Created with Sketch.
Conscious Chatter with Kestrel Jenkins
62 minutes | Sep 14, 2021
S05 Episode 249 | Isiah Magsino on fashion's current obsession with *genderless* and paying respect to queer & trans communities who have been stepping out of the binary forever
In episode 249, Kestrel welcomes Isiah Magsino, a writer based in New York City, to the show. With bylines in Vogue, GQ, W, Nylon, Architectural Digest, and more, Isiah is focused on writing about the beautiful things in life. “While it’s mainstream now, it’s important to recognize where it comes from, and the adversity that was faced from doing so back in the day. You know, we’re at a point where it’s a little more accepted, which is amazing, but before we go into marketing everything as genderless, I think it’s important to know the struggle that came from crossdressing or drag or even participating in genderless fashion to begin with.” -Isiah One of fashion’s newest words to embrace - when it comes to marketing jargon - is GENDERLESS. As this week’s guest points out, the term genderless is currently en vogue - and it’s starting to sound like sustainability did a few months ago. Press releases that were framed around “sustainability this or sustainability that” are now shifting to language centered around genderless or gender fluid styles. At first glance, fashion’s embrace of genderless clothing seems fantastic (as well as being something that should have happened ages and ages ago). But approaching genderless as a trend, not acknowledging the history of gender noncomforming dress and especially, not giving credit where credit is due — to queer and trans people who have been stepping out of the binary for hundreds of year, is where it gets super problematic. This week’s guest recently wrote a piece for W Magazine that explores all of the above, through interviews with mostly trans women, in an effort to share more on the nuanced importance of truly dressing however the hell you want. We explore more on why we (and the industry) must pay their respects to the LGBTQ+ community, and some of the nuance connected to fashion’s most recent obsession with *genderless*. Quotes & links from the conversation: “For the LGBTQ+ Community, Fashion Has Always Been ‘Genderless’”, Isiah’s article for W Magazine that is explored in depth throughout the conversation Beyond The Binary by Alok Vaid-Menon, book & educator Kestrel mentions The Art Of Drag by Jake Hall, book Isiah recommends Isiah’s website > Follow Isiah on Instagram > This week's episode is sponsored by Ana Luisa, the first direct-to-consumer jewelry brand to become carbon-neutral. If you’re interested in checking out Ana Luisa, you can use code CHATTER to get 10% off.
52 minutes | Sep 8, 2021
S05 Episode 248 | Ocean Rose on botanical dyeing, sustainability as a collection of idiosyncrasies & the art of slowing down
In episode 248, Kestrel welcomes Ocean Rose, a Yoruba artist, to the show. Focused on botanical dye, community, photography, & poetry, Ocean weaves beauty, thoughtfulness and the art of slowing down into their work. “Sustainability’s more of a story of how — it’s probably the history of people and the things that we acquire over time. It’s all part of passing them on: cultural, familial, and ancestral idiosyncrasies. So yes and no — sustainability, it does have a meaning, but I think when we start to break down what it actually means, we can notice that it’s woven into more of our lives than we might realize.” -Ocean *Beauty* ends up being a recurring theme woven throughout this conversation with Ocean — and through this conversation, she reminds us of something very important. We live and interact within a capitalistic society, and the world tells us that we should monetize all of the things that we love. Which, case in point — this podcast is 100% a reflection of that. It is a project that over time, I have worked mindfully to develop into a business, in order to help fund this work that I love so deeply. In her whimsical, ethereal prose, Ocean notes that we should keep some things for ourselves — especially at certain moments throughout our lives, because creative avenues can help ground us, connect us to the land, to our inner child, and to ourselves. Botanical dyeing started as that *thing* for Ocean, and it has evolved gradually and intentionally into something that now also provides monetary value. We explore the deep meaning behind botanical dyeing, the need to reframe our respect for resources by seeing the beauty in what is often considered “waste”, and questions around scalability - something that always bubbles to the top in the sustainability and fashion space. Quotes & links from the conversation: Ocean’s website > Ocean’s Ko-fi > Follow Ocean on Instagram > Follow Ocean on TikTok > This week's episode is sponsored by Ana Luisa, the first direct-to-consumer jewelry brand to become carbon-neutral. If you’re interested in checking out Ana Luisa, you can use code CHATTER to get 10% off.
