what factors influenced it. How William Spratling’s silver jewelry designs made their way around the world. Which Taxco silver artists you should be following today. About Penny Morrill: Dr. Penny Morrill has developed a history of modern Mexican silver, using primary sources. She participated in establishing the Sutherland Taxco Collection at Tulane University’s Latin American Library and has assisted in the development of modern Mexican silver collections at the Los Angeles County of Museum of Art and at the Museum of Fine Arts Boston. Morrill’s books include Mexican Silver, Silver Masters of Mexico, the exhibit catalog Mastros de Plata, and Margot Van Voorhies. She remains committed to supporting contemporary Mexican silver designs. Morrill’s other passion, colonial Mesoamerican art, is revealed in her monograph on a sixteenth century urban palace in Puebla, Mexico, The Casa Del Deán. Additional Resources: Margot Van Voorhies: The Art of Mexican Enamelwork Dreaming in Silver Transcript Check out the book here! William Spratling. Carved green stone shell necklace, cuff bracelet, earrings, and ring. c. 1940-44. earl Zubkoff, photographer William Spratling.Stela 1 cuff bracelet. c. 1940. John McCloskey, photographer. Photographer: John McCloskey. (second view) Margot de Taxco. Encircled Lines. Necklace and bracelet #5652. Enamel on silver. c. 1955. Luisa DiPietro, photographer Los Castillo (Margot Van Voorhies). Surrealist Fish. c. 1940-44. Luisa DiPietro, photographer
24 minutes | 2 months ago
Episode 87: Educating People About Jewelry, One Throw Pillow at a Time with Julie Bishop, Founder of Juler’s Row and Amy Wilson, Interior Designer
What you’ll learn in this episode: How jewelry and fashion trends influence other areas of design. The importance of educating customers on jewelry. Why social media marketing has been important for the business, and what strategies they use on Instagram. How Juler’s Row products draw on jewelry designs from throughout history. Why many people don’t realize contemporary jewelry is often influenced by the past. About Julie Bishop and Amy Wilson: Juler's Row began in 2011 as a jewelry blog by founder, Julie Bishop. New to the industry, Julie used the blog as a way to immerse herself in the world of jewelry and learn as much as possible about all aspects of the business. After many years and many blog posts, Julie decided to take Juler's Row in a new direction. Shortly thereafter, a collaboration ensued between Julie and her mom, Amy Wilson, to create "jewelry art". Amy, an interior designer and artist, took Julie's ideas and brought them to life in the form of watercolor. The "jewelry art" is available as paper prints, canvas prints, wallpaper and many other mediums. Over the years the collection has grown to include jewelry as well as clothing. Additional resources: Website Facebook Instagram Pinterest Transcript
21 minutes | 2 months ago
Episode 86: From the Wrist to the Gallery Wall: Getting People to See Jewelry as Art with Andrea Gutierrez, Jewelry Artist and Owner of Andrea Gutierrez Jewelry
What you’ll learn in this episode: The inspiration and process behind Andrea’s beaded and embroidered cuffs. How to source and re-purpose vintage beads. Why the symbiosis between jewelry artist and technical jeweler is important for the success of a piece. Global trends in jewelry, and why some locations prefer “bling” rather than art jewelry. Why the art world is hesitant to accept jewelry. About Andrea Gutierrez: Andrea Gutierrez is the owner and designer of Andrea Gutierrez Jewelry. Age-old artisanal techniques have always given Andrea Gutierrez Jewelry its muscular, roughed-up glamour. The refined yet imperfectly shaped spheres, dagger-like spikes and scarred surfaces offset with precious gemstones and marble-size pearls are an edgy presence in the world of fine jewelry. Inspired by art and architecture, engaging both the Brutalist and the Baroque, Andrea prodigiously produces unique modern designs with heirloom potential. As fearless and committed as any sculptor, Andrea hand-carves and casts her pieces in solid gold and solid sterling silver, often accented with a spray of precious or semi-precious stones and maybe a Tahitian or South Sea pearl as big as a gumball. Bold but never vulgar, brilliant but not glitzy…more Met Museum than Mar-a-Lago, these pieces project their polyglot appeal with exquisitely layered and imaginatively applied materials referencing both ancient and modern culture. Additional resources: Website Twitter Facebook Instagram Transcript All Photography by: Elio Tolot: www.eliotolot.com Ruffle band in 18k yellow gold, uneven band in sterling silver and uneven band in black rhodium Two uneven bands in 18k yellow gold, 1 ruffle band in 18k yellow gold set with green tourmalines Wide and narrow collar rings in 18k yellow gold set with rubies, white diamonds Couture Cuff – Circles Hand embroidered vintage and antique round and cut glass and metal seed beads on silk Couture Cuff - Circles - Sterling silver clasp Couture cuff - Circles – detail Couture Cuff - Sunday Afternoon - seed pearls, rutilated quartz, vintage round and faceted seed beads, Thai silver, sterling silver Couture Cuff - Sunday Afternoon - Sterling silver clasp Couture Cuff - Sunday Afternoon - Detail - Thai silver, vintage beads, rutilated quartz Couture Cuff - Sunday Afternoon - another view
