Sushi is often a high culinary art form and its popularity continues to grow. Since the countries first sushi roll was served in Little Tokyo Los Angeles in the 1960s, is has grown into a multi-billion dollar a year industry. Interest in the cuisine is fueled by creative chefs, who push boundaries and take painstaking steps to ensure the best customer experience. One example is Billy Ngo, founder, chef and partner of Kru Restaurant in Sacramento, whose innovation and emphasis on quality has garnered loyal customers and rave reviews. As Leilani Marie Labong from SacTown Magazine put it, Billy “has fine-tuned an unofficial M.O. to bring as-yet-uncharted experiences to his hometown.” Billy’s ascendance as one of the region’s top chefs is remarkable, considering his journey. “We were very lucky to have the life that I had and the opportunities I had growing up here with my parents coming over here,” he remarked. “My parents are Chinese, but they're from Vietnam. Born in Vietnam. They had to flee because of the Vietnam War. And my mom was pregnant with me when they got on the boat, escaped, landed in a refugee camp in Hong Kong, and that's where I was born.” Billy arrived in Sacramento as a baby, and he admits his early work career was more focused on earning money for stereo equipment than being a top chef. As a teen, he spent many laborious weekends preparing shrimp for later use. Other jobs included busing tables and washing dishes. However, over time, Billy’s interest in sushi grew. This spark was fueled by his work with high achieving chefs, including Taka Watanabe, Taro Arai and Randall Selland. Through this experience, he saw changes in how sushi was being presented. From a rigid, predictable menu came food with a flair, and a chance for every chef to roll something amazing and unique. He founded Kru Restaurant in 2005, putting optimism over a firm foundation of success. As he put it, “it was all done with band-aids and pennies.” Fortunately, Kru has grown, as more people became enchanted with Billy’s groundbreaking cuisine. Billy cited using great ingredients as a key, and that includes the foundation of sushi – rice. In fact, California rice is used in virtually every roll of sushi made in America. Billy gets his rice from grower Michael Bosworth in Yuba County, and said he’s impressed with the sophistication of farming; the scale and hi-tech nature that one must see to fully appreciate. He has carried forth this approach of sourcing local ingredients, and forging relationships with the farmers and ranchers that grew them. “We're so lucky to be in this region in Sacramento with so many things being grown here locally,” he said. “Knowing where it's coming from and having the relationship with the grower or the rancher or the farmer. Any questions you have, it's easy.” Billy said his current priorities are to keep Kru and his other businesses, including the employees, going as reasonably as possible during the COVID-19 restrictions, although he can’t wait for a better day. “This is so different,” he commented. “I’m very thankful that we're still able to offer food to-go. But part of the magic and why I fell in love with this industry, is seeing the faces, hearing the sound, hearing the laughs of the dining room and the clang of pans in the kitchen, you miss all that. And I can't wait for that and I think hopefully soon we'll have that energy again, inside the building.” Episode Transcript Jim Morris: The first sushi served in America was in the 1960s in little Tokyo, Los Angeles. From its humble beginnings here, it is now a powerhouse generating billions of dollars a year. The Sacramento Valley provides virtually all of America's sushi rice, and this region has some outstanding sushi. Ian Scharg and his family are regular customers at Kru Restaurant. Ian Scharg: We like the freshness and quality of their food. Everything is very interesting that they make. Sushi is, to us, a form of artwork, fresh fish, and we feel like it's a healthy choice for lunch or dinner that we like to enjoy as a family. Jim Morris: Time to take a closer look at sushi and a fascinating chef, Billy Ngo. Welcome to Ingrained, The California Rice Podcast. I'm your host, Jim Morris. Proud to have worked with California farmers and ranchers for more than 30 years to help tell their stories. And along the way, I've had the good fortune to visit with culinary icons like Julia Child and Thomas Keller. Jim Morris: I first met Billy Ngo 14 years ago, and continue to be amazed at his work ethic and pushing culinary boundaries. Billy, do you ever get a chance to sleep? Billy Ngo: I try to as much as I can. I mean, definitely not 24 anymore when I first opened the restaurant. Jim Morris: Yeah. You have come a long way since then. So, I want to ask you about the very beginning. And I know you've immigrated to America at a very young age. You were from China, then in a Hong Kong refugee camp, and then you came over now to be a star of Japanese cuisine in Northern California. So, from what you've heard from your family, can you tell me a little bit about their