43 minutes | Aug 24, 2021
S05 Episode 247 | Christian Allaire of Vogue on the deep meaning behind Indigenous ribbon work & fashion as a means to reclaim culture
In episode 247, Kestrel welcomes Christian Allaire, the Fashion and Style Writer at Vogue, to the show. Christian recently released his first book, titled The Power Of Style: How Fashion and Beauty Are Being Used To Reclaim Cultures. “I think of something like ribbon work in my culture — like every color of the ribbon means something, or maybe it represents someone in your life or like you said, intention is first and foremost. How it looks is important, but why it’s there is even more important. And so, I’m drawn to anyone who also approaches design that way.” -Christian As a fashion-obsessed teen, Christian grew up on the Nipissing First Nation reserve in Ontario, Canada, scouring magazines or movies for style inspiration. Years later, he realized that so much of his personal aesthetic and attraction to fashion and dressing was influenced by his own community - being Indigenous Ojibwe. From the colors to the garment making process to the deep meaning that can be embedded in clothing, his love of fashion was largely shaped in his early years, and continues to inform his writing today. One of the chapters of Christian’s new book — The Power Of Style: How Fashion and Beauty Are Being Used To Reclaim Cultures — is focused on “Sewing Tradition”, and he explores some of the history and meaning behind ribbon work, a tradition connected to his own family’s roots. Throughout the conversation, we touch a great deal on his experience having his own ribbon shirt made as an adult, and the layers of meaning literally built into that design. But in Christian’s new book, he also explores beyond his own heritage, highlighting and connecting with an array of communities who are all using fashion and beauty to reclaim their culture. Quotes & links from the conversation: “I really just kind of understood more so why cultural clothing or Indigenous design is so important to keep up — it's up to us to continue these traditions, because no one else will. And so, yes I got a beautiful shirt out of it, but I think it was about way more than that for me.” -Christian Jamie Okuma, Indigenous designer Christian mentions Mobilize, Indigenous designer Christian mentions Tania Larsson, Indigenous designer Christian mentions Warren Steven Scott, Indigenous designer Christian mentions Keri Ataumbi, Indigenous designer Christian mentions Korina Emmerich, Indigenous designer Christian mentions “5 Shoe Lovers on Where They Shop for Heels, and Why Wearing Them Is Empowering”, article by Christian for Vogue that is mentioned Christian’s book Power Of Style How Fashion and Beauty Are Being Used To Reclaim Cultures > Follow Christian on Instagram > This week's episode is brought to you by For Days — they call themselves the “first closed loop clothing brand” and are dedicated to building a better, waste-free future. If you’re interested in checking out For Days, you can use code CHATTER15 to get 15% off. Learn more and shop at For Days.com
51 minutes | Aug 17, 2021
S05 Episode 246 | Nia Thomas on building an autobiographical brand & breaking up with plug and play approaches to doing fashion
In episode 246, Kestrel welcomes Nia Thomas, the founder and designer of her eponymous label, to the show. An ethically made, independent autobiographical fashion brand, Nia Thomas was created for all beings who respect Mother Earth and all of her inhabitants. “Fashion was never just about the garment or the clothes — I felt like it really is an ethos. Like fashion is about the restaurants you like to eat, the movies you like to watch, the museums you go to with your friends on the weekend, where you like to travel to on holiday. And creating this world of evolution, because as we get older, we change; we’re evolutional beings, and how our wardrobe is affected by that.” -Nia If you’ve taken any fashion businesses courses, or if you’re tapped into the marketing space, I would imagine that you’ve heard the idea that we need to focus on one thing and do it well. Or maybe you’ve heard about the importance of honing in on a hyper specific quote unquote demographic, to ensure you’re actually entering the market in the *right* way? This week’s guest is totally resisting all of the above business ideals in the most beautiful way. From her eclectic and you could say unexpected product offering, to making styles for many bodies, Nia Thomas describes her label as an “autobiographical brand”. On the show, she shares more on how she allows her own evolution to consistently influence her brand — giving space for Nia Thomas to continue to transition into new stages, that are reflective of her own growth as a human. Quotes & links from the conversation: “I feel the word sustainability itself means everything and nothing at the same time — because it’s really hard to verify things.” -Nia Nia Thomas interview on Melanin & Sustainable Style “Am I a fashion designer or am I a multitasking problem solver because that’s the bulk of what it takes when you’re doing all the parts.” -Nia The Responsible Company by Yvon Choinard, book Kestrel mentions Nia Thomas YouTube > Follow Nia on Instagram > This week's episode is brought to you by For Days — they call themselves the “first closed loop clothing brand” and are dedicated to building a better, waste-free future. If you’re interested in checking out For Days, you can use code CHATTER15 to get 15% off. Learn more and shop at For Days.com
34 minutes | Aug 10, 2021
S05 Episode 245 | Eshita Kabra-Davies of By Rotation on fashion rental, making the sharing economy personal & challenging the pressure of *newness*
In episode 245, Kestrel welcomes Eshita Kabra-Davies, the CEO and founder of By Rotation, to the show. A UK-based social fashion rental app and platform, By Rotation is dedicated to transforming the way we consume fashion. “I think no one’s really attempted to make fashion rental about the sharing economy, to make it about women sharing with each other. It’s always been seen more as a “oh, I want to wear designer clothing” or “oh, I want to wear something new” or “oh, I have a charity gala or a ball to go to”. It’s always been for those sort of reasons — it’s never really addressed the fact that we all have enough fashion in our existing wardrobes.” -Eshita Have you heard the recent discussion about how the rental market could have a worse impact on the planet than just throwing your clothes in the trash? It’s been circulating around across the mainstream media after a new study was released in the journal - Environmental Research Letters. First of all — research within the fashion space is so important and necessary and needed. We are lacking in accumulated data as an industry, so it is always exciting to learn about new studies and the way they go about putting their findings together. At the same time, when it comes to research, there are going to be biases involved, every detail cannot be accounted for, and there will be some assumptions made. It’s complex, yet important to continue to question and explore the nuance with the arrival of new data and new framings of analytics. When it comes to reports like this, it’s very