18 minutes | 2 months ago
Episode 85: Get to Know Russian Jewelry Beyond Fabergé with Marie Betteley, Jewelry Dealer & Gemologist
What you’ll learn in this episode: Why Fabergé isn’t the only Russian treasure that jewelry collectors and enthusiasts should care about. How Russia’s 18th Century empresses shaped jewelry trends of the time. Why Jérémie Pauzié is the best jeweler you’ve probably never heard of. How Marie leads tours to jewelry capitals in Russia and Europe. What is included in Marie’s new book, “Beyond Fabergé: Imperial Russian Jewelry.” About Marie Betteley: Marie Betteley is a leading authority on Russian jewels and Imperial Russian decorative arts, and the President of Marie E. Betteley, Inc., an online shop where customers find exquisitely crafted jewels and treasures from the most fascinating places in the world. Beginning her career at the New York branch of Christie’s auction house, Marie quickly moved up in the company working in the Russian department. After 10 years, Marie opened her own gallery in New York and started trading in Fabergé and jewels. She regularly consults for auction houses, museums and private collectors globally, and is a respected private dealer, professional speaker, tour guide and author of Beyond Fabergé, Russian Imperial Jewelers. Additional resources: Website LinkedIn Instagram Facebook Pre-order now: Beyond Fabergé: Imperial Russian Jewelry Transcript Photo Descriptions Russian grand collar of the Imperial Order of St. Andrew set with diamonds, ca. 1795. Diamond Fund of the Moscow Kremlin. Photo by Nikolai Rakhmanov Diamond and Gold Crown Pin, 19th century. A royal crown of stylized design, bezel set with a cushion-cut diamond below a rose diamond Maltese cross, the borders and bands set with rose diamonds that graduate in size, many within diamond-shaped bezels. Mounted in 18k gold. Cover of Marie’s upcoming book: “Beyond Fabergé: Imperial Russian Jewelry,” October 28th release. Now available by preorder on Amazon. With Beyond Fabergé you’ll discover there is so much more to Russian jewelry than Fabergé.
32 minutes | 2 months ago
Episode 83: Capturing the Universe with Metal and Gemstones with Valerie Jo Coulson, Multi-Award-Winning Fine Jewelry Artist
What you’ll learn in this episode: What resources Valerie used to teach herself jewelry making. What sacred geometry is, and how it influences Valerie’s work. The process behind creating “The Gauntlet,” a bracelet featuring stunning Queensland black boulder opals. How jewelry is similar to architecture. About Valerie Jo Coulson Valerie Jo Coulson is an American designer whose brand is strongly defined by her personality and philosophy. She has worked as a studio jewelry designer, metalsmith and lapidary for more than 35 years. Her background is in Fine and Decorative Arts with particular interests in art history, architecture and design. All of her pieces, unique as they are, have strong emotional and literary connections and are created first and foremost for herself, but “within the context of communicating a collective consciousness.” Valerie‘s traditional fabrication methods and the prolific and intricate use of stone inlay, as well as her choice of materials make a strong visual impact. Hey Additional resources: Website Twitter Facebook Instagram Transcript ‘Heaven and Earth’ bracelet fabricated in 18k Gold inlaid with Australian Opal, Sugilite, Turquoise, Tiger Iron, Black Jade and Jasper. The 'Firenze' Bracelet, Sterling Silver, inlaid with Tiger Iron, Purple Agate and Cady Mountain Agate. 'Best of Show' 2017, Saul Bell Design Awards. In reverence to a nearly lifelong enchantment with the artists and architects of Florence Italy, cradle to the Renaissance. 'The Echinacea' Teapot and Trivit, Sterling Silver with oxidation, inlaid with Pink Rhodonite and Chrysoprase. 'Second Place' Holloware/Art Objects, 2019 Saul Bell Design Awards. The seen and unseen order of nature and the cosmos; interrelation and interdependence. 'The Gauntlet' Cuff, 22k Gold, 14k Gold (inner band fabrication), Queensland Black Boulder Opals, Ruby, inlaid with Black Jade, Chrysoprase, Coober Pedy Opal and Almandite Garnet.
