The TrainingBeta Podcast | A Rock Climbing Podcast
About This Show
Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a regular conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.
Most Recent Episode
TBP 073 :: Margarita Martinez on Climbing Her First 13d at Age 58
About Margarita Martinez My first experience of Margarita Martinez was at the Red River Gorge, watching her dance her way up Bohica 5.13b. She ended up falling on it, but I remember her laughing as she fell, and then talking to her later she was as chipper as could be. In this interview, that positive outlook on life and climbing is very apparent. Margarita is originally from Puerto Rico, but moved her in her late teens to be a ballerina, which she did for over a decade. She had to quit dancing because she could no longer travel and raise 3 children. She wanted something to fill the dancing void in her life, and at the age of 34 she found climbing. Since then, she's suffered several heartbreaking injuries and surgeries (broken back, broken ankle, and most recently a serious shoulder issue), but she's persevered and steadily climbed through the grades. Last year, at the age of 58, she sent her first 5.13d in Maple Canyon and has not slowed down since. That was after she was told by a surgeon that she needed to have a shoulder replacement and quit climbing forever. Our good friend, Esther Smith (the PT who's been on the show a couple times) helped her fix her shoulder, and she's now climbing and training harder than ever. Margarita Martinez Interview Details In this interview, Margarita talks about her evolution as a climber, how she trains, and how she does things differently now that she's a little bit older. What We Talked About Training for first 13d at age 58 How she deals with having rheumatoid arthritis How she approaches climbing and training at age 58 What the MaxiPull is and how it helps her endurance Why she weight lifts and what she does Her training/climbing schedule Margarita Martinez Links Margarita's article "15 Truths About Being A Climber" How to Make A Maxi Pull - from Margarita's Facebook page Esther Smith's article on how to Hang Just Right
Rated 5 out of
Not just training - Best climber interviews too
This podcast is interview-based with a focus on training, but is filled with fascinating information on the lives of adventure of professional climbers. This show is filled with world class guests. They share some deeply personal information about themselves and provide invaluable advice for other climbers.
The host is extremely well prepared. She asks relevant questions, specific questions that go deep. She channels her inner Terry Gross and asks hard questions, even uncomfortable ones, but in a way that doesn't seem too offensive. This makes a one hour interview fly by.
This podcast is for all climbers. Beginners who want to improve their training methods, advanced climbers who want to improve their mental game, and just anyone who is interested in the world of professional climbing athletes.
Date published: 2016-03-14