important to hear from individuals on different sides of the results and to listen to multiple perspectives. On this week’s show, we talk with Eshita — the founder and CEO of By Rotation — on how they are working to make the sharing economy personal. For By Rotation, fashion rental is not another sales avenue to sell hundreds of dresses (to the rental company instead of the consumer) — it’s instead an opportunity to allow us to use / rent what we already have in our own closets. Quotes & links from the conversation: “People are feeling pressure to always update their look, you know, always have something new happening in their lives — whether it’s going to the newest restaurant or wearing the latest handbag or whatever — there’s this pressure to always show new things. And I thought it would be so interesting if we could create a sharing economy around fashion, because fashion, turns out, is one of the most polluting industries in the world. It overtakes maritime and aviation industries combined — which is shocking because you would think that traveling and taking airplanes is the biggest contributor, but actually, it’s what we wear every day.” -Eshita “Innovative recycling or extended use? Comparing the global warming potential of different ownership and end-of-life scenarios for textiles” -study by Environmental Research Letters Follow Eshita on Instagram > Follow By Rotation on Instagram > This week's episode is brought to you by For Days — they call themselves the “first closed loop clothing brand” and are dedicated to building a better, waste-free future. If you’re interested in checking out For Days, you can use code CHATTER15 to get 15% off. Learn more and shop at For Days.com
56 minutes | Aug 3, 2021
S05 Episode 244 | Alyssa Beltempo on creativity over consumption & shifting the narrative away from placing *all* responsibility on the consumer
In episode 244, Kestrel welcomes Alyssa Beltempo, a Canadian slow fashion expert and stylist, to the show. Through her YouTube channel with over 144K subscribers to her Instagram and website, Alyssa is dedicated to reminding us that there is a power in advocating for creativity over consumption. "I wanted to fill the gap of showing that you can consume less and it can actually be fun and it doesn’t have to be a sacrifice — which, like society has made it out that way — like we have to be in this constant search of more, when in fact, the opposite can actually be a very fruitful and rewarding endeavor." -Alyssa The idea for this conversation was actually sparked when Alyssa reached out to Kestrel, after listening to episode 241 with Akilah Stewart of FATRA. In that chat, there was a lot of discussion about creativity, and Alyssa said she loved how Akilah highlighted that everyone can be creative, and that resonated a lot with her own approach to styling. So, thanks to Akilah for inspiring the seeds for this episode! We explore more on the power that creativity holds, when we are thinking about how to get beyond the rhetoric of consuming less, shopping your own closet when you can, how the narrative is finally shifting away from putting *all* of the responsibility on the shopper to address fashion’s messes, and more. Quotes & links from the conversation: “Using less and being creative with what you have — this is not a new concept. Maybe I’m presenting it in a different way, but being more sustainable in your mindset is rooted in the way of life for poor and marginalized communities. My immigrant grandparents were reusing and being creative because that was what was available to them.” -Alyssa “It’s almost like we need to be a bit more materialistic in a sense — like we need to love what we have — when you love what you have, you tend to want less.” -Alyssa Episode 240 with Maxine Bédat Episode 47 with Timo Rissanen Power Of My People, brand that makes linen shirt Alyssa mentions Live virtual “Shop Your Closet” event Subscribe to Alyssa’s YouTube Channel > Follow Alyssa on Instagram > This week's episode is brought to you by For Days — they call themselves the “first closed loop clothing brand” and are dedicated to building a better, waste-free future. If you’re interested in checking out For Days, you can use code CHATTER15 to get 15% off. Learn more and shop at For Days.com
43 minutes | Jul 27, 2021
S05 Episode 243 | Julia Perez of Jae and Leona on separating self care from capitalism, launching a skincare line during the pandemic & advocating for skincare as liberation
In episode 243, Kestrel welcomes Julia Perez, the creator of Jae and Leona, to the show. Through her company — Jae and Leona — Julia offers small batch, plant + botanical skin care products, as well as in-person facial treatments. She is also an intuitive esthetician, energy healer, and model. "Self care should be an everyday thing, and it almost should be an every moment thing — like every thing that you’re doing is with intention to support yourself, to preserve yourself, so that you can then continue to go on to live your life’s purpose, whatever that may be." -Julia Have you felt like you’re hearing a lot more about *self care* over the last year or so? I mean, let’s be real - the last year+ has been intense on so many levels - from COVID-19 to the resurgence of the Black Lives Matter movement after the murder of George Floyd to job insecurity to economic difficulties … it’s been a lot. And with all of that, there has been a heightened need to find ways to care for ourselves, in order to keep going. But one of the things I notice is how much the *growth* of self care has been directly aligned with capitalism - you know, it’s companies marketing products to us, as these things we have to have to take a break, or something we need to help us rest or do something for ourselves. When, there are so many ways we can slow down without buying anything new. This week’s guest reminds us that self care doesn’t mean retail therapy — and that self care can be little things that we do for ourselves on a daily basis. She shares more on her work as an intuitive esthetician, how she released her own skincare line during the pandemic, some of the ways her own heritage has been built into her products, and what skincare as liberation means to her. Quotes & links from the conversation: Julia’s favorite ingredients? “There are 2 ingredients — one is tamanu, which is a nut that comes from the South Pacific that has incredible healing properties, and the other one is tulsi which is sweet basil. But both of those ingredients actually have links in history to my own heritage — my Dad is from Guam, so from the South Pacific, a lot of Natives actually used those two ingredients or those plants to do their own healing. In my research, I wanted to create a link to my own heritage and healing and really investigate and be connected to that.” “I hope that many businesses can really step away from the scarcity model — of like ‘you need to buy this right now or it’s no longer going to be available for you’. You know, not only is that mind frame and that model toxic, but it also doesn’t support others that may not be able to make that investment at that moment, and is kind of exclusionary in a lot of senses.” -Julia Jae and Leona's Awakening Hydrosol Jae and Leona's Bare Face Cleansing Oil Follow Julia on Instagram > for all things sustainable fashion for larger bodies Follow Jae and Leona on Instagram > for all things skincare + self care