30 minutes | 2 months ago
Episode 82: Jewelry That Makes You Think with Susan Cummins, Founder of Art Jewelry Forum
What you’ll learn in this episode: What art jewelry is and how it differs from artist’s jewelry. Why the boundaries between jewelry and other art and design disciplines are breaking down. How the breaking down of boundaries is changing how jewelry is purchased, collected and exhibited. How Art Jewelry Forum got started and what its plans are for the future. About Susan Cummins: Susan Cummins has been involved in numerous ways in the visual arts world over the last 35 years, from working in a pottery studio, doing street fairs, running a retail shop called the Firework in Mill Valley and developing the Susan Cummins Gallery into a nationally recognized venue for regional art and contemporary art jewelry. Now she spends most of her time working with a private family foundation called Rotasa and as a board member of both Art Jewelry Forum and California College of the Arts. Additional resources: Art Jewelry Forum website Facebook Instagram Twitter Transcript "Gold Makes you Blind" by Otto Künzli. Synthetic rubber and 18K gold. This bracelet looks like a black, rubber bracelet, but it has a little, round bump partway along the tube, and in that little bump is a piece of gold. Kadri Mälk, Angel Desperado, 2002, ebony, silver, purple rhodolite, blue raw spinel, 65 x 45 mm, 86 x 51 x 1 mm, photo courtesy of Rotasa Foundation. Blitzableiterkette by Bernhard Schobinger Susan Cummins wearing Dorothea Pruhl. Art Jewelry Forum logo.
27 minutes | 3 months ago
Episode 81: The Jewelry Library is Creating Spaces for Connecting Jewelry Lovers with Karen Davidov, Founder of The Jewelry Library
What you’ll learn in this episode: What jewelry literacy is, and why it is important. How Karen curated her collection of vintage jewelry and jewelry books. How stylists and costume designers work with jewelry archivists. How The Jewelry Library is continuing its programming online. What to expect from The Jewelry Library in the future. About Karen Davidov: Karen Davidov is an independent art and design producer with experience working in libraries as a researcher, on libraries as a designer and with libraries as a public art consultant. Karen pursued her passion for jewelry and jewelry research as a dealer of 20th Century Decorative Arts for many years. The Jewelry Library is an extension of her work with librarians and curators creating spaces and programs that invite and engage community. Additional resources: Website Facebook Instagram Transcript Inside The Jewelry Library
41 minutes | 3 months ago
Episode 80: Old Jewelry, New Methods: How Kentshire Galleries Has Modernized It’s Vintage Jewelry Business with Matthew Imberman, Co-President of Kentshire Galleries
What you’ll learn in this episode: How Kentshire Galleries has adapted over the years and continues to modernize its brand. Why digital marketing is the key to preserving interest in vintage jewelry. How to get young people to connect with antique jewelry, even if they can’t afford it (yet). Why retail shopping will never go back to the way it was pre-pandemic. Why style, rather than stone quality or appreciation in value, is the quality to look for when shopping for period jewelry. About Matthew Imberman: Matthew Imberman, along with his sister Carrie, are the co-presidents of Kentshire Galleries. Established in 1940 and spanning three generations of family ownership, Kentshire Galleries is one of the foremost dealers of fine period and estate jewelry. In 1988, Kentshire established a free-standing boutique in New York’s premier luxury store, Bergdorf Goodman. Their antique and estate jewelry department continues to occupy a select location on the store’s seventh floor. As the third generation of the family to lead Kentshire, Matthew and Carrie continue to refine the gallery’s founding vision: buying and selling outstanding jewelry and objects of enduring design and elegance. Additional resources: Website Facebook Twitter Instagram Pinterest Transcript A rare Iron Age style antique gold torque of engraved design with reeded terminals, in 14k. Michelsen of Copenhagen. See Charlotte Gere and Judy Rudoe's Jewellery in the Age of Queen Victoria, The British Museum Press, 2010, pg. 438 (plate 432) for an image of a nearly identical necklace as presented by Denmark to Princess Alexandra on the occasion of her marriage to Prince Albert of Wales. A Retro gold bracelet of ribbon loop design with alternating smooth and fluted links, in 18k. Signed Cartier-Paris. An Art Moderne clip brooch in the industrial style set with a cushion-cut aquamarine, in platinum and 18k white gold. France. A gold, onyx, and chrysoprase ring comprised of curved, graduated onyx plaques separated by a chrysoprase plaque, centered by a domed gold fastener with gold eyelets, in 18k. Aldo Cipullo for Cartier. A pair of antique rose-cut diamond earrings of foliate design terminating in drop diamond pendants in diamond surrounds, in sterling silver and 18k gold. France
42 minutes | 3 months ago