existence prior to getting to America? Billy Ngo: Yes. Absolutely. I don't remember much because when I came over I was a baby, so I don't remember much. But the stories I hear from my sisters and my parents was, it was a struggle. We were very lucky to have the life that I had and the opportunities I had growing up here with my parents coming over here. So, my parents are Chinese, but they're from Vietnam. Born in Vietnam. They had to flee because of the Vietnam War. And my mom was pregnant with me when they got on the boat, escaped, landed in a refugee camp in Hong Kong, and that's where I was born. Billy Ngo: And then from there, we were able to come to the United States, to America. And just hearing their stories though, just really, really, really grateful and thankful to be here and to be able to have the opportunity to do what I wanted to do. I know it was funny, going along with that whole thing, with the story, you're like, "Oh, you're Chinese-Vietnamese doing Japanese food." But I mean, I joke around with this all the time. Well, the first job I ever had was at a pasta shop, Kru might be a pasta shop. Billy Ngo: But actually, first job I had was at Fuji's as a bus boy, and then dishwasher, and then sushi prep. And actually it was just a job at first, but then I actually fell in love with the cuisine. Jim Morris: So, we're both from South Sacramento area. I went to Kennedy High School, but I graduated in 1981, when I think you were actually born in 1981. So, tell me about this area. I have a lot of memories about South Sacramento. It's kind of a gritty, hardworking area. And did that shape you in any way, the fact that where you lived? Billy Ngo: Oh, definitely. I grew up in South Sac. It wasn't easy, but a lot of experience growing up in that kind of neighborhood just makes... I don't know. It makes you a little tougher, a little stronger. It kind of made who I am, I feel like. Jim Morris: Some of those early jobs, you've mentioned some of them, but Fuji, which was a great restaurant, and then Taka's and Mikuni. Tell me some of those early jobs you had and some of the different things you did in the restaurants. Billy Ngo: First off, at Fuji's was actually just being a bus boy. Got a job there as a bus boy/dishwasher. Fuji's amazing. Wish they were still open. The food was so good there. Jim Morris: It was awesome. Billy Ngo: So good. They were around for a long, long time. But just, you get to see how the food scene changed in Sacramento over the last 20 years. Fuji's was huge. They had a elevator, full bar, they had downstairs, they had upstairs that fit giant parties. But they had this tiny sushi bar that sat seven seats, sushi bar. And it just shows even though Japanese cuisine was really, really popular, sushi wasn't really popular back then. I think this idea of eating raw fish or whatever it is. And then to see it expand, explode the way it is now, it's everywhere. Billy Ngo: And then I think a big part of that was with Taro at Mikuni's helping blow it up and then making it fun and exciting. And it was really, really cool to have a opportunity to work with Taro's at Mikuni's to see what they were doing there. It was very, very outside the box at the time, what they're doing. And that's what's good about the whole culinary scene. Things change, evolve, and then it's not competition. There's never bad competition, it's good competition because it pushes everything, everyone to be better. Jim Morris: Can you remember the first fish you ever cut, and some of the things you learned from that? Billy Ngo: First fish would have to be... I would say salmon. That's the easiest fish, salmon. And then shrimp. People see all the other sushi Ebi. You see at sushi restaurants, the boiled shrimp, it looks so simple, but it's so much work. At Fuji's, the first position I got in the sushi bar was just sushi prep. And I remember I had to go in there at 8:00 AM every Saturday, Sunday to prep all the shrimp for the week for the two sushi chefs that was working there. Billy Ngo: And the shrimp doesn't come straight like that. They come with their shell on, head, everything you have to... And this was cases of it. You have to sit there and skewer each shrimp so when you boil it, they stay straight. Because otherwise when you cook shrimp, it the curls up, right? So you sit there, you have to skewer hundreds of shrimp, and then you have to boil them, then you have shock it in ice water. Then once it's cool, then you got to peel it, then devein it, then you got to split them open. And then you have to cure it and then you have to package it, wrap it up. And then, at the time, freeze it and then the sous chefs will pull it out as they need it. And that was done every week. Billy Ngo: But it was something so simple that... That's what makes sushi so cool, or hard too, that a lot of people don't understand. Sometimes like, "Oh, sushi chef. You don't even cook anything. What do you do?" But a lot of it is what you see being done at the sushi bars, is all the prep's done. But 95% of the work is done before all that. Jim Morris: Man, I