46 minutes | Jul 13, 2021
S05 Episode 242 | Questioning the meaning behind *regenerative fashion* and building new fashion systems with Christy Dawn & Oshadi Collective
In episode 242, Kestrel welcomes Nishanth Chopra, the founder of Oshadi Collective, to the show, alongside Mairin Wilson, the head of regenerative practices at Christy Dawn. A regenerative farm and textile production community based in Erode, India, Oshadi Collective has been working in partnership with Christy Dawn to develop and release farm-to-closet garments. "It's about connection, connecting to everything you do and having an alternative way of looking at things. Whether it be a relationship with another being or another person or a relationship with the plants or a relationship with any aspect — anything that you interact with in the supply chain. So, when we talk about agriculture, it’s about the soil, it’s about ecosystems, it’s about the biodiversity, it’s about the animals. You know, it’s not just about *not* adding chemicals — it's about recreating something which we have destroyed for years and years and years." -Nishanth The word regenerative has been popping up in mainstream fashion conversations more regularly over the last year or so – it’s been written about in Vogue, Marie Claire, Women’s Wear Daily, and more. But a lot of the methods and concepts used in regenerative agriculture are not new at all – they're rooted in circular practices cultivated by Indigenous people over thousands of years. And they are tied to ancient practices for the cultivation of fiber and beyond. Unfortunately, as we see over and over again, the often whitewashed sustainability movement has a reputation of taking ideas or practices from Black and Brown Indigenous communities, without giving credit or acknowledgement, and then finding new ways to repackage and commercialize them. As I observe the word regenerative begin to infiltrate the fashion space, it’s key to ask more questions about what this concept actually means to these brands, and what the behind-the-scenes in the supply chain really looks like for them. On this week’s show, we explore some of these ideas with Nishanth of Oshadi Collective and Mairin of Christy Dawn. The two have been working closely over the last two years in a distinct partnership — they have been working to build a new fashion system, one that is hyper-localized and regenerative, and that has now produced farm-to-closet garments. Quotes & links from the conversation: “It’s really amazing when you create these regenerative systems and these systems — as Nishanth said, of trust and mutually beneficial relationships — I feel like, although it is a lot of hard work and everyone’s doing their part, it feels easy because you’re doing your part but then you’re also benefiting from it.” -Mairin “With regenerative, you start to have a different outlook and you think them as you, just another version of you. You treat them how you’d treat yourself — anything you interact with like soils, insects, animals, the people you work with — it’s a respectful relationship with everything you interact with. That’s what regenerative is for me.” -Nishanth “I just really want to make sure I play my part — you know, I can’t change the world or you know, I can’t change big systems but I can play my part to create something small, and if that kind of leaves an impact, and it can be these ripples it starts. And I can take it to a certain distance — someone after me will take it to a slightly bigger distance hopefully, and it keeps going on. I won’t be able to accomplish this in one lifetime — not anyone — because it’s been happening for such a long time, but eventually the goal is completely change the system and create a system that is fair, respectful.” -Nishanth Peeling Back The Layers Of The Green Revolution, episode on Art Of Citizenry podcast that has been very helpful to Kestrel when contextualizing some of the history connected to agriculture / fashion in India Green Dreamer episode featuring Nishanth — episode 307 — that Kestrel mentions Follow Oshadi Collective on Instagram > Follow Christy Dawn on Instagram > This week's episode is brought to you by Gem - an app and web platform that brings all online vintage and secondhand clothing and accessories into one search. Learn more & download the app at Gem.app!
44 minutes | Jun 29, 2021
S05 Episode 241 | Reimagining waste as a resource, creativity's battle against commerce & the importance of welcoming financial sustainability into the larger conversation
In episode 241, Kestrel welcomes Akilah Stewart, the founder and creative director of FATRA, to the show. A creative waste management company, FATRA makes luxury bags from recycled plastics and fabric. On this week’s show, Akilah shares stories about some of the ways her grandmothers have influenced her and her work today. She also reminds us of the importance of thinking about creativity as a tool for building solutions — and not just an aesthetics-oriented idea. Kestrel and Akilah talk about the way in which we must be reimagining waste, and truly looking at it as a resource. As Akilah highlights, when so-called “waste” is generated by other animals, they are always finding creative ways to use it in different ways — it’s not something to be simply “thrown away”. Another big topic that comes up in this conversation is financial sustainability, and some of the ways that the nuances around it have been missing from the sustainability conversation. “I just want to keep it going in that manner — you know, working with immigrant women, working with women who want to develop their skill sets, working with lots of marginalized groups of people — so I think that ultimately, the growth doesn’t have to mean exploitation anywhere — it just means literally doing more good for more people.” -Akilah Episode 4 of The Root, mentioned in the conversation — Akilah was featured in part 3 of this episode “We can’t be puritans to the point where we’re not seeing action.” -Akilah “This is where I feel the creativity is lacking — because generally, when you’re making a product, your creativity is only bound and limited to what’s viable to commerce, to how you can sell that creativity, so therefore, you cannot be fully creative if it doesn’t sell, if it’s something that doesn’t make money.” -Akilah “Lived experiences should be way more valued than they have been.” -Akilah Akilah featured on EMPOWHER NY Akilah featured on Metal Magazine Akilah quoted in Architectural Digest’s Clever Akilah's Upcycling Workshop on Slow Factory Akilah’s CashApp: $FATRA Follow Fatra on Instagram > This week's episode is brought to you by OEKO-TEX® - a worldwide association of 18 independent research and test institutes that sets standards for safer textile and leather production and products. The OEKO-TEX® portfolio of independent certifications and product labels help all of us make responsible decisions to choose products that are safer, more environmentally friendly, and manufactured in a socially responsible way. Learn more about their labels at www.oeko-tex.com.