Episode 79: Robert Lee Morris, Renowned Fashion Jewelry Designer with an Introduction by Lisa M. Berman, Owner of Sculpture to Wear
What you’ll learn in this episode: How Robert Lee Morris started as a self-taught jewelry designer and forged a path to the pinnacle of the fashion jewelry world. How galleries like Sculpture to Wear and Artwear helped promote studio jewelry. What it was like to be part of the 70s and 80s fashion scene. How Robert Lee Morris became a household name. Why the excess of the 80s led to the minimalism of the 90s. How taste in jewelry has changed over the years. About Robert Lee Morris: Robert Lee Morris is a fashion jewelry designer and sculptor, who attributes much of his inspiration to organic forms he admires in nature and to designing for an imaginary futuristic society. His designs have been made in gold, silver and bronze. He is known for his 24 carat matte gold plating and rich deep red copper and green patina. Robert has collaborated with many leading fashion designers, including Geoffrey Beene, Karl Lagerfeld, Kansai Yamamoto, Calvin Klein, Anne Klein, and Donna Karan. He was awarded the Coty Award in 1981 and the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award by the CFDA Awards in 2007. Robert was first discovered in 1971 by New York gallery owner Joan Sonnabend and first exhibited his work at her art jewelry outpost in the Plaza Hotel called Sculpture to Wear. Shortly after the closing of Sculpture to Wear in 1977, he opened the first iteration of Artwear Gallery. After relocating to SoHo in 1978, he gained new celebrity clientele, including Issey Miyake, Madonna, Cher, Bianca Jagger, Janet Jackson, Oprah Winfrey, among others. About Lisa M. Berman*: Lisa M. Berman, is known as the Visionary Proprietor of the iconic gallery Sculpture to Wear, which was instrumental in launching the studio jewelry movement in the United States. Berman curates exhibitions and places collections into museums, as well as offering an eclectic array of art, jewelry and unique objects via her gallery to discerning collectors, media and art institutions, which have been featured in multiple films, television and publications. She is also the founder of Berman Arts Agency, Director of the Oropeza Sculpture Garden, the Official West Coast Representative of Robert Lee Morris’s Archives and the first Ambassador for ARTISTAR Jewels in the United States *No relation to host Sharon Berman Additional Resources: Facebook Instagram Robert Lee Morris: NYC Jewelry Week at Pratt institute Watch a video of Lisa M. Berman showcase her work with Robert Lee a Morris as she reviews some of his unforgettable pieces. Watch a video of this podcast on youtube Transcript COLLAR 1980, brass with verdigris patina. Sample for a KANSAI YAMAMOTO EVENT, one-of-a-kind. ROLLING MACHINE Collar, Sterling silver & brass,1974. One-of-a-kind. From RLM: “Yes! This is my favorite! Has incredible Providence...was one of my two signature pieces in the “SCULPTURES AS JEWELRY AS SCULPTURE” exhibition at the Boston ICA in 1974. LONG CUFF #6 1989, Cutout photo etched sheet metal created for DONNA KARAN. Resort collection,18k gold plate. One-of-a-kind. Lisa M. Berman, owner of Sculpture to Wear Gallery and West Coast dealer for the Robert Lee Morris archives.
18 minutes | 3 months ago
Episode 78: Turning Basic Materials into One-of-a-Kind Jewelry with Adi Raffled Podhozer, Owner of ADI RAFFELD PODHORZER
What you’ll learn in this episode: Why Adi uses unusual materials and printing processes in her work. How jewelry, fashion and art intersect and inspire one another. How Adi scored a partnership with El Al Airlines and what techniques she uses to promote her work. About Adi Raffeld Podhorzer: Adi is an Israeli fashion designer and owner of the boutique brand ADI RAFFELD PODHORZER, which operates in the Israeli and international designing field. The unique designs of ADI RAFFELD PODHORZER include fashion, jewelry and a large variety of spectacular ornaments. Adi creates one-of-a-kind clothing items and jewelry. She uses unconventional materials such as Perspex, leather, aluminum, plastic and various materials. All items are hand crafted by Adi, from the designing stage to the final production. Additional Resources: Website Facebook Instagram Transcript
18 minutes | 4 months ago
Episode 77: Seeking Affordable Quality Jewelry? Look for Vermeil, According to Designer Lausanne Miller
What you’ll learn in this episode: What “demi-fine jewelry” means. Why vermeil is the “gold” standard for plated jewelry. How Lausanne’s previous work as a fashion designer inspires her jewelry line. How Shop Lausanne has remained flexible during the coronavirus pandemic. About Lausanne Miller: After spending 13 years as a fashion designer and director for large brands in Los Angeles, Lausanne Miller took a leap and made the shift to her forever love, jewelry. With the goal of offering thoughtfully designed, modern, and enduring styles. Coupled with her small town midwestern roots, Lausanne draws upon her love of travel and art as a constant source of inspiration. Additional Resources: Website Facebook Instagram Transcript
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