46 minutes | Jun 22, 2021
S05 Episode 240 | Maxine Bédat on why circularity won't save us, how the origin of business was not to maximize profit & what that context tells us about the current fashion system
In episode 240, Kestrel welcomes Maxine Bédat, the founder and executive director of New Standard Institute, to the show. A think-and-do-tank, New Standard Institute is dedicated to turning industries into a force for good. Maxine is also the author of Unraveled: The Life and Death Of A Garment. "The society in which we live in is very much a result of the rules of our society — in that, it is people who change the rules, who create them and can change them, I should say. And so, I think that was definitely my biggest takeaway, is like, nothing about this system that we live in right now is inevitable. You know, where women garment workers are exploited and we’re just trashing rivers and throwing up climate change-causing emissions into the air and creating this product that isn’t making us happy — that’s not an inevitability, it’s just the systems of rules that we create and have to change.” -Maxine On this week’s show, Maxine shares more on her past journey, from law to fashion, and what has culminated in the writing of her new book — Unraveled: The Life and Death Of A Garment. Maxine and Kestrel quickly discover their mutual love of “context”, which plays into the overall conversation. They explore more on the origins of business — something Maxine discusses in her new book — and how corporations were initially founded on democratic ideals with the intention of being for the peoples’ benefit, where citizens were also considered as shareholders in the model. This may be surprising, considering how businesses have now become aligned with profit, profit, and profit, at the expense of everything else. Maxine helps tie some of these layers of context into how we should be looking at the current state of the fashion industry, and how we must get beyond these buzzwords (how circularity won’t save us), to move toward doing business based on equity, that exists within planetary bounds. “We have learned that there has been an enormous investment in getting us - citizens - to see ourselves as docile buying machines, which social media has only exacerbated, rather than powerful stakeholders in our democracy.” -quote Kestrel mentions from Maxine’s book “This adoption of circularity as this kind of panacea that’s gonna get us to this magical place where we can keep growing to infinity, in a land of limited resources — it’s those frameworks that are just denying really the central problem that you just identified. And I think, to me, when I first was reading about the origins of business, which as you said — it was not to maximize profit, the whole corporate forum was created as a vehicle to pool resources for public goods like bridges and hospitals. And that’s why the government of the people would give corporate paperwork and created the legal infrastructure around it. And then, as you said, it was Milton Friedman and the conversations from the ‘50s, ‘60s and ‘70s that just took this in a completely different direction, and that’s … where we now really need to have the serious conversation. We desperately and do not have any time to waste in moving beyond these like “win, win”, “triple bottom line”, “circularity” — this fluffed … how do we actually go from a society that is based now on maximizing profits for shareholders to a society that is much more equitable and that exists within planetary bounds. And nobody within business has a good answer to that right now, but that’s where the conversation has to be.” -Maxine “I will not just be a consumer, passively consuming while things fall apart.” -quote Kestrel mentions from Maxine’s book Follow Maxine on Instagram > Follow New Standard Institute on Instagram > This week's episode is brought to you by OEKO-TEX® - a worldwide association of 18 independent research and test institutes that sets standards for safer textile and leather production and products. The OEKO-TEX® portfolio of independent certifications and product labels help all of us make responsible decisions to choose products that are safer, more environmentally friendly, and manufactured in a socially responsible way. Learn more about their labels at www.oeko-tex.com.
48 minutes | Jun 15, 2021
S05 Episode 239 | Ganni on the importance of action over labels & their 44 responsibility gameplan goals
In episode 239, Kestrel welcomes Lauren Bartley, the head of sustainability and CSR for GANNI, to the show. A Danish contemporary ready-to-wear fashion brand, Ganni is known for building a cult following in the fashion space. “Nowadays, sustainable or sustainability — it means different things to different people. To you, it might mean plastics and to me, it might mean human rights or circularity or carbon. You know — it’s so broad. I just think we need to move away from this broad brush approach to the subject and I guess, be more specific with which issues actually we’re trying to tackle.” -Lauren On this week’s show, Lauren shares a bit of background on her distinct way into the fashion industry, and how she found her way to working with Ganni. We talk about the brand’s resistance to labeling themselves as “sustainable”, how their 44 responsibility gameplay is driving them, and some of the ways they are working to creatively reduce their overproduction and waste, by adjusting their business model. Soil Association - their mission is to help everyone understand and explore the vital relationship between the health of soil, plants, animals and people. Lauren worked with them in the past. “Brands Are Claiming That They Are Not Sustainable. Here’s Why That’s A Good Thing”, Refinery29 article Kestrel mentions Open Apparel Registry, an open map of global apparel facilities Fair Wear Foundation, Ganni is working with a consultant to further explore what a living wage means throughout their supply chain Fashion On Climate Report by McKinsey x Global Fashion Agenda circular.fashion Ganni’s 2020 Responsibility Report Ganni Repeat, Ganni’s rental platform Ganni’s Responsibility page Follow Ganni Lab on Instagram > Follow Ganni on Instagram > This week's episode is brought to you by OEKO-TEX® - a worldwide association of 18 independent research and test institutes that sets standards for safer textile and leather production and products. The OEKO-TEX® portfolio of independent certifications and product labels help all of us make responsible decisions to choose products that are safer, more environmentally friendly, and manufactured in a socially responsible way. Learn more about their labels at www.oeko-tex.com.
58 minutes | Jun 8, 2021
S05 Episode 238 | Best friends Jazmine (@thatcurlytop) & Gabby (@gabrielasage) on reclaiming "influence" & finding balance as content creators and sustainable fashion advocates
In episode 238, Kestrel welcomes Jazmine Rogers (AKA @thatcurlytop) and Gabby Masuda Ambata (AKA @gabrielasage) to the show. A Black + Mexican creator, Jazmine is passionate about sustainable fashion and living, and sharing about it in a fun and graceful way. A Japanese American digital creator, Gabby is focused on sustainable fashion and lifestyle, and she’s also a mental health advocate. “I’m trying to reclaim the word influence because I think the word is so special and so powerful. Like I said earlier — it’s such an honor to be able to influence others to do things. Like with all things with capitalism, it just takes it and commodifies it, but I think we can go back to the definition of what influence is, which is to have an effect on others, and I want to be a positive influence and a good influence to encourage others to think new ways and try new things and be encouraged and be empowered.” -Jazmine On this week’s show, Jazmine and Gabby share more about how they first met in college, and how valuable their friendship has been in the process of navigating their individual growth in the “influencer” space, while advocating for people and the planet. We also explore the meaning of “influence”, whether or not Gabby and Jazmine identify as “influencers”, and some of the ways they are in favor of reclaiming the word to represent the work that they’re doing today. Jazmine and Gabby also share some of their thoughts on the complexities of growing your following amidst trauma. conversation with Diandra Marizet of Intersectional Environmentalist that Kestrel mentions conversation with Shakaila Forbes-Bell that Kestrel mentions Jazmine's YouTube channel Follow Jazmine on Instagram > Follow Jazmine on TikTok > Follow Gabby on Instagram > Follow Gabby on TikTok > This week's episode is brought to you by OEKO-TEX® - a worldwide association of 18 independent research and test institutes that sets standards for safer textile and leather production and products. The OEKO-TEX® portfolio of independent certifications and product labels help all of us make responsible decisions to choose products that are safer, more environmentally friendly, and manufactured in a socially responsible way. Learn more about their labels at www.oeko-tex.com.
37 minutes | Jun 1, 2021
S05 Episode 237 | OEKO-TEX®, green chemistry & navigating the nuances of product labels
On episode 237, Kestrel welcomes Ben Mead, the Managing Director of Hohenstein Institute USA, to the show. Hohenstein Institute USA is one of the founding members of the OEKO-TEX® Association, and Ben serves as the company’s liaison with government agencies, industry collaborations and trade associations. “Green chemistry has a kind of textbook definition around design of chemicals and processes really to help reduce or eliminate hazardous substances or the toxicity and those sort of hazard type characteristics — and so, I think that’s pretty well been defined by some of the organizations that really focus on green chemistry. I think one of the other things that’s important when we consider, or we do other work — is not only what goes into the actual chemical itself, but also how can that influence the impact of how it’s used as well.” -Ben Mead On this week’s show, Ben shares more on his background working in chemistry and textiles, and some of the work he does with OEKO-TEX® today. Also, he helps explains some of the origins of OEKO-TEX® as an association, and the key differences between their certifications — STANDARD 100, MADE IN GREEN, and STeP. Kestrel also asks Ben to specify some of the ways in which OEKO-TEX® holds themselves accountable, when it comes to the validity of their labels. Ben also walks us through the layers verified in their MADE IN GREEN label — including the way it can be traced using a unique product ID or QR code, to give shoppers access to additional detailed information about the supply chain of that product. MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX® STeP by OEKO-TEX® OEKO-TEX® Follow OEKO-TEX® on Instagram > This week's episode is brought to you by OEKO-TEX® - a worldwide association of 18 independent research and test institutes that sets standards for safer textile and leather production and products. The OEKO-TEX® portfolio of independent certifications and product labels help all of us make responsible decisions to choose products that are safer, more environmentally friendly, and manufactured in a socially responsible way. Learn more about their labels at www.oeko-tex.com.
51 minutes | May 25, 2021
S05 Episode 236 | Educator Emi Ito and Gina Stovall of Two Days Off on collaborating to honor a legacy & getting creative to infuse fashion with more accessibility, generosity and inclusivity
In episode 236, Kestrel welcomes Emi Ito, a Multiracial Japanese American mother and educator, as well as Gina Stovall, the founder of Two Days Off, to the show. Emi, @littlekotoscloset on Instagram, is the founder and co-moderator of Buy From BIPOC, and Gina was featured back on episode 224. The two recently came together on a collaborative collection — The Yoko Capsule — envisaged in the spirit of Emi's late mother. “I felt acutely my own mortality and the urgent need to leave something behind for my own child, that would also honor the creative legacy of my parents, and particularly — my mother. I come from a long line of creative, powerful women who brought beauty and art into the world.” -Emi Ito On this week’s show, Emi and Gina share more on what originally brought them together, and how their relationship developed into collaborating on a capsule collection. Emi walks us through what inspired her to reach out to Gina last year around her 40th birthday — a significant decade for Emi, the one in which she lost both her mother and father to AIDS. The two came together to build The Yoko Capsule — a 5-piece collection envisaged in the spirit of Emi's late mother — and not only does the collection honor Emi’s mother’s legacy, it also sets new standards for some of the ways sustainable fashion can be more generous, accessible, and inclusive. Emi and Gina share snapshots of some of the conversations they had throughout the development process, that eventually led to the integration of intentional initiatives, in alignment with these values. The Yoko Capsule The Community Fund, a program to harness the collective power of the Two Days Off community and make sustainable options more accessible. TDO customers and supporters can opt to contribute to the fund, which will be redistributed to other community members to help subsidize their Two Days Off purchase Redistribution of Funds, fifteen percent of the profits from this capsule will be redistributed to organizations that reflect the values Emi’s parents instilled in her Black Border’s Sliding Scale Policy, Gina and Emi mention this as inspiration for their Community Fund Leila Kelleher, collaborated with Emi and Gina to consult on the size expansion aspect of the collection Reading Rainbow “Paper Crane” — episode of the iconic children’s television series, in which Emi’s mother was featured; Emi was there for the recording as a child Emi’s Patreon > Follow Emi on Instagram > Follow Gina on Instagram > Follow Two Days Off on Instagram > This week's episode is brought to you by OEKO-TEX® - a worldwide association of 18 independent research and test institutes that sets standards for safer textile and leather production and products. The OEKO-TEX® portfolio of independent certifications and product labels help all of us make responsible decisions to choose products that are safer, more environmentally friendly, and manufactured in a socially responsible way. Learn more about their labels at www.oeko-tex.com.
58 minutes | May 18, 2021
S05 Episode 235 | Mikaela Clark of Hansel on balance in partnerships, welcoming the evolution of your creativity, and inclusivity in upcycling
In episode 235, Kestrel welcomes Mikaela Clark, a visual artist and designer, to the show. The founder of Hansel, Mikaela makes handpainted, upcycled apparel in Brooklyn, New York. “At the time, I was like hey, I’m gonna invite in whatever good is trying to worm its way into my life. And then, as we make these decisions, we grow, we learn, and we think — ok, how can I get even more nuanced, how can I make more decisions in the future that align even more with my personal ethos? What have I learned along the way that’s made me maybe want to shy away or maybe want to lean closer to the decisions I’ve made. It’s all a process and it just can’t be separated — it’s all intersectional, everything’s at play when we’re trying to have this discussion about ethical fashion.” -Mikaela Clark On this week’s show, Mikaela shares more on how she learned to sew from her mom at an early age, and how that nurtured her love of fashion and making clothing. After she pursued music in college, an infection led her to lose her ability to use her voice for a period of time — she started painting as an alternative creative outlet, and then eventually led her to painting garments. Kestrel and Mikaela also explore more about Hansel’s recent collaboration with Urban Renewal (a sub-sect of Urban Outfitters) called “Sacred Space”. Mikaela shares an array of thoughts around this partnership, the intentions she went into it with, how it has been meaningful for her and what she has learned from it. “I think since I first learned to sew, I always knew that I wanted to have a fashion brand at some point — music was always the first love, but fashion was just something that I was so passionate about … I used to sketch little clothing brands and I would name them after my grandmas.” -Mikaela “It’s really grown from being just a lot of word-of-mouth commissions to being these larger bodies of work that really help carry me through tough seasons of life.” -Mikaela “I’m one of three sisters — we’re all different shapes and sizes and colors and all beautiful in our own way, and I didn’t feel comfortable making clothes that my sisters couldn’t wear … it’s about the long game, it’s about figuring out what your process is as you go, and doing what you can to hold that intention close to your heart, until you’re in a place where you’re able to really execute on it and make it reality.” -Mikaela “There are a lot of things that go into pricing, and I think having that bubble burst for a moment — it didn’t make me want to change anything that I do, but it just made me want to communicate mores the purpose and passion behind why I do what I do.” -Mikaela “I can’t separate my Blackness from how I approach my decisions either. And when I’m thinking about the lesser opportunities that Black people, and then more specifically Black women, and then even more specifically dark-skinned really kinky-haired Black women get to share their art, and to have backing put behind them and to be supported in that way, I mean — the landscape’s so different, it’s not an easy black and white discussion, and so for me, it was very like — I wanna be able to say my piece, I want to be able to put my work in front of people and stand proudly behind it, and in front of more eyes than I’ve been able to in the past. I also want to be able to pay my rent, you know, it’s been a hard year.” -Mikaela “We have to be willing to discuss how the human experience is so much more nuanced than just — this is good, this is bad, and you gotta be on either side of the aisle or you’re wrong. It’s: we’re all human, we all need to do better, and the ways we’re gonna dismantle the system are by changing the way we approach consumption, being more mindful to reuse the things in our lives, but also being patient with ourselves as we slowly make that transition.” -Mikaela Hansel website Follow Mikaela on Instagram > Follow Hansel on Instagram > This week's episode is brought to you by OEKO-TEX® - a worldwide association of 18 independent research and test institutes that sets standards for safer textile and leather production and products. The OEKO-TEX® portfolio of independent certifications and product labels help all of us make responsible decisions to choose products that are safer, more environmentally friendly, and manufactured in a socially responsible way. Learn more about their labels at www.oeko-tex.com.
50 minutes | May 11, 2021
S05 Episode 234 | Rethinking upcycling, questioning trends & reimagining what "seasons" mean
In episode 234, Kestrel welcomes Lottie Bertello, the founder and creative director at LOTI, to the show. An upcycling design studio recently launched in 2021, LOTI reuses materials that would otherwise end up in landfills. “We’re gonna be really vocal with our platform to show people that we don’t need to be following these trends. I think trends is what has pushed this overconsumption in massive amounts. And there’s the misconception that trends are the only fun clothes you can use — like trendy clothes equal fun and sustainable clothes equal boring, which is absolutely not the case at all.” -Lottie Bertello On this week’s show, Lottie shares more of her experience working within the conventional fashion industry, and how for her, that made her realize that building her own project was where she could make the most positive impact. Lottie highlights some amazing stories from the beginnings of building the brand — one day, she was browsing the racks at a Goodwill, and she ended up buying 300 men’s button up shirts, without having a plan as to how to use them. Those shirts became the first building blocks of what LOTI has become today. Also, Kestrel and Lottie also explore some of the nuances around “trends” and where they fit into the sustainability and fashion movement. “I think developing our aesthetic was the most challenging part of developing LOTI because as much as our brand stands for textile waste reduction and ethical manufacturing, we have nothing without a good product that people like — it’s unsustainable for us to sell a product based on the fact that it’s quote unquote sustainable. You know, if you don’t love it, then you’re not going to wear it, and if you’re not wearing it, you might be throwing it out, and that’s not the point.” -Lottie “Ultimately — trends are what make clothing be disposable, because once a trend is gone, people are no longer wearing that, and then that garment doesn’t have a space in your closet anymore. I think there is a distinct difference between relevant items and trendy items.” -Lottie LOTI’s website Follow Lottie on Instagram > Follow LOTI on Instagram > This week's episode is brought to you by OEKO-TEX® - a worldwide association of 18 independent research and test institutes that sets standards for safer textile and leather production and products. The OEKO-TEX® portfolio of independent certifications and product labels help all of us make responsible decisions to choose products that are safer, more environmentally friendly, and manufactured in a socially responsible way. Learn more about their labels at www.oeko-tex.com.
43 minutes | May 4, 2021
S05 Episode 233 | Katherine Theobalds of Zou Xou on sensible shoes and resisting mindless consumption & markdowns
In episode 233, Kestrel welcomes Katherine Theobalds, the founder and creative director at Zou Xou, to the show. A slow fashion footwear brand, Zou Xou shoes are made in Buenos Aires, Argentina. “I like using the word sensible to describe our shoes because it kind of challenges the common assumption of what sensible shoes mean. I don’t mean that they’re boring, I don’t mean that they’re not exciting, and I don’t mean that they can’t express your style. To me, the sensibility aspect of it speaks to the practicality of it and how often you’re using it, and the versatility of it in your wardrobe.” -Katherine Theobalds On this week’s show, Katherine shares more on how an array of circumstances led her to build out Zou Xou. Also, she explains some of the ways she and her team have had to get extra creative in their business throughout COVID-19. Katherine also dives into more of what sensible shoes mean to her, and why she thinks this is an important way to build products — and in her case, shoes that you will build deep relationships with. Two Days Off, Kestrel and Katherine mention Gina and her brand — listen to the Conscious Chatter episode with Two Days Off here > “The last thing we want to do is promote mindless consumption — we don’t want someone to buy something because it’s inexpensive — we want them to buy it because they really love it and they’re going to wear it … you know, I am a reformed fast fashion shopper — I remember the times I would buy things just because they were on sale, not even because I liked it that much. And so that kind of affects our decision to not do too many markdowns as well — if we’re only producing what we’re sure we’ll sell, there’s no need to mark things down to get rid of them.” -Katherine Li Edelkoort, Katherine mentions her work as a trend forecaster and with “new materialism” Zou Xou Spring Collection Guide > Who Makes Zou Xou’s shoes > About Zou Xou > Follow Zou Xou on Instagram > This week's episode is brought to you by OEKO-TEX® - a worldwide association of 18 independent research and test institutes that sets standards for safer textile and leather production and products. The OEKO-TEX® portfolio of independent certifications and product labels help all of us make responsible decisions to choose products that are safer, more environmentally friendly, and manufactured in a socially responsible way. Learn more about their labels at www.oeko-tex.com.
47 minutes | Apr 27, 2021
S05 Episode 232 | Kara Fabella on the nuances of "influence" today, splashing color across ethical fashion + her Living In COLOR(ISM) series
In episode 232, Kestrel welcomes Kara Fabella, an ethical fashion advocate, digital creator and stylist, to the show. Known as @theFlippside on Instagram, her Living In Color(ism) series on IGTV features discussions where she passes the mic to guests to share their experiences with colorism. On this week’s show, Kara shares more on her past explorations in blogging, and what led her to begin shifting the relationship she was building with her wardrobe. She also shares more on what influence means to her, how she vets the brands she works with, and some of the nuanced challenges that come with being a digital creator in the sustainable fashion space. Additionally, Kara shares more on the intentions behind her Living In COLOR(ISM) series, and how she’s consciously building out her ethical styling services. Aditi Mayer, mentioned when it comes to the way she leverages her paid partnerships as an educational opportunity Alder Apparel, brand Kara mentions Living In COLOR(ISM) episode that Kara mentions with @mayetteraisa “We need to heal from within to tackle anti-Blackness, discrimination and white supremacy, and the colonization that happened within each of these communities — I hope that I continue to have these conversations so that there is a space for people to talk about this, and in turn, for them to have conversations with their family members and with their peers, because it just needs to be talked about basically.” -Kara on her Living in COLOR(ISM) series Conscious Creator feature, includes photos from Consciously’s Earth Day 2021 shoot that Kara styled Follow Kara on Instagram > Follow Living In COLOR(ISM) on Instagram >
45 minutes | Apr 20, 2021
S05 Episode 231 | GOODS & SERVICES ON MODERN SHOE REPAIR + REFRAMING OUR UNDERSTANDING OF THE SNEAKER LIFESPAN — AKA SNEAKER REPAIR IS POSSIBLE!
In episode 231, Kestrel welcomes Lauren Tanaka-Fortune and Rory Fortune, the cofounders of Goods & Services, to the show. A modern repair shop in Los Angeles, Goods & Services specializes in sneaker repair. “I think we just have to start changing our mentality around consumption and buy things that you really love and can potentially pass down one day. I think that when you buy things that are made better, you can wear them longer — I mean, eventually they’ll be a cool vintage piece, right? We just need to get away from this need for ‘more, more more’ and get back to sort of the olden days of really buying something that you love and wearing it forever.” -Lauren Tanaka-Fortune, Co-Owner of Goods & Services On this week’s show, Rory and Lauren each share their unique experience, working within the conventional fashion industry, and what “aha moment” led them to want to reassess the way they were working in fashion. Rory explains a bit more on what led him down the path of learning more about shoe repair, and how that led he and Lauren to open their own repair shop in 2019. While Goods & Services offers repair for all shoe types, they specialize in sneaker repair. Rory and Lauren explain why they think we are not typically taught that our sneakers can be repaired, and how, through their custom resole process, they can set your sneakers up for years and years of future repair. Global Garbs, Lauren’s sustainable fashion magazine “Sneaker Drops Keep Coming. Are They Sustainable?” in Vogue Business Goods & Services YouTube Follow Goods & Services on Instagram > Follow Global Garbs on Instagram >
48 minutes | Apr 13, 2021
S05 Episode 230 | KIANA KAZEMI ON THE OPPRESSIVE HISTORY OF ENGINEERING + TECH, THE NEED TO REFRAME THE "PROBLEMS" ENGINEERS ARE TRYING TO FIX, AND WHAT THIS HAS TO DO WITH FASHION
In episode 230, Kestrel welcomes Kiana Kazemi, a current undergraduate student at UC Berkeley, studying the intersections of technology and environmental justice, to the show. The Editor in Chief of the campus environmental publication The Leaflet and the Digital and Community Operations Coordinator at Intersectional Environmentalist, Kiana is also the Co-Founder and CEO of Circularity, a soon-to-launch multi-medium environmental justice platform. “Climate change is a huge problem that we’re facing, but it’s really the symptom of capitalism, of the patriarchy, of so many other systems that have bigger histories and have been in place for such a long time. And so, if as engineers, we’re only taught to tackle those surface-level symptoms, we’re not tackling the wider systems, which is what we need to be tackling. ” -Kiana Kazemi, Intersectional Engineer On this week’s show, Kiana shares more on her backstory, what led her to pursue engineering, and what being an “intersectional engineer” means to her. Also, she helps provide some historical context on the ways in which engineering has and continues to perpetuate systemic injustices. For Kiana, community engineering is important for a more equitable future — she shares more on what this means to her, and how it can be more effectively integrated into practice for the engineering and tech industries. Of course technology perpetuates racism. It was designed that way. by Charlton McIlwain in the MIT Technology Review Khalid Kadir, professor Kiana mentions “Because engineering is often about innovation and about the future, we’re never told to study the past or even the current systems — it’s always about create, create, create more, innovate more and think about the future. But again, if we don’t take into account that context and that history, then we’re just going to perpetuate those same problems over and over again.” -Kiana Why intersectional environmental pedagogy belongs in all fields by Kiana Kazemi Engineering x Social Justice Conversation with Kiana Kazemi and Diandra Marizet Co-Founder of Circularity (launching soon!) Tech Community Leader at Intersectional Environmentalist Slow Factory Foundation, founded by Céline Semaan Follow Kiana on Instagram >
Terms of Service
Do Not Sell My Personal Information
© Stitcher 2021